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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-04-2016, 02:18 PM   #1291
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Bentka. Thanks for the response. Yes I'm from the U.S. I guess it just comes down to I'm very excited to put all the option parts on the car. The thought of making this beast "xb2" even better is nutty! In a area full of yokomo and b5m's I'm the only one with X-ray and consistently being chased!!!
As long as you are being chased and not doing the chasing thats all that matters.
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Old 02-04-2016, 02:35 PM   #1292
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When you guys move the shocks to the back are you making any other changes (oil, springs,positions)?

You realize you are effectively making the rear suspension stiffer, and taking away traction, right?

Is it one of those we don't know why it works, it just does, kind of things?
Its putting weight as far back as you can on the car. Which help in low traction.
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:27 PM   #1293
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So is it possible to purchase parts from outside of US and what would be best places to do so with the parts in stock?
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:34 PM   #1294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyT. View Post
When you guys move the shocks to the back are you making any other changes (oil, springs,positions)?

You realize you are effectively making the rear suspension stiffer, and taking away traction, right?

Is it one of those we don't know why it works, it just does, kind of things?
Ok, I'm at work and don't have the car in front of me...why is moving the shocks to the back making the suspension stiffer? I thought I remember the holes being in the same place?
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:55 PM   #1295
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according to the manual moving the shocks to the back is ideal for high bite.

For lower bite you install the shocks in the front of the arms. that puts more weight to the rear to create more traction.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:38 PM   #1296
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So is it possible to purchase parts from outside of US and what would be best places to do so with the parts in stock?
So this will be my first order from this retailer.

http://www.xray-shop.at/shop/

They seem to be legit and seem to have all parts in stock. I ordered a few days ago, and have not been informed that my items have shipped yet. They did mention it takes 5 business days to process which I found odd. I used PayPal so I am buyer protected

Anyways we'll see.
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:13 PM   #1297
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
according to the manual moving the shocks to the back is ideal for high bite.

For lower bite you install the shocks in the front of the arms. that puts more weight to the rear to create more traction.
I think it's actually the other way around - front mounted shocks for high bight, rear mounted for low bite, but it'd be nice to keep the wing mount forward without moving the shocks forward.
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:23 PM   #1298
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Moving the shocks around will change how fast the car rotates. It theoretically changes the weight distribution, but at such a small level. With them on the front of the arm, the car will rotate faster than having them behind the tower.
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:35 PM   #1299
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LOL you guys were hacking each other. The announcer cracked me up he couldn't say who was leading cause he was confused.
Worst race director ever........nothing but insult u guys the whole time. Lol
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:50 PM   #1300
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Originally Posted by xray lover View Post
Its putting weight as far back as you can on the car. Which help in low traction.
I think moving shocks toward the rear would promote faster rear to forward weight transfer, which would mean less rear traction, but more steering generally. Thoughts?
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:25 PM   #1301
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Hi Traction
Attached Thumbnails
Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-33b.jpg  
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:30 PM   #1302
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Hi Traction
Yep, that is wrong.

Shocks on the back = low/medium traction

Shocks on the front = High traction


Seth is right, moving the shocks really helps more with corner rotation that it does traction. front to rear & vice versa weight transfer is probably right as well, or at least one of a multitude of items it can effect.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:19 PM   #1303
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So what is the mechanism that promotes faster or slower rotation? The location of the mounting holes in the arm are the same distance from the centerline of the car. It appears that the vertical angle of the shock is also the same, due to the spacer, whether mounted on the front or the back.

Other than having the weight of the shocks forward or aft of the axle, I'm having a hard time understanding what is changing with this option?

It did seem like a lot of cars switched to rear mounted shocks at the Reedy race when they complained about poor traction. I just assumed that was due to moving the CG of the car aft with the weight of the shocks.

Last edited by avaldes; 02-04-2016 at 11:40 PM.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:21 PM   #1304
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according to the manual moving the shocks to the back is ideal for high bite.

For lower bite you install the shocks in the front of the arms. that puts more weight to the rear to create more traction.
Just.....wow.
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:31 AM   #1305
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Hi Traction
A wild guess, Xray means this make your car generate more traction.
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