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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-22-2015, 06:24 PM   #676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Mine where the same way. I took a Dremel to one of my snap ring pliers and all was good after.
I had to do the same, I'll dremeled them down enough to fit and boom, no problem.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:28 PM   #677
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
Oh dear, snap rings in ball diffs?
I hope they're not as awful to build as Durangos were...
That was a PITA design to say the least!
No, not even close, I had that monstrosity of a car... not even close. The thrust bearing races are labeled with an in and out side so there is no confusion. The gear is very nice too, one side allowed the balls to fall in place while the other captures them and keeps the from falling through. I've had some diffs where the balls will fall straight through if the gear isn't resting on the diff ring...
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:34 PM   #678
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No, not even close, I had that monstrosity of a car... not even close. The thrust bearing races are labeled with an in and out side so there is no confusion. The gear is very nice too, one side allowed the balls to fall in place while the other captures them and keeps the from falling through. I've had some diffs where the balls will fall straight through if the gear isn't resting on the diff ring...
That's great to hear, I would've hated to scratch this buggy off my list for that reason.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:39 PM   #679
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You absolutely have to take the ball diff apart from the factory assembly. The ball diff is not lubricated and if you try to break it in as is you will have serious problems.
Hmmmm...I find this odd. Being everything Xray is based on the highest quality, why would they release a prebuilt ball diff that wasn't built right? Little or no grease in this case.

And why did they prebuild it in the first place? Anyone buying an XB2 kit (myself included) would surely want to build arguably one of the most important components of the car.

So was it straight from Xray or did RC America do this on their own? I don't want to look a gift horse in the mouth 'cause I would rather have a free ball diff with no grease than no ball diff at all.
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:15 PM   #680
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Originally Posted by KyJoe340 View Post
Hmmmm...I find this odd. Being everything Xray is based on the highest quality, why would they release a prebuilt ball diff that wasn't built right? Little or no grease in this case.

And why did they prebuild it in the first place? Anyone buying an XB2 kit (myself included) would surely want to build arguably one of the most important components of the car.

So was it straight from Xray or did RC America do this on their own? I don't want to look a gift horse in the mouth 'cause I would rather have a free ball diff with no grease than no ball diff at all.
It's not unusual to have a car with pre assemble diffs, my bmax4 III had them with no oils in them. I don't think that because the diffs are pre assembled without grease means they are any less than the highest quality. The diffs are in its own package with a part number as if bought as an extract component. I got my 2 kits directly from RCAmerica.

I really see it as a non issue. You get a free diff that's pre assembled. Take it apart, grease it up and break it in, done....
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:26 PM   #681
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
Oh dear, snap rings in ball diffs?
I hope they're not as awful to build as Durangos were...
That was a PITA design to say the least!
No it's very easy and only one snap ring. Best ball diff out of them all IMO.
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Old 12-23-2015, 01:01 AM   #682
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More options for your XB4 and XB2:

Quote:
New Composite 3-Pad Slipper Clutch Spur Gears

• Exclusive secret blend of composite material
• Precision-molded
• Extra-strong
• Lightweight
• Stamped for easy identification

Precision-molded spur gears for 3-Pad Slipper Clutch, made from XRAY's exclusive secret blend of composite material, allowing the gear to run yet be robust enough to handle high performance brushless motors.
The spur gear is designed to have the lowest possible weight while staying strong and light.
Each gear is stamped with the tooth number for easy identification.

Fit: XB4'15, XB4'16 and XB2.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...720f83a5c45949

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Old 12-23-2015, 01:41 AM   #683
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which aka evo wheels fit the xb2 offset ???
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:39 AM   #684
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Where's the best place in the US to buy one of these? As soon as it comes out I'm going to get the dirt edition. I'd like to avoid AMAIN if I can.
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:59 AM   #685
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Where's the best place in the US to buy one of these? As soon as it comes out I'm going to get the dirt edition. I'd like to avoid AMAIN if I can.
Call RCAmerica and pre-order one.
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:14 AM   #686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfessorX View Post
which aka evo wheels fit the xb2 offset ???
None. You'll have to buy hexes to make any 2.4 wheel the correct offset.

I have the same issue. The tires that work at my local track aren't made in 2.2. I assume they made the XB2 wheels weird offsets to fit their standard hexes. The factory option hexes are a few pages back (I think +2.25 rear and -.75 front is suitable for associated offsets). I'll be buying exotek 9mm (+3) rears and calling the front good. This kit is a great value but I won't be spending $40 to fix the offsets.
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Old 12-23-2015, 11:22 AM   #687
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Would anyone be interested in a carbon fiber battery strap?
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:13 PM   #688
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Yes that would be nice. You planning on making some?
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:56 PM   #689
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Quote:
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Would anyone be interested in a carbon fiber battery strap?

The Xray carbon fiber battery strap #326111 will be out very shortly

We've been running a pre-production unit on Malin's XB2 for a few months now

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Old 12-23-2015, 01:05 PM   #690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn V View Post
None. You'll have to buy hexes to make any 2.4 wheel the correct offset.

I have the same issue. The tires that work at my local track aren't made in 2.2. I assume they made the XB2 wheels weird offsets to fit their standard hexes. The factory option hexes are a few pages back (I think +2.25 rear and -.75 front is suitable for associated offsets). I'll be buying exotek 9mm (+3) rears and calling the front good. This kit is a great value but I won't be spending $40 to fix the offsets.
The European Federation (EFRA) is pushing for a standardized offset and wheel dimension for the 1/10 buggy class just like they have for 1/10 Touring cars and 1/8th buggy.

Xray have decided to stay a few steps ahead of this so the wheels and choice of offsets are not a coincidence

When we attended the IFMAR worlds in Japan we witnessed a ton of drivers from the big brands cutting and sanding their wheels to get them through tech inspection while all the Xray drivers with stock wheels all passed without issues

A few benefits with the Xray 12mm hex wheels are:
  • Softer for improved traction
  • Do not crack
  • Offer a wide tuning range for different track widths due to the offset used.
  • Holds up very good when using acetone to re-use wheels.
  • Cheap when bought in 10-packs.
  • Hexes seat deep and very firm into the hub of the rim eliminating any problems with the hexes rounding out the wheel hub.

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