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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-23-2015, 01:08 PM   #691
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Why did XRay decide to use 14mm in the XB4 and 12mm in the XB2?
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Old 12-23-2015, 01:21 PM   #692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
Why did XRay decide to use 14mm in the XB4 and 12mm in the XB2?
Because the XB2 is a brand new platform and the XB4 '16 is an evolution of the original XB4 from 2013.

This means that current owners of the XB4 will already have a lot of 14mm wheels and would be able to use these when upgrading to the '16 model.

For the XB2 it would be more likely that owners of current 2WD buggies would have 12mm wheels already and with the European Federation (EFRA) pushing for standardized wheels and offsets it seemed natural to offer the new platform with this as standard.

No matter how they would have decided to do this it would not have suited some current or new owners. You just can't please everyone

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Old 12-23-2015, 02:50 PM   #693
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Good answer. I knew there had to be a reason, almost thought it was because of strength, assuming 14mm is a stronger design than 12mm.
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:43 PM   #694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Because the XB2 is a brand new platform and the XB4 '16 is an evolution of the original XB4 from 2013.

This means that current owners of the XB4 will already have a lot of 14mm wheels and would be able to use these when upgrading to the '16 model.

For the XB2 it would be more likely that owners of current 2WD buggies would have 12mm wheels already and with the European Federation (EFRA) pushing for standardized wheels and offsets it seemed natural to offer the new platform with this as standard.

No matter how they would have decided to do this it would not have suited some current or new owners. You just can't please everyone

Bent
+1 makes sense. You can't please everyone. Although, to start the change, the XB4 2016 should have came with the new setup. It's 2016! :-)

I'm glad that EFRA is pushing for this, as there are way too many options, offsets, etc. If everything was standardized, it would be a lot easier to figure out your options. Glad to see Xray making the 12mm hex and offset a standard.
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:47 PM   #695
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Just received my XB2. It also came with the addition of a built ball diff. (Very cool). I have a few questions on the build.
1. What grit sandpaper do I use? 400-500
2. Will any CA glue work on the carbon fiber parts?
3. Looks like 1.6 front and 1.7 rear Piston size. But what about oil thickness?
4. I have slim stagger (yellow) do I run them with NO foams?
5. And I'm running this in stock what recommendations to ppl have?

Sorry for all the questions I really look forward to building and driving this baby!
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:50 PM   #696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbish76 View Post
Just received my XB2. It also came with the addition of a built ball diff. (Very cool). I have a few questions on the build.
1. What grit sandpaper do I use? 400-500
2. Will any CA glue work on the carbon fiber parts?
3. Looks like 1.6 front and 1.7 rear Piston size. But what about oil thickness?
4. I have slim stagger (yellow) do I run them with NO foams?
5. And I'm running this in stock what recommendations to ppl have?

Sorry for all the questions I really look forward to building and driving this baby!
I can help with some of these....

1. 400-500 is fine, I personally use a Dremel with a fine sand (quicker)
2. Preference, I prefer a thin CA. Apply with small Foam sponge or Q-Tip (requires quick work with thinner CA)
3. Start with what's included in the kit, adjust from there.

Enjoy!
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:53 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbish76 View Post
Just received my XB2. It also came with the addition of a built ball diff. (Very cool). I have a few questions on the build.
1. What grit sandpaper do I use? 400-500
2. Will any CA glue work on the carbon fiber parts?
3. Looks like 1.6 front and 1.7 rear Piston size. But what about oil thickness?
4. I have slim stagger (yellow) do I run them with NO foams?
5. And I'm running this in stock what recommendations to ppl have?

Sorry for all the questions I really look forward to building and driving this baby!

So this is just speaking from me. But this seems to work wonders for me.

1. I used scrotchbrite (red) and called it a day
2. I sealed it with CA glue, just use your finger to smear it
3. Yep so 1.6/1.7 and I think I'm running kit front/30wt rear
4. Yep no foams in the back, and I run schumacher medium rears
5. Not running this car in stock but should be SUPER dialed because the drivertrain is already super light, and the car itself is at 1500grams. Add some titanium screws and turnbuckles and you can easily be at 1400-1450's. Might have to try it sometime.
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:16 PM   #698
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What's the caster if you put the 5deg inserts in upside down?
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Old 12-25-2015, 01:13 AM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealander View Post
What's the caster if you put the 5deg inserts in upside down?
Haven't tried putting them upside down but here are the measurements for the chassis + caster inserts:



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Old 12-25-2015, 06:54 AM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealander View Post
What's the caster if you put the 5deg inserts in upside down?
it would be 21 degree which would make i enter hard and less on power steering wouldnt be as good through bumps
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:03 AM   #701
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
it would be 21 degree which would make i enter hard and less on power steering wouldnt be as good through bumps
Then why isn't the caster range 21-31 deg.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:27 AM   #702
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How can you tell if the steering bellcrank is on backwards?
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:01 PM   #703
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OK guys, i need you input. I race on dirt, should i wait for the dirt edition to come out or can i just use the carpet edition and put dirt tires on it?

Also will the wheel i use on my AE B5M work on the XB2?
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:24 PM   #704
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Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
OK guys, i need you input. I race on dirt, should i wait for the dirt edition to come out or can i just use the carpet edition and put dirt tires on it?

Also will the wheel i use on my AE B5M work on the XB2?
If you have high bite traction go with the carpet edition, if not get the dirt edition. B5m wheels will work but the offset isn't the same. You will need the -.75mm front hex and the +3mm rear hex to get as close as possible.
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:29 PM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
If you have high bite traction go with the carpet edition, if not get the dirt edition. B5m wheels will work but the offset isn't the same. You will need the -.75mm front hex and the +3mm rear hex to get as close as possible.
My clubs track is hard packed dirt and they use molasses as a traction compound. So by this, would you recommend the carpet edition?
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