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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-11-2016, 10:27 PM   #976
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Quote:
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Half of the problem is my local hobby shop, he only deals with hobby grade r/c's and doesn't want to place orders for products he doesn't deal with.
Please, contact your national distributor in Australia at [email protected].
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:39 AM   #977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Hi Bent,

Sorry for off-topic, but i want to send my congratulations to Malin (and to you too), for the a-main in 4wd at DHI Cup this past weekend, well done!
Thank you

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Old 01-12-2016, 12:50 AM   #978
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Bent, I'd like to echo that sentiment! Malin is fabulously talented. You are doing a great job mentoring her and keeping her involved in this great sport.

-Aaron
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:13 AM   #979
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Bent, I'd like to echo that sentiment! Malin is fabulously talented. You are doing a great job mentoring her and keeping her involved in this great sport.

-Aaron
Thank you so much Aaron

I'm basically just trying my best to keep up with her

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Old 01-12-2016, 01:31 AM   #980
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XB2 is almost done before its maiden run on raceday saturday, tight indoor track, carpet/minipins. I won't have any practice before the race itself, actually there's only a 3mn controlled practice for reseeding on a layout built during the night, then it's straight into qualifiers.

I've built the car as per instructions, except the antisquat (0deg) and I will use 1.6/1.7 pistons (still waiting for my Avid's)

This will be my first foray into low-CG, front-mid-motored 2wd. Our carpet isn't the grippiest, and there are some polished wood sections sometimes placed in the most challenging areas (that's the whole point ). My worry is that I don't have enough rear grip right away and feel uncomfy with the car.

What are then the top3 setup ajustments I can do to make the car easier to drive if that's the case and the car is too tail-happy for my driving skills? I was thinking more rear toe (on power), less rear droop (off power), then lower both roll-centers if needed (both)

Comments, suggestions?

Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:36 AM   #981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCHamburg View Post
Bent,

I´ve a question according to the hard and medium parts. When I use the medium parts in front, do I have more steering or less? Or does it only change the "feeling" of the car?

Furthermore do you have already a release date for the brass lipo weight?

Thanks a lot in advance!

PS: Congratulation to the great results at DHI Cup!
Using medium parts over hard does create more traction and usually also more steering. But at the same time it can also make the car a bit harder to drive if the traction is high as it will flex more.

Usually we tend to run the parts as stiff as we can while still having enough traction.

Running stiffer parts does make the car easier to drive and push hard.

As an example we are running hard lower front chassis and medium top at the moment. This combination makes it feel more predictable and precise while still having a good amount of steering. Running all medium does have more traction but feels less precise and consistent at the medium to high grip tracks we run at at the moment.

Don't be afraid to mix and match different parts…….we do it all the time.

Changing arms, uprights and link mounts is quick and easy.

And thank you

Bent
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:45 AM   #982
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Quote:
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bentka, we run on medium to high bit dirt tracks. Which version would you recommend one track pure clay and pretty tacky where worn out clay compond works best, the other is clay mix with medium traction we currently run super soft slicks. I am leaning toward the dirt, thanks for input you can provide
This is a tricky one.

If the traction stays consistent and the track doesn't break up I would think the Carpet car could do very well.

But my personal gut feeling choice would be a Dirt Edition 3 gear setup

Are people converting their cars to lay down transmission with success or are the 3 and 4 gear mid motor cars with motor to the rear and top shaft up higher performing better ?

Bent
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:48 AM   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
XB2 is almost done before its maiden run on raceday saturday, tight indoor track, carpet/minipins. I won't have any practice before the race itself, actually there's only a 3mn controlled practice for reseeding on a layout built during the night, then it's straight into qualifiers.

I've built the car as per instructions, except the antisquat (0deg) and I will use 1.6/1.7 pistons (still waiting for my Avid's)

This will be my first foray into low-CG, front-mid-motored 2wd. Our carpet isn't the grippiest, and there are some polished wood sections sometimes placed in the most challenging areas (that's the whole point ). My worry is that I don't have enough rear grip right away and feel uncomfy with the car.

What are then the top3 setup ajustments I can do to make the car easier to drive if that's the case and the car is too tail-happy for my driving skills? I was thinking more rear toe (on power), less rear droop (off power), then lower both roll-centers if needed (both)

Comments, suggestions?

Thanks!
Will post both video and setup from this weekends DHI Cup in Denmark which was ran on medium grip carpet on Malin's page today.

Her XB2 was running really well

Bent
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:51 AM   #984
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Default laydown motor "carpet edition"

Amazing amount of forward bite in this chassis considering how forward the motor is. I've only run mine on carpet, but would like to try it on high bite clay as well.

Bet the "Dirt Edition" will be stunning on low to mid surfaces.
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:29 AM   #985
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Will post both video and setup from this weekends DHI Cup in Denmark which was ran on medium grip carpet on Malin's page today.

Her XB2 was running really well

Bent
Looking forward to it, thanks (i don't have FB so I help the profile is in free access )

HAving said that, I don't have Malin's fingers... if I need to tame the car down, where shall i start?

Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:33 AM   #986
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Malin's XB2 setup from this weekends DHI Cup on medium traction carpet is now posted:

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016

Bent
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:03 AM   #987
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Shoot yea.. We gatta get these cars settled and fast. Show me the way master Jedi.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:12 AM   #988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Malin's XB2 setup from this weekends DHI Cup on medium traction carpet is now posted:

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016

Bent
Thanks Bent

Key takeouts for me are:
- Negative castor (from 26 to 23)
- 0deg anti squat ()
- 3deg rear toe

This last one combined with a 10K diff makes me think I won't be able to tame this setup
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:43 AM   #989
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Does the Avid slipper fit the car?
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:14 AM   #990
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Here's video of Malin driving her XB2 with the posted setup at this weekends DHI Cup in Denmark.

Surface is medium grip short haired industrial carpet.

Setup: http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Bent
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