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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-21-2016, 07:49 AM   #1141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8kaos View Post
Ok, so when we talk about the front needing to be -0.75, I guess that is from a starting point of 0.00 which is what comes stock in the kit? Again for AE wheel offset....!
that is correct.. have to cut 0.75mm off the standard wheel hex.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:40 AM   #1142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
I've just proof read the new break-in instructions and setup guide for the ball diff and slipper clutch I had Xray make for the Dirt Edition manual.

Can't share it yet, but it will have short to the point instructions with superb illustrations explaining how to do it the way I've done it personally since the 90's

And hopefully it will be very easy to understand and of great help to those with not so much experience from ball diffs.

Dirt Edition release coming sooooooon

Bent
Thanks alot Bent. I think it's a great idea to include step by step instructions on how to break the Xray ball diff in.
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:17 AM   #1143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Bent, when you build your gear diffs, do you align the notches for the pin, or do you clock them 180deg from each other? I am referring to the molded bump on the case for the drive pins. Does this make sense?
Great question. I had the same thought as well. I would think that you would wan't it at 180 degrees from each other — to balance it out.

I see it like balancing my washing machine under load. Too many clothes piled up on one side creates chaos during the spin cycle. Maybe I am overthinking this.
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:45 AM   #1144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Bent, when you build your gear diffs, do you align the notches for the pin, or do you clock them 180deg from each other? I am referring to the molded bump on the case for the drive pins. Does this make sense?
I actually clock them 180 degrees opposite of each other.......just because I'm that OCD

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Old 01-21-2016, 11:30 AM   #1145
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Yeah I did the same, but I also didn't weigh them so I don't know if Xray actually designed them to be balanced or what.
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Old 01-21-2016, 12:43 PM   #1146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Yeah I did the same, but I also didn't weigh them so I don't know if Xray actually designed them to be balanced or what.
The recess is there to make rom for inserting the pin into the outdrive.

It doesn't have any other function

Bent
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Old 01-21-2016, 12:45 PM   #1147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
Thanks alot Bent. I think it's a great idea to include step by step instructions on how to break the Xray ball diff in.
I really think people will appreciate having it as a reference.

I'm super happy about how it came out and it will be so nice to be able to just post that page of the manual instead of explaining it a hundred times over

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Old 01-21-2016, 04:08 PM   #1148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Did I install the bushings correct for this setup
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:38 PM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
Did I install the bushings correct for this setup
The RF inserts are wrong. Those need to be down and inside (dot closest to RF)
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:52 PM   #1150
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Pmd
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:13 PM   #1151
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Oh weird! I was looking at this same setup sheet but originally from Facebook that shows differently then Petitrc.
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:36 AM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Oh weird! I was looking at this same setup sheet but originally from Facebook that shows differently then Petitrc.
OK that's better...you to are looking at different setups for RF, had me confused for a moment.
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:34 AM   #1153
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Been busy today :





Made 6 at 61.9g and 4 at 50.9g precisely.

Jonathan
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:52 PM   #1154
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I am going to try out the SMC weights until the X-ray part is available. I can put them in front and behind the batteries, or both right by the motor.

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=278
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:50 PM   #1155
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Anyone know when the dirt edition is suppose to be released in North America.
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