R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Like Tree23Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-09-2016, 01:35 PM   #1351
Tech Master
 
suby723's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Spring Hill Tennessee
Posts: 1,377
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
That was not caused by not using loctite. If you don't use loctite, the screw will back itself out (always use some when threading into alu). BUt break like that? Looks like defective material. I've seen COUNTLESS buggies with alu suspension holders running around the track, including novices crashing and burning like nobodies business, and have never see a piece like this break.
I know! I Braught this up with Bent but he just pulled a jerk move and said it was my fault for not using loctite. I'm glad others think this issue is also clearly a weak point. I am a local club expert level driver, I have never broke a part minus this on the xb2. Bottom line is that this should be a part that should not break. Rc America made things right and is replacing the part for a discounted rate but now I am also going to carry a backup rr hanger.
suby723 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 01:57 PM   #1352
Tech Adept
 
avaldes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 165
Default

Deploying a product to the consumer will expose weaknesses that the design team had not considered. It happens to every product. I am constantly amazed at ways the users find to break the systems that I design. It is because engineers and users think a little differently and operate things differently.

It shouldn't be hard for Xray to trace the root cause of this issue. Be it a poor lot of raw material, an actual defect in the part, or a design without enough margin. I'm sure they will do the right thing.
avaldes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 02:45 PM   #1353
Tech Master
 
suby723's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Spring Hill Tennessee
Posts: 1,377
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Deploying a product to the consumer will expose weaknesses that the design team had not considered. It happens to every product. I am constantly amazed at ways the users find to break the systems that I design. It is because engineers and users think a little differently and operate things differently.

It shouldn't be hard for Xray to trace the root cause of this issue. Be it a poor lot of raw material, an actual defect in the part, or a design without enough margin. I'm sure they will do the right thing.
I sure hope they keep an open mind about it and get to the bottom of the issue instead of just pointing the finger back at us. I follow the xb2 group on fb closely and I have seen at least 10 people break them. All said the exact same.. Had no idea why it broke and never once happened during a crash.
suby723 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 02:49 PM   #1354
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,083
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I sure hope they keep an open mind about it and get to the bottom of the issue instead of just pointing the finger back at us. I follow the xb2 group on fb closely and I have seen at least 10 people break them. All said the exact same.. Had no idea why it broke and never once happened during a crash.
That would certainly point towards there being a materials or engineering issue. And selling you another part at "a reduced rate" would be inappropriate. We will see what I get when I start running the car (dirt). I ran my B5m for almost 2 years and didn't break one-single-part. I would imagine that the Xray would be even MORE durable.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 05:51 PM   #1355
Tech Elite
 
yodace's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Caleb
Posts: 2,470
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Sorry if this was covered before but to run the ae wheels. I need the 7mm hex front and 9mm hex rear?
yodace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 07:21 PM   #1356
Tech Elite
 
JEFFs SC10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Orlandooooo, Fl
Posts: 3,787
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

anyone know where I can find the orig edition that comes with the ball diff?
__________________
XRAY 2017 T4
CRC Gen X SE- 17.5 GT
Xray X12-17' GT12
support your local tracks- Beachline Raceway-386-Full Throttle Raceway
JEFFs SC10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 07:38 PM   #1357
Tech Master
 
suby723's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Spring Hill Tennessee
Posts: 1,377
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
anyone know where I can find the orig edition that comes with the ball diff?
Those are long gone. The first batch came with a gear diff and ball diff.
suby723 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 10:59 PM   #1358
Tech Master
 
BentKa's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,348
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I know! I Braught this up with Bent but he just pulled a jerk move and said it was my fault for not using loctite. I'm glad others think this issue is also clearly a weak point. I am a local club expert level driver, I have never broke a part minus this on the xb2. Bottom line is that this should be a part that should not break. Rc America made things right and is replacing the part for a discounted rate but now I am also going to carry a backup rr hanger.
Jerk move ? All I did was post a similar image to what you posted showing our screw with clear Loctite residue. I find it odd that when you post your picture it's perfectly fine and when I remove one from our XB2 to show it's described as a jerk move

And you must be a much better driver than all of us on the team. For the past 2 years with 20-30 prototypes and pre-production cars running full time on the track we've not broken a single hinge pin holder but tons of suspension arms, uprights, front chassis upper and lower parts, bent hinge pins and broken hinge pin inserts.

And we still break parts on the production cars we are running now

Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Deploying a product to the consumer will expose weaknesses that the design team had not considered. It happens to every product. I am constantly amazed at ways the users find to break the systems that I design. It is because engineers and users think a little differently and operate things differently.

It shouldn't be hard for Xray to trace the root cause of this issue. Be it a poor lot of raw material, an actual defect in the part, or a design without enough margin. I'm sure they will do the right thing.
Xray representatives watch both the threads on here and the groups on Facebook.

