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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-16-2015, 11:55 AM   #541
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Default hmmm

Seem to be a few new XRAY guys, AE parts on your sweet car, I am busting your balls.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:40 PM   #542
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Originally Posted by Zach Peterson View Post
Seem to be a few new XRAY guys, AE parts on your sweet car, I am busting your balls.
OK so i did put the ball studs back,
but still had to use an AE Part,
72 tooth spur. LOL

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Old 12-16-2015, 04:40 PM   #543
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Looks good Brannon. Wise choice going all Xray now. Wish I was still around to race at speed factory.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:06 PM   #544
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Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
nothing wrong with em
really like the bigger rod end and heavy duty studs

yes i looked at the akramin change
since Xray puts a 2mm shim under the stud
the EA one actually sit right about the same spot
i dont think its going to affect it much
maybe a lil change in bump steer

more of a piece of mind, i can manage to pop off a ballcup on pretty much any ride, but the AE heavy duties

plus i had em , worst is i don't like and change em.
its only money,right

all you need is a regular tie rod end, instead of the curved one.

I run AE ends and balls on my XB4's.. Why? They are the best , hands down. they never need changing and don't come off. They do need some work at install, but Hey, it's AE..
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:16 PM   #545
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Hey Guys,

Will the XB4 2WD Spur Gears fit this or do you need the new updated spur gears I noticed there is a new part number for the 3 plate spur gears (#365875), but im unsure if its actually a big change or just a minor enhancement thats a nice to have, rather than a need to have.

I have a few of the older spur gears, so be good to be able to use them if possible.

Thanks guys!
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:26 PM   #546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
OK so i did put the ball studs back,
but still had to use an AE Part,
72 tooth spur. LOL
When I was running my B5M, I seriously considered putting Xray ballstuds and ends on it... b/c the combo from AE were crappy tight and you had to do magical things with dremels and pray to questionable deities to get them to not cause your A-arm to stick.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:53 PM   #547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobz View Post
Hey Guys,

Will the XB4 2WD Spur Gears fit this or do you need the new updated spur gears I noticed there is a new part number for the 3 plate spur gears (#365875), but im unsure if its actually a big change or just a minor enhancement thats a nice to have, rather than a need to have.

I have a few of the older spur gears, so be good to be able to use them if possible.

Thanks guys!
Toby

No they will not fit.

The new spur gears have a larger center hole and the cage for the slipper plates is deeper.

'16 XB4 / XB2 spur on the left '13-'15 XB4 4WD / 2WD on the right



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Old 12-17-2015, 03:11 AM   #548
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Bent not sure if your allowed to answer my question since its has not been released but will there be two different bodies one for the lay down trans and one for the dirt trans
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Old 12-17-2015, 05:12 AM   #549
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Thanks heaps for the reply!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
No they will not fit.

The new spur gears have a larger center hole and the cage for the slipper plates is deeper.

'16 XB4 / XB2 spur on the left '13-'15 XB4 4WD / 2WD on the right



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Old 12-17-2015, 06:39 AM   #550
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Alright, my first race race report. lol

I built the car box stock minus the pistons and oil setup. I wne with 1.6/1.7 35/30wt oil. For reference, I race on high bite clay, the track is sealed with dirt glue and is really grippy. The tire of choice are clay slick. However, when it starts getting cool which it the weather has started to do here in houston the track gets a bit slick. At the moment our lap times are approx 1/2 sec per lap off due to the colder weather.

1st pack: I threw the car on the track without saucing, big mistake. The car had zero traction and was un drivable.

2nd pack: I sauced the rear tires and threw it down. The car was hard to drive, the rear end had very little grip and washed out everywhere. However i could feel the car had potential. Also, the dampening felt a bit too soft.

At this point I realize that the car needs some serious setup work with regards to the stock setup. To gain rear traction I decide to remove as much anti squat as possible. I change the car from 2 deg to 0 deg of anti-squat.

I put some sauce on the rear and throw it on the track. Bingo, the rear is hooked up. I finish the pack and am very happy with the change, however the rear is still a bit lose on exit, but mid corner the car actually has a bit of push to it.

I decide to reduce the caster and change from the 2.5 deg insert to the 0 deg insert. I re-sauce the rear and throw it down on the track. The rear is even more locked on exit and I can drive the car hard. Im still missing some mid corner steering though.

I shorten the rear camber link and remove one shim on the hub to adjust the roll center. I test the car again and its better, Im now about 1/2 sec off pace. Now the quals have started and I have also been helping my bro set his XB2 up.

The quals go OK, I' m right on pace but a bit slow and take 3rd where I ultimately finish int the main.

