Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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#1066
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Back from the race, the car was great, but as usual it took me a while to learn the track. I qual'ed 4th which is my best result in a long while, usually I make the bottom of the A or the top of the B, but this time I had a bit more luck than usual... until the mains. I broke in the first one (FHS3x6 went out on rear block grrr) and got taken out in the first lap in 2nd one and had to start from dead last, I could climb back to 6th or 7th but not any further.
The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at
Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?
Thanks!
Paul
The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at
Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?
Thanks!
Paul
Jonathan
#1067
Back from the race, the car was great, but as usual it took me a while to learn the track. I qual'ed 4th which is my best result in a long while, usually I make the bottom of the A or the top of the B, but this time I had a bit more luck than usual... until the mains. I broke in the first one (FHS3x6 went out on rear block grrr) and got taken out in the first lap in 2nd one and had to start from dead last, I could climb back to 6th or 7th but not any further.
The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at
Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?
Thanks!
Paul
The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at
Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?
Thanks!
Paul
It's much thinner at 0.9mm.
Part #326180
They are shipping now from Xray
Bent
#1068
Schumacher Mini Pin 1 Yellow rear with Schumacher Medium Blue foam.
Cut inner and outer row of pins on rear tire.
JConcepts carpet and astro tires will be out soon
Bent
#1069
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...on-and-details
#1070
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.
Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...
Thanks,
Paul
Last edited by Lonestar; 01-18-2016 at 01:08 PM.
#1072
Finally my XB2 is built. This weekend will be the first run. I am using Malin DHI Cup - Odense Carpet Setup as a starting point.
Overall XB2 noticeably lighter than my RB6, just judging by feel. On medium grip astro how necessary is it to add the 50 grams of weight? What should I expect from the XB2 being a little lighter?
Overall XB2 noticeably lighter than my RB6, just judging by feel. On medium grip astro how necessary is it to add the 50 grams of weight? What should I expect from the XB2 being a little lighter?
#1073
Thanks Bent. Couldn't find it yet. Any idea what alloy it's made of? I assume some kind of unobtainium Given that I want to buy a pair of ECS, I might be already broke soon anyway On a more serious note, even a 1mm plate wouldn't fit without a mod, the brace is a tight fit... how do you guys do it?
Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.
Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...
Thanks,
Paul
Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.
Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...
Thanks,
Paul
It fits with no modifications.
The entire team has been running them for a while now.
Bent
#1074
#1075
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Thanks Bent. Couldn't find it yet. Any idea what alloy it's made of? I assume some kind of unobtainium Given that I want to buy a pair of ECS, I might be already broke soon anyway On a more serious note, even a 1mm plate wouldn't fit without a mod, the brace is a tight fit... how do you guys do it?
Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.
Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...
Thanks,
Paul
Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.
Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...
Thanks,
Paul
Yep gotta 02 bugeye haha I love Subaru's. I contacted mckune about making a weight that covers the entire tray. I'm just gunna wait impatiently for the Xray weight to show up at RCAmerica.
#1076
is there a list of part numbers anywhere for the difference between the dirt and carpet editions?
was thinking of getting them to be able to switch back and forth, but it its super expensive, i might just get the dirt as well...and throw in a gear diff ( I dont like ball diffs)
was thinking of getting them to be able to switch back and forth, but it its super expensive, i might just get the dirt as well...and throw in a gear diff ( I dont like ball diffs)
#1079
Tech Rookie
My standard size Orion 4500 shorty(ori14066) have close to zero gap to the battery brace.
If the foam strips are removed from chassis I measure 0,8-0,9mm gap.
You don't want the battery brace to be in contact/pressing on the battery, as that would affect the stiffness of the chassis.
I use a 40g steel block(approx. 40x10x4mm) in front of the battery (battery currently in rear pos).
Best Regards
Morgan
If the foam strips are removed from chassis I measure 0,8-0,9mm gap.
You don't want the battery brace to be in contact/pressing on the battery, as that would affect the stiffness of the chassis.
I use a 40g steel block(approx. 40x10x4mm) in front of the battery (battery currently in rear pos).
Best Regards
Morgan
#1080
My standard size Orion 4500 shorty(ori14066) have close to zero gap to the battery brace.
If the foam strips are removed from chassis I measure 0,8-0,9mm gap.
You don't want the battery brace to be in contact/pressing on the battery, as that would affect the stiffness of the chassis.
I use a 40g steel block(approx. 40x10x4mm) in front of the battery (battery currently in rear pos).
Best Regards
Morgan
If the foam strips are removed from chassis I measure 0,8-0,9mm gap.
You don't want the battery brace to be in contact/pressing on the battery, as that would affect the stiffness of the chassis.
I use a 40g steel block(approx. 40x10x4mm) in front of the battery (battery currently in rear pos).
Best Regards
Morgan
We go the opposite way of your suggestion and add foam strips under the carbon battery brace to ensure it clamps securely on the battery and then add an adjustable turnbuckle connected to the battery brace and the "waterfall" to further stiffen the chassis lengthwise and create more equal flex.
When doing so we also remove the flex screws from the waterfall under the chassis.
This works really good for us
Bent