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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-05-2016, 03:53 PM   #1321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyT. View Post

I really want to hear X-Rays logic to this, because they are saying the opposite of what everyone is finding.
its a mistake on their part for listing it that way. pretty sure the people in the marketing department aren't all racers :-)
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:06 PM   #1322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Question regarding the ball differential: is this using 1/8 diff balls? I tried to look at some replacement parts, and only see full diff sets and the diff gear so I couldn't tell. I counted the openings in the diff gear and see 12, so it leads me to believe they're 1/8 balls - which I think is a great thing. I love how the diffs build and last on my SRX2 which also uses 1/8 balls.
I'm sure they are 2.4mm balls. That is what is used in the XB4 ball diff.

#930220
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:52 AM   #1323
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12 2.4 diff balls.Just rebuilt mine.Liking the shocks in the back too.Med. grip track.
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:38 AM   #1324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Question regarding the ball differential: is this using 1/8 diff balls? I tried to look at some replacement parts, and only see full diff sets and the diff gear so I couldn't tell. I counted the openings in the diff gear and see 12, so it leads me to believe they're 1/8 balls - which I think is a great thing. I love how the diffs build and last on my SRX2 which also uses 1/8 balls.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
I'm sure they are 2.4mm balls. That is what is used in the XB4 ball diff.

#930220
Quote:
Originally Posted by sracer811 View Post
12 2.4 diff balls.Just rebuilt mine.Liking the shocks in the back too.Med. grip track.
Both the XB4 and XB2 uses 2.4mm balls for the differential.

XB4 stock part #930220 which are 2.4mm ceramic balls.

XB2 stock part #930120 which are 2.4mm carbide balls.

We recommended gluing the diff rings to the outdrives and change to carbide diff balls for the XB4 ball diff due to soft rings.
This will give much better performance and significantly greater life span.

For the XB2 diff it's only necessary to open it and ensure they have enough grease added and then do a proper run in.

XB2 Dirt Edition will come with it's own instructions on how to break in and setup the diff and slipper clutch

Bent
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Old 02-06-2016, 06:51 AM   #1325
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2.4mm is 3/32" ...
diff balls from any manufacturer will fit.
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:21 PM   #1326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyT. View Post
He is right... Theoretically.

But sometimes theory doesn't play out in the real world.

I can't really explain this to someone without drawing a picture.

Regardless, it would seem that most are finding more grip with the shocks in back. It's just counter intuitive to everything we know about weight transfer. Maybe a long wheel base would help this car too, in low grip, as it seems slowing rotation is a greater benefit than adding weight transfer to rear.
I'm ok with being wrong, not gonna lose sleep over it. It was my interpretation.

In any event this will be my next buggy as I saw these on our track yesterday and they looked super dialed.
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Old 02-07-2016, 07:43 PM   #1327
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Anyone running 2.4 wheels diameter vs. 2.2 how would you compare?
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:46 AM   #1328
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Quote:
New XB2 Lexan™ Rear Wing 1.5mm

• Thicker 1.5mm Lexan™ material
• Increased reliability
• Increased traction & stability
• Increased lifespan

Optional REAR wing for XB2 made from thick 1.5mm Lexan™ material is highly reliable with less chance of breakage, gives higher traction & stability, but reduces steering.

#323511 Lexan™ Rear Wing 1.5mm - http://bit.ly/1klNo0n

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Old 02-08-2016, 08:48 AM   #1329
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Would the 2mm xb4 rear wing fit as well ?
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:00 AM   #1330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Would the 2mm xb4 rear wing fit as well ?
Yes, but the XB2 wing is a much better fit.

Besides, the 2mm wing is overkill on the 2WD as it adds too much weight up high.

The 1.5mm wing is VERY durable

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Old 02-08-2016, 03:08 PM   #1331
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I pre-apologize if this is a question that has been asked before, I don't have a lot of time at the moment to read through this entire thread (although I will soon). I'm seriously considering pre-ordering the dirt XB2 (about 90% there, was about to get a Schumacher KF2 but I reconsidered when I saw this car) and would like to pick up some basic replacement parts since I don't have any X-Ray stuff whatsoever. I'm primarily an on-road guy, and just wanting to play with off-road occasionally, so I'm not looking to go super insane with every hop-up, I just want to avoid ending a race-day early if I break something basic. Or if people have experienced issues with a part included with the car, I'd rather avoid issues and just buy the better part right off the bat.

