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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-12-2015, 10:01 PM   #481
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Chris, if you can measure and post the offsets of the B5 wheels, I can do the same for the Xray wheels.
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Old 12-13-2015, 03:41 AM   #482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timannnn6 View Post
Anyone getting carpet edition to run at OCRC, San Diego, etc? Just wondering which version would be more suited for Mod. Thanks...
I would wait for the dirt edition...it will be worth the wait vs getting the carpet edition
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:05 AM   #483
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Default Xb2 is good!

Raced the xb2 last night on a clay track and won all the heats and won the a main. Frist practice run with it was good run a very fast lap right off with it. Worked on the set up little by little and by the end of the night I run just as fast of a lap as my b5m that I have been running and working on for months! The xb2 was VERY SMOOTH, consistent, and easy to drive.
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:11 AM   #484
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Anybody know what's different between carpet n dirt edition?????
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:26 AM   #485
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Great to hear the positive feedback from the field!
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:38 AM   #486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Anybody know what's different between carpet n dirt edition?????
scroll a bit down on this page:
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/

But basically:
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/ima...1.jpg?update=1
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:41 AM   #487
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Anybody know what's different between carpet n dirt edition?????
the only thing that will make a difference is the trans case. The carpet car has the laydown 4-gear, the dirt car will have the stood up 4/3-gear.

I can tell you that the carpet car will work fine at OCRC. People are getting hung up on the name "carpet" and it really isn't a big deal. Everything aside from the trans case is the same.


Of Note, I ran my car on a clay track yesterday and it was great, ran faster laps than some fast guys. Here are my notes of things that I would do right out of the gate for my next time at the track:


- Ball or gear diff? if you run med/high traction try the gear, otherwise run the ball

- Raise the inner rear ballstud 1-2mm

- Don't run any internal limiters in the rear shocks. Car doesn't have enough droop in the rear for any kind of bumps or flat-ish type landings

- Front of the car has way too much droop. Start with 2mm internal limiters but 3mm is probably the sweet spot.

- Rear shock location (front/rear) isn't so much about traction as it is more about corner rotation. Build the car up with the shocks on the front and try it. If it turns too hard, move them to the rear.... but have a second wing ready.

- you can add wieght behind the motor under the trans case if you feel the need or need a little more traction.

- Compared to the book setup, the front needs to be stiffer. Either a few steps stiffer on front spring, or even thicker oil. I ran the stock 3-hole pistons with TLR 37.5 oil. I am going to try 40wt with stiffer springs.

thats it for now. I will be at the track again with it next weekend and will post up any thing else.
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:26 AM   #488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Chris, if you can measure and post the offsets of the B5 wheels, I can do the same for the Xray wheels.
From wheel bead to face of inner hex (Avid wheels)
Front: 21.65mm
Rear: 31.15mm

Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:38 AM   #489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Thanks for the info fellas..........after reading that I would think the carpet edition is the way to go even for American style indoor clay tracks, With the medium flex parts.........I don't think anyone actually runs rear motor anymore...... Car is built beautifully
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:05 AM   #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Thanks for the info fellas..........after reading that I would think the carpet edition is the way to go even for American style indoor clay tracks, With the medium flex parts.........I don't think anyone actually runs rear motor anymore...... Car is built beautifully
The car looks like a piece of art. If you get the car from Rc America you will get a ball diff included for no additional charge, pretty sweet deal because the ball diff has a $60 value. Not many parts are needed to make it a mid motor setup. I mainly run on carpet but I'll be getting the mm transmission just to have it.
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:25 AM   #491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
The ae wheels will work just fine.
That's great news! Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2015, 12:59 PM   #492
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Here is what I have for Xray wheel measurements. I put a metal scale across the wheel and used a pair of calipers to measure depth to the inside face of the hex. Same reference as Chris. I am also including width of the wheel. I took several measurements and took the average:

Front Backspace - 18.5
Front Width - 24.5
Rear Backspace - 25.5
Rear Width - 38.2
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Old 12-13-2015, 05:17 PM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Here is what I have for Xray wheel measurements. I put a metal scale across the wheel and used a pair of calipers to measure depth to the inside face of the hex. Same reference as Chris. I am also including width of the wheel. I took several measurements and took the average:

Front Backspace - 18.5
Front Width - 24.5
Rear Backspace - 25.5
Rear Width - 38.2
Thanks, so with the AE wheel offsets it would be a bit narrower but within legal specs, cool!
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Old 12-13-2015, 05:31 PM   #494
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I found the front to be just fine, but the rear is too soft. Ended up going to 30wt associated, and yellow associated rear springs. Does seem like the front has a lot of droop.

What will decreasing the droop do? Whats the difference between making it short by make exposed shock (shock eyelid) over internal limiters?
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Old 12-13-2015, 05:39 PM   #495
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You can change hex width very easy and not very expensive to do so.
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