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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-08-2016, 08:26 AM   #916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
What's the MAP for the Dirt edition?
Amain showing the same price as carpet
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:32 AM   #917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
... a heavy drive shaft to a light driveshaft will make very little difference.
how can you quantify this statement?

Pretty interesting book here worth referencing:
https://books.google.com/books?id=uQ...pg=PA9&lpg=PA9

Quote:
Cutting pounds out of wheels and axles isn't new, but the idea is still a good one...believe it or not this type of weight reduction doesn't compromise strength (this type of construction is also common in Pro Stock cars)...
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-08-2016, 11:43 AM   #918
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Why is it that all these hardware-intensive stock classes are popular in the US mostly? The RoW doesn't buy into these scam-categories much... And, yes, I've lived in the US and raced stock (ROAR 27, not norrca 36 Bitd) but I don't have many good memories of them...
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:14 PM   #919
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Why is it that all these hardware-intensive stock classes are popular in the US mostly? The RoW doesn't buy into these scam-categories much... And, yes, I've lived in the US and raced stock (ROAR 27, not norrca 36 Bitd) but I don't have many good memories of them...
Very often the decision to run 'stock' type classes in the US is dictated by small, tight indoor race tracks whether it be on or off-road
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:25 PM   #920
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Hey Bent, can we get this list and any updates to it on the first page of the thread?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
OK, so i have been working on a Wheel/adapter list.. going through this forum, and finding what people are doing.. i still need AKA, and TLR front offsets.. if anyone has that info..

Wheel/adapter
XRAY Front/ 0mm 365353 (STOCK)
XRAY Rear/ +2.25mm 365357 (STOCK)
AVID Front/ i believe it needs -1.5 each side, can someone confirm
AVID Rear/ +1.50 365356
SCHU Front/ 0mm 365353 (STOCK)
SCHU Rear/ +2.25mm 365357 (STOCK)
PL B4 Front/ i believe it needs -1.5 each side, can someone confirm
PL B4 Rear/ +1.50 365356
PL B5 Front/ -0.75mm 365354
PL B5 Rear/ +3.00 365358
AKA Front/
AKA Rear/ +1.50 365356, plus 0.75 wheel shim
TLR Front/
TLR Rear/ +1.50 365356, plus 0.75 wheel shim

anyone feel free to correct anything i have on here.. im just putting this info from other post on this thread.. nothing is confirmed..

If anyone has more information, please let me know. i been working on a sheet for this, and can create a PDF, to share with everyone if they want.
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Old 01-08-2016, 02:11 PM   #921
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Originally Posted by ChrisP View Post
Very often the decision to run 'stock' type classes in the US is dictated by small, tight indoor race tracks whether it be on or off-road
Understand... But if lightened, expensive drivetrains can still help in these conditions, what's the point of not running mod instead?

Anyway, it's a conversation we've had over the past 30yrs

Thanks and good night folks!
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Old 01-08-2016, 04:30 PM   #922
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Might have to pick up the dirt edition, xray has never let me down
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:10 PM   #923
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Understand... But if lightened, expensive drivetrains can still help in these conditions, what's the point of not running mod instead?

Typically, the pro level drivers are running Mod in my area and the Sportsman level drivers are running Stock, it helps give a little bit of a class division by skill. On top of that, the mod cars tend to go faster and are more likely to break which also warrants a higher level of skill to run that class. While an extra $100 or so in lightened parts may seem expensive up front, the added expense in faster tire wear will show that mod will be more expensive in the long run. Our high bite clay track will chew up a brand new set of tires in just 1 full race day in the stock class and I've heard some of the mod drivers will blow through 2 sets in a big race day with triple mains.

To each is own, doesn't matter to me if there's no support for lightened XB2 parts, I'm perfectly happy with my TLR 22-3.0 for stock racing, but will certainly be happy to be one of the first one's to buy an XB2-DE if someone's willing to make the lightened parts available, albeit XRay, MIP, Exotek... etc.

I already own an XB8E and love that buggy, sure would be nice to add another quality XRay product to my collection
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Old 01-09-2016, 08:24 AM   #924
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
how can you quantify this statement?

Pretty interesting book here worth referencing:
https://books.google.com/books?id=uQ...pg=PA9&lpg=PA9
Removing 1 gram of weight from the outside of the slipper plates (15mm from the center of the hub) will have over 100x the effect of removing 2 grams from the drive shafts (1mm from the center of rotation).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:19 AM   #925
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Removing 1 gram of weight from the outside of the slipper plates (15mm from the center of the hub) will have over 100x the effect of removing 2 grams from the drive shafts (1mm from the center of rotation).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia
Thanks Seth, so using the formula:


I've taken some crude measurements and I've over simplified the calculations because the mass isn't equally distributed across each part, but I'm just trying to get some sort of ball park estimate in understanding the magnitude in delta inertia for each lightened part based on measurements from the TLR 22-3.0 and here's what I'm getting:

