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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-17-2016, 09:05 AM   #1051
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What always baffled me is why in 1/10 we use very heavy center diff oil and in 1/8 we only go as high as 7k 10k for the center diff ?
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:13 AM   #1052
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Part of it is the fact that an 8 scale doesn't rotate if you go too thick.
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:34 AM   #1053
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Yeah but I would have though that a 25% scale ratio increase would be closer. It's true that the geometry isn't quite the same as the 1/10 are longer in proportion but still. 500k-1M to 5-7k is enormous. It's surprising.
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Old 01-17-2016, 01:27 PM   #1054
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For one thing, 4wd front tires are not the same as the rears unlike 1/8.
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:15 PM   #1055
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New to drilling Pistons, what are the drill bit sizes to do 1.6 and 1.7 holes?
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:03 AM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
New to drilling Pistons, what are the drill bit sizes to do 1.6 and 1.7 holes?
I honestly just have a huge drill bit set and measured with calipers haha.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:57 AM   #1057
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1.6 and 1.7mm drill bits generally work well
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:59 AM   #1058
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oh yeh you weirdos are still using the numbering system

just google it
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:49 AM   #1059
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Torque curve on a gas engine is different from an electric one, plus there's a clutch in between, and the driving style is different
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:57 AM   #1060
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Back from the race, the car was great, but as usual it took me a while to learn the track. I qual'ed 4th which is my best result in a long while, usually I make the bottom of the A or the top of the B, but this time I had a bit more luck than usual... until the mains. I broke in the first one (FHS3x6 went out on rear block grrr) and got taken out in the first lap in 2nd one and had to start from dead last, I could climb back to 6th or 7th but not any further.

The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at

Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?

Thanks!
Paul
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:13 AM   #1061
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I practiced with mine yesterday for a while, it drove very well, I am running the EOS setup but without the brass bulkhead and with only 25g under the lipo. Buggy was great, I had the wrong front tyres on so it was pushing a bit on high speed corners (strictly tyre issue, other people were also struggling) It was amazing with a ton of steering through the tight technical sections, the buggy simply went wherever I wanted it to go. The lightweight buggy was a rocket down the straight with a boosted 8.5 compared to the 6.5 I am running in my XB4. This was on medium grip carpet.

I also had a series best finish for my 4wd XB4 '14, we went all the way to a full C main and I qualified 3rd in the B, but a early mistake led me to finish 4th in the B. Still happy with the results as the A main (and some of the B main) were filled with National level/team drivers.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:26 AM   #1062
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i raced the car this weekend.. slick clay track.. car was good.. lot of steering.. coming from a B4, i got a little bit of work to do.. but.. overall happy with it.. still some changes to make..

does the XB4 rear swaybar system work on this car?
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:52 AM   #1063
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What front and rear tire would u guys suggest for high bite carpet?

Other then the proline tires..
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:57 AM   #1064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
What front and rear tire would u guys suggest for high bite carpet?

Other then the proline tires..
Schumacher yellow mini pin is all I use and is the best out right now until jconcepts releases them.
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:59 AM   #1065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Back from the race, the car was great, but as usual it took me a while to learn the track. I qual'ed 4th which is my best result in a long while, usually I make the bottom of the A or the top of the B, but this time I had a bit more luck than usual... until the mains. I broke in the first one (FHS3x6 went out on rear block grrr) and got taken out in the first lap in 2nd one and had to start from dead last, I could climb back to 6th or 7th but not any further.

The car is surprisingly stable for a mid-motor design. the std 4deg rear toe plus 0 deg antisquat adjustment certainly helped. I did feel it hurt the mid-speed turn right before the straight though as I was kind of understeering there and it costed me a couple of tenths every lap as I couldn't throttle hard at the beginning of the straight. I didn't dare change it as I was too worried I'd lose the rear, although hi-grip, mid-speed corners is where the car should shine by design. I also went up from 4K to 7K in the diff and the car was better everywhere, esp. at the hard braking at the end of the straight (hairpin) where I didn't have to tighten my buttocks everytime I tapped the brakes. One of the other guys I was running with tried to move the pack to the front and he said it was undriveable there. Overall, nothing to complain about, the car worked beautifully for me. A bit more luck would have landed me a top5 finish probably. I just wished I had more wheen time and a track to practice at

Just one Q though - I ended up adding 50g under the lipo to settle the car down a bit, and it worked beautifully handling-wise. However, as it lifted the shorty by about 1.5mm or so, I had to file the "fork" of the battery holder so it could fit under the waterfall brace... that was a bit of a hack, really. Any elegant solution you folks can suggest?

Thanks!
Paul

Where did you get the 50gram weight?
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