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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-10-2016, 11:54 AM   #1381
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
And you must be a much better driver than all of us on the team. For the past 2 years with 20-30 prototypes and pre-production cars running full time on the track we've not broken a single hinge pin holder but tons of suspension arms, uprights, front chassis upper and lower parts, bent hinge pins and broken hinge pin inserts.
oh my.
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Old 02-10-2016, 12:42 PM   #1382
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I'm going to try the ae slipper today if ups stops messing up my shipment. It's supposed to be that you enlarge the hole a bit and then use the ae slipper pads on the gear and 1 xray slipper on the outside like it normally is.
i used 2 different drill bits.. mainly because its such a huge difference in the hole.. did it on a drill press with a feeler to get it as close to centered as possible..

used a smaller bit.. then used a 9.87 drill bit.. and its a tight fit..

4 AE slipper pads.. 2 on one side.. then 2 on the other side.. got rid of the middle Xray plate for this.
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Old 02-10-2016, 12:47 PM   #1383
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
oh my.
As a response to the team not doing real world testing and missing feedback from real use.

We've broken tons of parts and never have it been a hinge pin holder that broke.

But we have seen several break after screws coming loose and applying stress to the part over time.

Hence the advice to use Loctite on the screws to keep it from happening.

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Old 02-10-2016, 12:50 PM   #1384
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So I have a trivial question as I wait for the 19th; Has anyone tried dying the wheels that come with the kit? Back in the day the old nylon wheels took to clothing dye really well, but not sure what plastic is used these days.

Also, anyone know what springs the dirt version will come with? I usually like to prepare with a set softer and firmer than stock before I hit the track.
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Old 02-10-2016, 12:54 PM   #1385
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here is something i would like to add to all this in the forum..

Bent is not Xray.. his daughter is sponsored by Xray.. he is support.. like.. setup.. tips.. tricks.. stuff like that.. basically a middle man.. its not his fault the car has weak spots.. they cant test for everything.. attacking him does nothing.. except put him on the defensive..

i understand everyones frustrations.. but.. to attack one person for it.. because he is vocal support on the forums.. or the groups.. is not a good idea.. its rare that there is this kind of support #1, and #2, he could just not reply.. or not support.. and not say anything..

i mean.. if the parts are faulty.. im sure it has been brought up to the correct people.. but Bent isnt employed by Xray.. he is on the Factory Team.. he has input.. and thats it. he can give ideas.. and suggestions.. its the design teams final say..

just like the slipper eliminator.. he found out quickly how many US drivers use a smaller spur.. and stock motors.. which.. is not the norm to him.. so.. he took it to Xray.. as an idea.. thats all he can do..

blasting him on forums.. for supporting a product he believes in.. and uses.. is in my mind.. useless..

you can only complain so many times.. let it be.. im sure he has mentioned it to Xray.. but lets get over this.. and move on.. Bent has help many people on this thread.. and the groups.. and his knowledge is helpful.. may not be for everyone.. but.. cmon..
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:10 PM   #1386
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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
So I have a trivial question as I wait for the 19th; Has anyone tried dying the wheels that come with the kit? Back in the day the old nylon wheels took to clothing dye really well, but not sure what plastic is used these days.

Also, anyone know what springs the dirt version will come with? I usually like to prepare with a set softer and firmer than stock before I hit the track.
Dirt Edition will come with 1 dot springs front and rear as standard kit setup

Bent
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:15 PM   #1387
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Dirt Edition will come with 1 dot springs front and rear as standard kit setup

Bent
Thanks Bent. Happen to have a spring chart handy? I've been looking for one, but only finding things in "C" ratings. Sorry for all the newb questions, trying to update my old timey knowledge.
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:21 PM   #1388
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Thanks Bent. Happen to have a spring chart handy? I've been looking for one, but only finding things in "C" ratings. Sorry for all the newb questions, trying to update my old timey knowledge.
the C rating.. is is N/mm. which 1N/mm = 5.71014716277in-lbs.
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:27 PM   #1389
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the C rating.. is is N/mm. which 1N/mm = 5.71014716277in-lbs.
Thanks for the explanation Daniel. So what C rating would a 1 dot spring have?
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:44 PM   #1390
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
used a smaller bit.. then used a 9.87 drill bit.. and its a tight fit..
Curious what kind of store would have a 9.87 drill bit? Not sure what the actual purpose of such a specific bit would be other than for making an AE spur gear fit on an XB2!
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:48 PM   #1391
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Curious what kind of store would have a 9.87 drill bit? Not sure what the actual purpose of such a specific bit would be other than for making an AE spur gear fit on an XB2!
haha.. i knew that was going to happen.. it was a standard drill bit.. that i used a caliper to find the metric size.. i used the drill bit that was closest to 10mm.. i will get you a standard size i used if you wish..
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:49 PM   #1392
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Thanks for the explanation Daniel. So what C rating would a 1 dot spring have?
that sir.. i do not know.. sorry
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Old 02-10-2016, 04:00 PM   #1393
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Here's a closer picture.
It's a plausible theory that a loose screw can cause the issue. However, it would need to be scenario where only one screw was loose, and the other tight. The concept is the loose screw extends past the chassis and pushes up on the hanger whenever the chassis slaps. That would turn the hanger into a class 1 lever, with the fulcrum (I totally dig that I get to use that word twice on this thread) being the location where the other tight screw fastens the hanger to the chassis.