Axles: *** the more I think about it, I probably should've measured the CVD shaft by themselves and not included the axles with the shaft attached perhaps
Stock r = 5, m = 24.9 yields I = 622.5
Lightened r = 5, m = 17.8 yields I = 445
622.5 / 445 = 1.4x less inertia
24.9 / 17.8 = 1.4x less mass too
Ball Diff:
Stock r = 11, m = 32.5 yields I = 3,933
Lightened r = 11, m = 17.2 yields I = 2,081
3,933 / 2,081 = 1.89x less inertia
24.9 / 17.8 = 1.89x less mass too
Slipper/Eliminator (only change in r so far):
Stock r = 16, m = 12.4 yields I = 3,174
Lightened r = 10, m = 3.8 yields I = 380
3,171 / 380 = 8.35x less inertia
12.4 / 3.8 = 3.26x less mass
While I appreciate understanding how inertia makes a significant improvement in performance, it's worth noting that mass is directly tied in the equation and any opportunity to reduce rotating mass is probably worth it IMO, but thanks for helping explain the difference so I'm not just going off mass alone.

***EDIT
Knowing what I've learned from this calculation, I'm starting to see that the MIP lightened shafts may not be worth the upgrade, although the lightened diff comes with the MIP upgrade where the lightened diff seems to be worth the upgrade. If I could do it over again, I'd probably go with just the TLR lightened out drives which use the stock shafts. It's also painfully clear that the smallest/lightest spur you can fit is grossly important, I might try to fit a 66T spur next

Last edited by billdelong; 01-09-2016 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 01-09-2016, 11:05 AM   #926
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On the eccentric bushings, I really have a simple understanding of them and am a bit confused. If I use the two 1 degrees, upside down. Will that drop my roll center more then .75? I hate not getting this so any help ion this would def be appreciated.

Im assembling another kit for a medium grip carpet layout.
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Old 01-09-2016, 12:11 PM   #927
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Thanks Seth, so using the formula:


I've taken some crude measurements and I've over simplified the calculations because the mass isn't equally distributed across each part, but I'm just trying to get some sort of ball park estimate in understanding the magnitude in delta inertia for each lightened part based on measurements from the TLR 22-3.0 and here's what I'm getting:

Axles: *** the more I think about it, I probably should've measured the CVD shaft by themselves and not included the axles with the shaft attached perhaps
Stock r = 5, m = 24.9 yields I = 622.5
Lightened r = 5, m = 17.8 yields I = 445
622.5 / 445 = 1.4x less inertia
24.9 / 17.8 = 1.4x less mass too
Ball Diff:
Stock r = 11, m = 32.5 yields I = 3,933
Lightened r = 11, m = 17.2 yields I = 2,081
3,933 / 2,081 = 1.89x less inertia
24.9 / 17.8 = 1.89x less mass too
Slipper/Eliminator (only change in r so far):
Stock r = 16, m = 12.4 yields I = 3,174
Lightened r = 10, m = 3.8 yields I = 380
3,171 / 380 = 8.35x less inertia
12.4 / 3.8 = 3.26x less mass
While I appreciate understanding how inertia makes a significant improvement in performance, it's worth noting that mass is directly tied in the equation and any opportunity to reduce rotating mass is probably worth it IMO, but thanks for helping explain the difference so I'm not just going off mass alone.

***EDIT
Knowing what I've learned from this calculation, I'm starting to see that the MIP lightened shafts may not be worth the upgrade, although the lightened diff comes with the MIP upgrade where the lightened diff seems to be worth the upgrade. If I could do it over again, I'd probably go with just the TLR lightened out drives which use the stock shafts. It's also painfully clear that the smallest/lightest spur you can fit is grossly important, I might try to fit a 66T spur next
Regarding the mass distribution, for a simple rod like an axle shaft the formula is



A handy List of moments of inertia for various shapes, which is also linked from the page Seth provided. Although to be fair I don't think it changes your conclusions, just occurred to me while reading along.

Something that will matter, for the spur the rotational speed needs to be considered, as it also spins faster than the axle shafts if I'm not mistaken. Which takes more energy to achieve. Another squared factor:



Rotational energy

Although the lighter axle components do have the additional benefit of reducing unsprung suspension mass, which is a good thing too.
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:47 PM   #928
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Wow... I am having flashbacks from frikin physics class here...
But how is the buggy? Since that's why we are here right?
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Old 01-10-2016, 06:18 AM   #929
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Originally Posted by The Wease View Post
36 75 with a R1 wurks v7 motor on a high bite astroturf track 85 foot straight
And also I believe you're only able to get as high as a 37 tooth pinion mated up with the 75 spur. Until they figure out what they're gonna do about that, looks like us in the states are stuck with that gear combination
Or at least until they release that slipperless spur gear.
Come on Xray! I know you can do it!
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Old 01-10-2016, 08:50 AM   #930
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But how is the buggy? Since that's why we are here right?
Awesome!
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