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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-18-2016, 09:13 AM   #1066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Back from the race, the car was great, but as usual it took me a while to learn the track. I qual'ed 4th which is my best result in a long while, usually I make the bottom of the A or the top of the B, but this time I had a bit more luck than usual... until the mains. I broke in the first one (FHS3x6 went out on rear block grrr) and got taken out in the first lap in 2nd one and had to start from dead last, I could climb back to 6th or 7th but not any further.

The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at

Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?

Thanks!
Paul
You can put washers under the two front brace post and under all the screws on the waterfall brace. Or even get a bit of plastic such as lexan leftovers or thicker bits (plasticard) and make a spacer out of it for the waterfall brace.

Jonathan
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:34 AM   #1067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Where did you get the 50gram weight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Back from the race, the car was great, but as usual it took me a while to learn the track. I qual'ed 4th which is my best result in a long while, usually I make the bottom of the A or the top of the B, but this time I had a bit more luck than usual... until the mains. I broke in the first one (FHS3x6 went out on rear block grrr) and got taken out in the first lap in 2nd one and had to start from dead last, I could climb back to 6th or 7th but not any further.

The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at

Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?

Thanks!
Paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
You can put washers under the two front brace post and under all the screws on the waterfall brace. Or even get a bit of plastic such as lexan leftovers or thicker bits (plasticard) and make a spacer out of it for the waterfall brace.

Jonathan
Use the original Xray 50g weight plate instead.

It's much thinner at 0.9mm.

Part #326180

They are shipping now from Xray

Bent
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:37 AM   #1068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
What front and rear tire would u guys suggest for high bite carpet?

Other then the proline tires..
Shucmacher Cut Stagger Low Profile Yellow front

Schumacher Mini Pin 1 Yellow rear with Schumacher Medium Blue foam.

Cut inner and outer row of pins on rear tire.

JConcepts carpet and astro tires will be out soon

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Old 01-18-2016, 10:13 AM   #1069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
New to drilling Pistons, what are the drill bit sizes to do 1.6 and 1.7 holes?
I bought this set a while ago and it's served me well for drilling pistons.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...on-and-details
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:57 PM   #1070
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Use the original Xray 50g weight plate instead.

It's much thinner at 0.9mm.

Part #326180

They are shipping now from Xray

Bent
Thanks Bent. Couldn't find it yet. Any idea what alloy it's made of? I assume some kind of unobtainium Given that I want to buy a pair of ECS, I might be already broke soon anyway On a more serious note, even a 1mm plate wouldn't fit without a mod, the brace is a tight fit... how do you guys do it?

Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.

Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...

Thanks,
Paul
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Last edited by Lonestar; 01-18-2016 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:07 PM   #1071
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post

Cut inner and outer row of pins on rear tire.
no way... on 2wd?!?
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:09 PM   #1072
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Finally my XB2 is built. This weekend will be the first run. I am using Malin DHI Cup - Odense Carpet Setup as a starting point.

Overall XB2 noticeably lighter than my RB6, just judging by feel. On medium grip astro how necessary is it to add the 50 grams of weight? What should I expect from the XB2 being a little lighter?
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:20 PM   #1073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Thanks Bent. Couldn't find it yet. Any idea what alloy it's made of? I assume some kind of unobtainium Given that I want to buy a pair of ECS, I might be already broke soon anyway On a more serious note, even a 1mm plate wouldn't fit without a mod, the brace is a tight fit... how do you guys do it?

Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.

Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...

Thanks,
Paul
Weight plate is shipping to distributors who have them on order now.

It fits with no modifications.

The entire team has been running them for a while now.

Bent
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:21 PM   #1074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
no way... on 2wd?!?
Always......unless it's low grip.....adds rotation = corner speed

Bent
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:35 PM   #1075
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Thanks Bent. Couldn't find it yet. Any idea what alloy it's made of? I assume some kind of unobtainium Given that I want to buy a pair of ECS, I might be already broke soon anyway On a more serious note, even a 1mm plate wouldn't fit without a mod, the brace is a tight fit... how do you guys do it?

Suby (you drive a rex?) I used these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...r10014/p469224. As cheap as can be.

Shannow, that's what I initially did (washers) but then one loses the "keying" between the parts...

Thanks,
Paul

Yep gotta 02 bugeye haha I love Subaru's. I contacted mckune about making a weight that covers the entire tray. I'm just gunna wait impatiently for the Xray weight to show up at RCAmerica.
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:29 PM   #1076
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is there a list of part numbers anywhere for the difference between the dirt and carpet editions?

was thinking of getting them to be able to switch back and forth, but it its super expensive, i might just get the dirt as well...and throw in a gear diff ( I dont like ball diffs)
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:09 PM   #1077
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Yep gotta 02 bugeye haha I love Subaru's.
Cool - I had a '01 WRX, now a '08 STi. Tanfastic cars

Well, worst case, you can still file the battery brace like I did... I don't think McKune can stamp alloy... from what I see they can cut stuff, not stamp/mill.
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:23 AM   #1078
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just a heads up guys i seen the carpet edition car on a dirt track this past weekend running the 17.5 class. car looked extremely good with box set up. i may have to get one of these things
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:28 AM   #1079
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My standard size Orion 4500 shorty(ori14066) have close to zero gap to the battery brace.
If the foam strips are removed from chassis I measure 0,8-0,9mm gap.
You don't want the battery brace to be in contact/pressing on the battery, as that would affect the stiffness of the chassis.

I use a 40g steel block(approx. 40x10x4mm) in front of the battery (battery currently in rear pos).


Best Regards
Morgan
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:16 AM   #1080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moleman View Post
My standard size Orion 4500 shorty(ori14066) have close to zero gap to the battery brace.
If the foam strips are removed from chassis I measure 0,8-0,9mm gap.
You don't want the battery brace to be in contact/pressing on the battery, as that would affect the stiffness of the chassis.

I use a 40g steel block(approx. 40x10x4mm) in front of the battery (battery currently in rear pos).


Best Regards
Morgan
The car is actually designed to have the battery brace clamp down on the battery.

We go the opposite way of your suggestion and add foam strips under the carbon battery brace to ensure it clamps securely on the battery and then add an adjustable turnbuckle connected to the battery brace and the "waterfall" to further stiffen the chassis lengthwise and create more equal flex.

When doing so we also remove the flex screws from the waterfall under the chassis.

This works really good for us

Bent
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