I then decide to reduce drop in the front and add another 3mm of limiters with a total of 4mm of limiter shims inside the shock.

I throw it on the track and BINGO! the car is strapped. I run 1/2 a lap faster than with the previous setup.

All in all, the car as a ton of potential, its super stable and the car feels like it would be impossible to traction roll with (unlike my RB6). The current setup actually feels very similar to how my RB6 was except much less tippy. My setup is getting very close. All my bros were very skeptical of how the car would perform due to the weight distribution.

Bottom line is the car is excellent, tons of potential. I'm very satisfied and I believe this car will be a world beater...


FYI, the pre-assembled ball diff doesnt have lube in it. Make sure to take it apart, clean it and lube it... Also, the gear diff is hands down the best ive built PERIOD.
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Last edited by symmetricon; 12-17-2015 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:19 AM   #551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billsharp34 View Post
Bent not sure if your allowed to answer my question since its has not been released but will there be two different bodies one for the lay down trans and one for the dirt trans
As you said I'm not allowed to reveal anything prior to release other than what has already been shown in the articles and interviews with Martin

Sorry

Quote:
Originally Posted by tobz View Post
Thanks heaps for the reply!
No problem

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Old 12-17-2015, 08:40 AM   #552
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Bent what foams are you guys running up front..
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:44 AM   #553
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Alright, my first race race report. lol

I built the car box stock minus the pistons and oil setup. I wne with 1.6/1.7 35/30wt oil. For reference, I race on high bite clay, the track is sealed with dirt glue and is really grippy. The tire of choice are clay slick. However, when it starts getting cool which it the weather has started to do here in houston the track gets a bit slick. At the moment our lap times are approx 1/2 sec per lap off due to the colder weather.

1st pack: I threw the car on the track without saucing, big mistake. The car had zero traction and was un drivable.

2nd pack: I sauced the rear tires and threw it down. The car was hard to drive, the rear end had very little grip and washed out everywhere. However i could feel the car had potential. Also, the dampening felt a bit too soft.

At this point I realize that the car needs some serious setup work with regards to the stock setup. To gain rear traction I decide to remove as much anti squat as possible. I change the car from 2 deg to 0 deg of anti-squat.

I put some sauce on the rear and throw it on the track. Bingo, the rear is hooked up. I finish the pack and am very happy with the change, however the rear is still a bit lose on exit, but mid corner the car actually has a bit of push to it.

I decide to reduce the caster and change from the 2.5 deg insert to the 0 deg insert. I re-sauce the rear and throw it down on the track. The rear is even more locked on exit and I can drive the car hard. Im still missing some mid corner steering though.

I shorten the rear camber link and remove one shim on the hub to adjust the roll center. I test the car again and its better, Im now about 1/2 sec off pace. Now the quals have started and I have also been helping my bro set his XB2 up.

The quals go OK, I' m right on pace but a bit slow and take 3rd where I ultimately finish int the main.

I then decide to reduce drop in the front and add another 3mm of limiters with a total of 4mm of limiter shims inside the shock.

I throw it on the track and BINGO! the car is strapped. I run 1/2 a lap faster than with the previous setup.

All in all, the car as a ton of potential, its super stable and the car feels like it would be impossible to traction roll with (unlike my RB6). The current setup actually feels very similar to how my RB6 was except much less tippy. My setup is getting very close. All my bros were very skeptical of how the car would perform due to the weight distribution.

Bottom line is the car is excellent, tons of potential. I'm very satisfied and I believe this car will be a world beater...


FYI, the pre-assembled ball diff doesnt have lube in it. Make sure to take it apart, clean it and lube it... Also, the gear diff is hands down the best ive built PERIOD.
Thanks for the race notes! I'm going to change up a few things the way you have when I run my car on an indoor clay track.
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Old 12-17-2015, 09:11 AM   #554
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Thanks for the race notes! I'm going to change up a few things the way you have when I run my car on an indoor clay track.
Yeah, no problem. You may want to try the car stock just to see how it feels then adjust accordingly. Next time at the track I'm gonna shim the rear hubs forward and maybe lengthen the rear camber link back up now that I have a ton of steering after removing the excess front droop....The car responds very well to setup changes and is easy to work on.

I should have a pretty decent clay setup by the end of the weekend for the car. Wait till you blast through a sweeper with the car, it's so stable and doesn't feel tipsy at all.

A+ XRAY, we'll done.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:02 PM   #555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corn_bread View Post
Bent what foams are you guys running up front..
For carpet and astro running Stagger front tires we don't use foams.

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