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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-15-2015, 03:34 PM   #526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Here is what I have for Xray wheel measurements. I put a metal scale across the wheel and used a pair of calipers to measure depth to the inside face of the hex. Same reference as Chris. I am also including width of the wheel. I took several measurements and took the average:

Front Backspace - 18.5
Front Width - 24.5
Rear Backspace - 25.5
Rear Width - 38.2
That is actually quite a bit of offset difference between the Xray and AE (Avid) wheels. Buggy will be quite a bit narrower.

Possibly even an advantage on a small/medium tight track. Of course suspension geometry change comes into play too.
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:32 PM   #527
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Instead of measuring the wheels I actually mounted the XRAY wheels on the car with no tires and measured it front and rear and then did the same with the JC wheels (No tires) I run on my AE car....

Xray wheels
Front width: 242 MM
Rear Width: 245 MM

JC Wheels
Front width: 245 MM
Rear width: 241 MM

I ordered the -.75 hex's for front and +1.5's for the rear that should get my car to 243.5 Front and 244 rear. I did not see +2's at all, but maybe I didn't search good enough.
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:03 PM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
oddball question here, is it possible (assuming you find a hex) to run 14mm rims like durango uses?

As for the dirt versus carpet edition, have the included items been finalized? Reason I ask it seems the carpet edition comes with more value on initial review (graphite versus plastic towers for one) than the dirt edition. Just curious if there is something more going to come with the dirt car to even it up.

Lastly, going to the rcamerica site to see the options avialable to purchase i end up getting a dead page link?

http://www.rcamerica.com/xshop/

clicking the xray option fails?

http://www.rcamerica.com/xshop/%28EmptyReference!%29
404 errors, used to get them all the time when I had my 2014 XB4, and were looking for parts.
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:07 PM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Peralta View Post
Instead of measuring the wheels I actually mounted the XRAY wheels on the car with no tires and measured it front and rear and then did the same with the JC wheels (No tires) I run on my AE car....

Xray wheels
Front width: 242 MM
Rear Width: 245 MM

JC Wheels
Front width: 245 MM
Rear width: 241 MM

I ordered the -.75 hex's for front and +1.5's for the rear that should get my car to 243.5 Front and 244 rear. I did not see +2's at all, but maybe I didn't search good enough.
Avid will have wheels out for it soo enough, in the early days of the 2014 XB4 Avid were the first to step up and make rims that were proper offsets.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:38 PM   #530
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Working on my build.
Decided to go ahead and change the suspension ends.


AE heavy duty studs,
lunsford buckles,
AE rod ends,

happy with results

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Old 12-15-2015, 10:39 PM   #531
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Wat Evo. Wheels fit the xb2 offset????
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:13 AM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Peralta View Post
Instead of measuring the wheels I actually mounted the XRAY wheels on the car with no tires and measured it front and rear and then did the same with the JC wheels (No tires) I run on my AE car....

Xray wheels
Front width: 242 MM
Rear Width: 245 MM

JC Wheels
Front width: 245 MM
Rear width: 241 MM

I ordered the -.75 hex's for front and +1.5's for the rear that should get my car to 243.5 Front and 244 rear. I did not see +2's at all, but maybe I didn't search good enough.
The XB2 comes with +2.25mm hex in the rear.
Looks like you would want the +3.75mm hexes for the rear in order to achieve 244mm with the JC wheels.


/Morgan
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Old 12-16-2015, 04:27 AM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
Working on my build.
Decided to go ahead and change the suspension ends.


AE heavy duty studs,
lunsford buckles,
AE rod ends,

happy with results

Not sure that was necessary... but at the same time, the AE rod ends change the ackerman of the steering, so you will find the car reacting differently than a stock buggy.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:42 AM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Not sure that was necessary... but at the same time, the AE rod ends change the ackerman of the steering, so you will find the car reacting differently than a stock buggy.
Yeah, I'm not sure why one would put anything AE on an Xray. The only product I'd ever consider replacing the ball studs and camber links with would be some lunsford titanium. Xrays ball cups, camber links and ballcups are very very good.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:47 AM   #535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
Working on my build.
Decided to go ahead and change the suspension ends.


AE heavy duty studs,
lunsford buckles,
AE rod ends,

happy with results

What was wrong the oem ball studs and ends?

(see signature)
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:54 AM   #536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
What was wrong the oem ball studs and ends?

(see signature)
Nothing, never was a problem. This was unnecessary.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:59 AM   #537
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
What was wrong the oem ball studs and ends?

(see signature)
nothing wrong with em
really like the bigger rod end and heavy duty studs

yes i looked at the akramin change
since Xray puts a 2mm shim under the stud
the EA one actually sit right about the same spot
i dont think its going to affect it much
maybe a lil change in bump steer

more of a piece of mind, i can manage to pop off a ballcup on pretty much any ride, but the AE heavy duties

plus i had em , worst is i don't like and change em.
its only money,right
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:23 AM   #538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
nothing wrong with em
really like the bigger rod end and heavy duty studs

yes i looked at the akramin change
since Xray puts a 2mm shim under the stud
the EA one actually sit right about the same spot
i dont think its going to affect it much
maybe a lil change in bump steer

more of a piece of mind, i can manage to pop off a ballcup on pretty much any ride, but the AE heavy duties

plus i had em , worst is i don't like and change em.
its only money,right
It's all good man, do whatever you want. We're not trying to bust your balls... If this is your first Xray 1/10 you can rest assured Xrays ballcups and ball studs are excellent, much better than the rubbery Yokomo ballcups and soft ball studs...
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:50 AM   #539
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for anyone thats already build one of these and is running it how is the fit on the plastic suspension parts. and how are they holding up.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:54 AM   #540
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I haven't had any problems so far. Little to no slop, and everything is really free. Only upgrade I've put on my car is the aluminum rear hubs(haven't put them on yet) and titanium turnbuckles). Car is really dialed, just needs a little stiffer rear end.
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