And I also report back on finds and issues.

Jusy like this issue have been discussed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I sure hope they keep an open mind about it and get to the bottom of the issue instead of just pointing the finger back at us. I follow the xb2 group on fb closely and I have seen at least 10 people break them. All said the exact same.. Had no idea why it broke and never once happened during a crash.
I fully understand you are disappointed you have broken a part on your new XB2 but making up numbers to back up your case doesn't really make it look any better.

I'm the one administrating the groups on Facebook and including your issue we've had 4 in total, not 10.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
That would certainly point towards there being a materials or engineering issue. And selling you another part at "a reduced rate" would be inappropriate. We will see what I get when I start running the car (dirt). I ran my B5m for almost 2 years and didn't break one-single-part. I would imagine that the Xray would be even MORE durable.
The cause of the fracture has been identified as the screw coming loose when not using Loctite which will cause stress to the part each time you land and your chassis bottoms out pushing on the loose screw.

The solution is to use Loctite on the screws to make sure they don't come loose and protrude through the chassis.

However I'm not saying that for a future release there could be a revised version of the hinge pin holder to make it withstand the stress from a screw coming loose.

But for the moment the solution is to use Loctite to make sure they stay in place.

Bent
__________________
Xray XB4 | Xray XB2 | Xray XT2 | Xray XB8 | Xray XB8E | Xray T4 | Xray X12
Factory Team driver for:
XRAY | ORCA | JConcepts | FX-Engines | Hudy | G-Force | Maxima Fuel | Hiro Seiko
DubiDesign | Maugrafix | YeahRacing | rcMart | IB Prostart
Follow Malin on Facebook for race reports and setup tips
BentKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 11:01 PM   #1359
Tech Master
 
BentKa's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,348
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
anyone know where I can find the orig edition that comes with the ball diff?
Only the very first batch of XB2 that was shipped to RC America included both the ball and gear diff.

I would imagine these are sold out by now.

Bent
__________________
Xray XB4 | Xray XB2 | Xray XT2 | Xray XB8 | Xray XB8E | Xray T4 | Xray X12
Factory Team driver for:
XRAY | ORCA | JConcepts | FX-Engines | Hudy | G-Force | Maxima Fuel | Hiro Seiko
DubiDesign | Maugrafix | YeahRacing | rcMart | IB Prostart
Follow Malin on Facebook for race reports and setup tips
BentKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 11:05 PM   #1360
Tech Master
 
BentKa's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,348
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvel View Post
Just backtracking a little here, in regards to rear shock placement. Would it be best to run shocks in front of rear arms with less droop to compensate for arm angle on high bite carpet. Hopefully Bent can clarify.
Running the shocks in front gives you a more agile car and better rotation through corners.

Running the shocks on the rear will give you less rotation and calm it down some as well as provide a bit better bump handling over small bumps/ripples (provided you add back the lost droop by unscrewing the shock rod ends 2-3 turns).

On high bite we always run the shocks to the front for better rotation in corners

Bent
__________________
Xray XB4 | Xray XB2 | Xray XT2 | Xray XB8 | Xray XB8E | Xray T4 | Xray X12
Factory Team driver for:
XRAY | ORCA | JConcepts | FX-Engines | Hudy | G-Force | Maxima Fuel | Hiro Seiko
DubiDesign | Maugrafix | YeahRacing | rcMart | IB Prostart
Follow Malin on Facebook for race reports and setup tips
BentKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2016, 04:16 AM   #1361
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 8
Default hinge pin brace

At the last race in France, 2 friends of me broke the rear hing pin brace like suby.
boysdontcry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2016, 05:47 AM   #1362
Tech Master
 
BentKa's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,348
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by boysdontcry View Post
At the last race in France, 2 friends of me broke the rear hing pin brace like suby.
Okay, have them contact the store where they bought them or their national distributor.

Bent
BentKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2016, 05:59 AM   #1363
Tech Elite
 
yodace's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Caleb
Posts: 2,470
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Sorry if this was covered before but to run the ae wheels. I need the 7mm hex front and 9mm
yodace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2016, 06:14 AM   #1364
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 941
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

AE along with most cars use 12mm hex front and rear, some deviate with option adatpers of various sizes, but still include 12mm in their kits
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2016, 06:22 AM   #1365
Tech Master
 
suby723's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Spring Hill Tennessee
Posts: 1,377
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by boysdontcry View Post
At the last race in France, 2 friends of me broke the rear hing pin brace like suby.
Conspiracy!
Attached Thumbnails
Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-image.jpeg  
suby723 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (2 members and 2 guests)
PCRANMER
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:47 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net