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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-21-2015, 09:10 AM   #631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn V View Post
Does make for a good show when someone's tire comes off mid-race... I've been there and it was one of the cooler ways to DNF. When I ran low-grip carpet I found that unglued fronts had a little less roll stiffness and hurt my handling, but it didn't matter when running foamless. If you're running staggers, you're going for that low-stiffness feel anyway. Do what I did; buy a pair of wheels and foams, then test out all the combinations of tire and foam before you glue them up.

In other news, I learned that an XB2 can traction roll. My first race the grip was so high that I was lifting the inside rear into every corner and working to keep the inside wheels on the ground the whole way through. It was definitely faster in, but mid-corner it was exactly the same as all the 22s and B5Ms. I expected my purpose-built low cg rig to be more impressive in that regard. Second race, the grip was way lower and the car just didn't seem to generate any grip. Moving shocks and increasing droop helped but it was never really there. Hopefully the stability will come with track time and a little tuning.
It's all about roll centers, as in camber links and hinge pin inserts, not the COG
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:12 AM   #632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by celt View Post
Bent,

Do you recommend gluing the tire to the rim in any way? These tires on a narrow Schumacher rim fit so tight, some at our track don't glue them at all. The sidewall is kind of a spring, and I've rarely seen them slip off while racing. Curious as to your experience.
We always glue them.

And to get even more steering response we glue the sidewalls down to the edge of the wheel.

This makes them even more responsive than letting them move/fold over while cornering

Bent
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:40 AM   #633
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
This is incorrect !

Removing shims inside front shocks will add droop to the front and thereby increase weight transfer to the rear on power = reduced on power steering out of corner.

Adding shims inside front shocks will reduce droop to the front and thereby decrease weight transfer to the rear on power = increased on power steering out of corner.

Removing shims inside rear shocks will add droop to the rear and thereby increase weight transfer to the front when braking = increase off power steering into corner.

Adding shims inside rear shocks will add droop to the rear and thereby increase weight transfer to the front when braking = increased off power steering coming into corner.

0 degree caster inserts will give more steering off power, not on power.

Using option 0 or 1 carbon steering extenders will improve mid and on power steering (ball stud closer to wheel).

Going to 5000cst instead of 3000cst wil also add on power steering.

Bent
Hi Bent, agree with your front shock limiting comments. Can you clarify what reducing rear droop does? Think there is a typo?
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:44 AM   #634
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Which combination of brand/wheels and hexes would I need to buy in order to be able to share rear wheels/tires on my xb4 and xb2?
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:57 AM   #635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntH3000 View Post
Hi Bent, agree with your front shock limiting comments. Can you clarify what reducing rear droop does? Think there is a typo?
Corrected the info in the original post.
Not easy to get the copy paste correct on a small phone screen

Quote:
Removing shims inside front shocks will add droop to the front and thereby increase weight transfer to the rear on power = reduced on power steering out of corner.

Adding shims inside front shocks will reduce droop to the front and thereby decrease weight transfer to the rear on power = increased on power steering out of corner.

Removing shims inside rear shocks will add droop to the rear and thereby increase weight transfer to the front when braking = increase off power steering into corner.

Adding shims inside rear shocks will reduce droop to the rear and thereby decrease weight transfer to the front when braking = reduced off power steering coming into corner.

0 degree caster inserts will give more steering off power, not on power.

Using option 0 or 1 carbon steering extenders will improve mid and on power steering (ball stud closer to wheel).

Going to 5000cst instead of 3000cst wil also add on power steering.
Bent
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:04 AM   #636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
Which combination of brand/wheels and hexes would I need to buy in order to be able to share rear wheels/tires on my xb4 and xb2?

We use Xray 12mm wheels front and rear on both XB2 and XB4.

#365354 -0.75mm (2pcs) = 3.8mm
#365353 0mm (2pcs) = 4.6mm (XB2 stock front)
#365355 +0.75mm (1 stripe)(2pcs) = 5.3mm (used on front of XB4 with #369912)
#365356 +1.5mm (2 stripe)(2pcs) = 6.1mm (used on rear of XB4 with #369913)
#365357 +2.25mm (3 stripe)(2pcs) = 6.8mm (XB2 stock rear)
#365358 +3.00mm (4 stripe)(2pcs) = 7.6mm
#365359 +3.75mm (5 stripe)(2pcs) = 8.4mm

The small inner flange that goes towards the bearing are not included in the measurements .
This flange adds 0.3mm on all the above numbers.





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Old 12-21-2015, 10:26 AM   #637
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BentKa your online support is top notch. I'll be giving a carpet edition a try for 17.5T and eventually selling my Mod B5M to go all Xray.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:40 AM   #638
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It's all about roll centers, as in camber links and hinge pin inserts, not the COG
I'm afraid you're right. I didn't want to move roll centers or camber link lengths because I had no practice and wanted to keep it simple. I felt like the car had very little chassis roll and the low CG on its own would help, but it didn't.

My track is just so inconsistent from day to day, round to round, even heat to heat. If the fast lap is a 16.0, I'm traction rolling everywhere. If the fast lap is a 17.0, I'm just sliding around. It's like I need two drastically different setups.
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:35 AM   #639
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They are selling like hot cakes and I believe are sold out everywhere. If you can get a kit pull the trigger and get one, you won't be disappointed. Xray quality is top notch.

I was curious if any Xray distributors had any available. Absolutehobbyz has them in stock.

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/XRAY-X..._p_508261.html
OK, well I guess I'm in. got the last one from Absolute. Looking forward to my first Xray. XB4 probably soon to follow
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:55 AM   #640
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OK, well I guess I'm in. got the last one from Absolute. Looking forward to my first Xray. XB4 probably soon to follow
Stunning kit, by the way...
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:59 AM   #641
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OK, well I guess I'm in. got the last one from Absolute. Looking forward to my first Xray. XB4 probably soon to follow
Oh I guarantee you will get a xb4 16 in the near future. Glad you snagged the last kit available in the country lol
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:00 PM   #642
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Oh I guarantee you will get a xb4 16 in the near future. Glad you snagged the last kit available in the country lol
Just waiting for tuning parts, wheels and whatnot to become readily available...
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:12 PM   #643
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Schumacher wheels are exactly the same offset. Rc America has some parts available last time I talked to them. The carpet kit comes with "spares" if you want to consider having full sets of plastics medium and hard parts.
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:24 PM   #644
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do the proline wheels work with the XB2? or is the offset incorrect?
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:30 PM   #645
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Schumacher wheels are exactly the same offset. Rc America has some parts available last time I talked to them. The carpet kit comes with "spares" if you want to consider having full sets of plastics medium and hard parts.
Well that's good to know...have a tire/wheel order into Schumacher.

Guess I'm set!
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