Anyone have a list of recommended parts when starting off with this platform brand new? I will be running primarily 17.5 on a relatively large outdoor hard packed dirt track.

Edit: One specific question I have at the moment is what alloy servo arm works the best for this car? I assume it comes with a plastic horn, or none at all. Also, is there a preferred servo that easily drops into this car? I was considering a shorty to gain some space for the electronics. The last time I drove an off-road buggy was the RC10 when chassis space was plentiful and pretty much anything fit.
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:21 PM   #1332
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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
I pre-apologize if this is a question that has been asked before, I don't have a lot of time at the moment to read through this entire thread (although I will soon). I'm seriously considering pre-ordering the dirt XB2 (about 90% there, was about to get a Schumacher KF2 but I reconsidered when I saw this car) and would like to pick up some basic replacement parts since I don't have any X-Ray stuff whatsoever. I'm primarily an on-road guy, and just wanting to play with off-road occasionally, so I'm not looking to go super insane with every hop-up, I just want to avoid ending a race-day early if I break something basic. Or if people have experienced issues with a part included with the car, I'd rather avoid issues and just buy the better part right off the bat.

Anyone have a list of recommended parts when starting off with this platform brand new? I will be running primarily 17.5 on a relatively large outdoor hard packed dirt track.

Edit: One specific question I have at the moment is what alloy servo arm works the best for this car? I assume it comes with a plastic horn, or none at all. Also, is there a preferred servo that easily drops into this car? I was considering a shorty to gain some space for the electronics. The last time I drove an off-road buggy was the RC10 when chassis space was plentiful and pretty much anything fit.
i cant speak for breaking parts as i havent broken any. I have the carpet edition, and it comes with 2 sets of arms for the front and the rear, and some other parts as double for medium and hard. i dont know if the dirt will have similar since it isnt released yet.

as far as the horn, mine came with 3 plastic horns, i think it was 23 to 25 tooth.

for the electronics, i had a bit of a hard time fitting my r10. i eventually was able to get it fit nicely, but i had some issues because i wanted to route my wires nicely.

i cant say enough about this truck. it is really terrific
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:22 PM   #1333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
I pre-apologize if this is a question that has been asked before, I don't have a lot of time at the moment to read through this entire thread (although I will soon). I'm seriously considering pre-ordering the dirt XB2 (about 90% there, was about to get a Schumacher KF2 but I reconsidered when I saw this car) and would like to pick up some basic replacement parts since I don't have any X-Ray stuff whatsoever. I'm primarily an on-road guy, and just wanting to play with off-road occasionally, so I'm not looking to go super insane with every hop-up, I just want to avoid ending a race-day early if I break something basic. Or if people have experienced issues with a part included with the car, I'd rather avoid issues and just buy the better part right off the bat.

Anyone have a list of recommended parts when starting off with this platform brand new? I will be running primarily 17.5 on a relatively large outdoor hard packed dirt track.

Edit: One specific question I have at the moment is what alloy servo arm works the best for this car? I assume it comes with a plastic horn, or none at all. Also, is there a preferred servo that easily drops into this car? I was considering a shorty to gain some space for the electronics. The last time I drove an off-road buggy was the RC10 when chassis space was plentiful and pretty much anything fit.
Buy an extra RR hanger for the car. It's a weak point but some will ague to the death that it's user error.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:02 PM   #1334
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What I really like about the Xray cars is that they are 100% competitive out of the box. I don't think you need any upgrades at all. As far as servos go I'm pretty snobby but I really like the Savox 2263 brushless shorty. I've sold a billion of them at the track. They are fast, durable, and smooth. Nothing like the garbage disposal sounding 1257 & 1258s.
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:24 AM   #1335
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Buy an extra RR hanger for the car. It's a weak point but some will ague to the death that it's user error.
Did you break one?
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