On the opposite side of the tight screw a downward force would be applied, with greater force than that being pushed up (because of the lever), and would cause the break there at the point where the tight screw secures the hanger to the chassis.

So in theory the side opposite the loose screw side should break. I even drew a picture. =)

If both are loose, it would simply cause the hanger to push up with downward force that the hanger is designed to support (as applied from downward force of the car as it lands, applied to the carrier via the hinge pin).

Of course this doesn't take into consideration the screw heads digging into the carpet or dirt and jamming the screw backwards/hanger forward. But you'd have to have a screw sticking pretty far out, and have a bent screw with carpet fibers strung/dirt embedded into it.

I'd personally chalk this up to needing more material on the hanger, or perhaps a high impact from a previous crash that cracked it unknowingly (which more material would probably prevent).

All that said, I'm just bored at work and still waiting for my Dirt Edition car. Excuse my mind numbing interpretation of physics.
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Old 02-10-2016, 04:21 PM   #1394
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Thanks for the explanation Daniel. So what C rating would a 1 dot spring have?
I have a GForce spring gauge which provides N/CM ratings at 1CM compression. I'll measure my springs once I have them and post it up. If anyone wants to send me some XRAY samples I can measure those and return them once done.

I've measured my line of Serpent and Associated springs, and have been borrowing various springs from Kyo and TLR guys at the track to measure those. I don't know how accurate the scale is in terms of how the N/CM values might line up with more expensive tools, but what it does is give me a good chart of how each spring stacks up against each other. I'll share that when I'm done as well. The PetitRC data seems to have a mix of actual/measured spring rates mixed in with manufacturer claims of what the spring rate should be. That isn't always accurate. It's always nice to know what a comparable spring rate is compared to another brand. Serpent guys run Serpent or AE, the AE and TLR guys always seem to toss on Kyosho springs. I like to stick with the cheaper AE/TLR springs, so that's why I started my little project (so I emulate a setup easier).

XRAY drivers seems to stick with XRAY, which I find comforting.
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:30 PM   #1395
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
It's a plausible theory that a loose screw can cause the issue. However, it would need to be scenario where only one screw was loose, and the other tight. The concept is the loose screw extends past the chassis and pushes up on the hanger whenever the chassis slaps. That would turn the hanger into a class 1 lever, with the fulcrum (I totally dig that I get to use that word twice on this thread) being the location where the other tight screw fastens the hanger to the chassis.

On the opposite side of the tight screw a downward force would be applied, with greater force than that being pushed up (because of the lever), and would cause the break there at the point where the tight screw secures the hanger to the chassis.

So in theory the side opposite the loose screw side should break. I even drew a picture. =)

If both are loose, it would simply cause the hanger to push up with downward force that the hanger is designed to support (as applied from downward force of the car as it lands, applied to the carrier via the hinge pin).

Of course this doesn't take into consideration the screw heads digging into the carpet or dirt and jamming the screw backwards/hanger forward. But you'd have to have a screw sticking pretty far out, and have a bent screw with carpet fibers strung/dirt embedded into it.

I'd personally chalk this up to needing more material on the hanger, or perhaps a high impact from a previous crash that cracked it unknowingly (which more material would probably prevent).

All that said, I'm just bored at work and still waiting for my Dirt Edition car. Excuse my mind numbing interpretation of physics.
That's pretty cool I enjoy looking at that picture now haha. Both those hanger screws where always tight and regularly checked and also ran with a chassis protector. It's just crazy that I was literally going down a straight away when it broke. A few pro's also looked at the car and all said it looks like a weak design and should be reinforced better. The car is amazing though and it is the fastest and easiest to drive 2wd buggy I have ever owned.
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