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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-26-2015, 09:11 AM   #736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Well, I'm on a trip in Norway right now so I can't measure my car but the 247mm width with the adapters you guys are using sound way too wide - I think the XB4 is at 245mm. Is the XB2 more narrow than the XB4 with stock hexes and wheels?
that 247mm is listed for the xb4 not the xb2 fyi
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:24 AM   #737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Well, I'm on a trip in Norway right now so I can't measure my car but the 247mm width with the adapters you guys are using sound way too wide - I think the XB4 is at 245mm. Is the XB2 more narrow than the XB4 with stock hexes and wheels?
My method;

I simply mounted a bare rear Xray wheel with kit hexes on the left. I then mounted a bare AE wheel on the right with the Exotek 9mm hexes.

I took measurements from the outside square face of the rear gearbox to the inside edge of both wheels - the measurements are nearly identical, if not spot on.

Others can decide if that's sufficient for them to make a decision.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:40 PM   #738
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What are all the part numbers needed to convert carpet to dirt edition?
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:53 PM   #739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchavez305 View Post
What are all the part numbers needed to convert carpet to dirt edition?
You will have to wait for the release of the Dirt Edition to get the part numbers

Bent
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:54 PM   #740
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
You can get the ae slipper and spur to work. Just need to take a Dremel/drill to the spur and make the hole wider.
If I have to modify the spur I'd try the Schelle first. Was just hoping that a factory option part would be available. Spec guys won't look at it if they can't run the FDR they like for motors. Car looks well designed.
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:33 PM   #741
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Just got the body back from my painter, RCP Customs.
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:39 PM   #742
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Just got the body back from my painter, RCP Customs.
Looks awesome. 👍
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:10 PM   #743
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Thanks!
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:25 PM   #744
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Bent,

It is probably worth mentioning to Juraj that smaller spur gears and slipper lockouts are popular in spec racing in the US. The lockouts allow smaller spurs to work when you don't have to cage the slipper pads.

-Aaron
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:41 PM   #745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by celt View Post
My method;

I simply mounted a bare rear Xray wheel with kit hexes on the left. I then mounted a bare AE wheel on the right with the Exotek 9mm hexes.

I took measurements from the outside square face of the rear gearbox to the inside edge of both wheels - the measurements are nearly identical, if not spot on.

Others can decide if that's sufficient for them to make a decision.
You need to do it on the same side, as camber and droop can change your measurement by a few mm, even if you think they are the same.
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Old 12-27-2015, 01:27 AM   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Bent,

It is probably worth mentioning to Juraj that smaller spur gears and slipper lockouts are popular in spec racing in the US. The lockouts allow smaller spurs to work when you don't have to cage the slipper pads.

-Aaron
Already done that Aaron

No promises though…….

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Old 12-27-2015, 04:55 AM   #747
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Ran my XB2 carpet edition last night on indoor clay track. Had a tough time at first. Moved rear shocks behind shock tower and the car was great. It's a pretty high bite tacky clay surface. After switching the shocks, I felt I could add more braking and a bit more motor as well. I'm running the gear diff with 3,000 oil. 250 in front shocks, 400 in rear. Stock springs and pistons. Weight bias to the rear. 4 degree toe in rear.

A few Serpent drivers reccomended running the gear diff with only 2 spider gears and 5,000 oil. Not sure how the composite gears would hold up in this situation.
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:33 PM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Fitz View Post
Ran my XB2 carpet edition last night on indoor clay track. Had a tough time at first. Moved rear shocks behind shock tower and the car was great. It's a pretty high bite tacky clay surface. After switching the shocks, I felt I could add more braking and a bit more motor as well. I'm running the gear diff with 3,000 oil. 250 in front shocks, 400 in rear. Stock springs and pistons. Weight bias to the rear. 4 degree toe in rear.

A few Serpent drivers reccomended running the gear diff with only 2 spider gears and 5,000 oil. Not sure how the composite gears would hold up in this situation.
I would stick with 4 spider gears. Hopefully Xray will release steel gears.
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:53 PM   #749
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I would stick with 4 spider gears. Hopefully Xray will release steel gears.
You can use the same metal gears and aluminim or steel pins that are optional for the XB4.

Part numbers are in the manual and on page 1 (post #2) in this thread.

Even though we do use these as a tuning aid to add inertia to the diffs of the XB4 the preferred setup is the stock gears with aluminum pins on the XB2.

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Old 12-27-2015, 12:56 PM   #750
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You can use the same metal gears and aluminim or steel pins that are optional for the XB4.

Part numbers are in the manual and on page 1 (post #2) in this thread.

Bent
Ah ok, that makes things a lot easier then.
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