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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-01-2017, 04:56 AM   #4486
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Originally Posted by Shaun B22 View Post
prime blues front and back, SXT sauce, 19mm ride height, 8.5...I can't rember what oil or pistons I have in it but I am using X-ray 2 dot front and rear springs.....also not too sure what oil is in the diff.......car was super awesome and super fast.....then last raceday traction dropped off after half a race. I am confused because I haven't made any changes....
Is this clay or carpet?

Check your oils. There has to be a reason it suddenly went from good to bad. Your setup doesn't randomly start sucking mid way through a run.
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:21 AM   #4487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
67 mm driveshafts are an update that unfortunately didn't make it into the manual.

Our go to setup for the shocks are indeed 2x1.6 / 500 cst front and 2x1.7 / 400 cst rear so you'll be just fine for a start setup

Bent

is this for clay?? or carpet?
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:31 AM   #4488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun B22 View Post
prime blues front and back, SXT sauce, 19mm ride height, 8.5...I can't rember what oil or pistons I have in it but I am using X-ray 2 dot front and rear springs.....also not too sure what oil is in the diff.......car was super awesome and super fast.....then last raceday traction dropped off after half a race. I am confused because I haven't made any changes....
I assume these are the same tires and sauce everyone else is using?
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:47 AM   #4489
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Sounds to me like the tires went bad.
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:41 AM   #4490
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is this for clay?? or carpet?
It's the stock setup for the carpet edition. 👍
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:53 AM   #4491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
67 mm driveshafts are an update that unfortunately didn't make it into the manual.

Our go to setup for the shocks are indeed 2x1.6 / 500 cst front and 2x1.7 / 400 cst rear so you'll be just fine for a start setup

Bent
am i missing something? from a post

Originally Posted by no1tubaplayer View Post
I just built an XB2 CE '17 kit and had a few questions.

The driveshafts supplied are 67mm and the manual specs 68mm. The driveshaft pin looks dangerously close to coming out of the outdrive at full droop? Is this an update?


.....and 67mm is a considered a update?
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:12 PM   #4492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
am i missing something? from a post

Originally Posted by no1tubaplayer View Post
I just built an XB2 CE '17 kit and had a few questions.

The driveshafts supplied are 67mm and the manual specs 68mm. The driveshaft pin looks dangerously close to coming out of the outdrive at full droop? Is this an update?


.....and 67mm is a considered a update?
Yes.....67 mm is an update.

This is from running the team cars for several months back to back with the old 68 mm.

They are now also stock on the XB4

Bent
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:37 PM   #4493
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Hey everyone -

Got to take my new xb2c out last night. I guess the guys at the track were saying the kit spur is too big and for mod? I was only able to fit a 28 pinion in and it was okay to run but not enough to race. What spur are you guys running? We run 17.5 turn stock class. The track is medium size as seen here:

http://www.windycityrc.com/uploads/8...e1-18_orig.jpg

80 ft by 30 ft

Also the body paint started to chip based on rubbing on internal components. Is there a way to make the paint not rub off? I was going to just put a bit of shoe goo where it was rubbing. Thanks!!!
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:38 PM   #4494
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart View Post
Hey everyone -

Got to take my new xb2c out last night. I guess the guys at the track were saying the kit spur is too big and for mod? I was only able to fit a 28 pinion in and it was okay to run but not enough to race. What spur are you guys running? The track is medium size as seen here:

http://www.windycityrc.com/uploads/8...e1-18_orig.jpg

80 ft by 30 ft

Also the body paint started to chip based on rubbing on internal components. Is there a way to make the paint not rub off? I was going to just put a bit of shoe goo where it was rubbing. Thanks!!!
Running stock?
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:43 PM   #4495
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Hey Symmetricon - Sorry, just edited, yes, stock 17,5
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:50 PM   #4496
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart View Post
Hey Symmetricon - Sorry, just edited, yes, stock 17,5
Yeah, you will need to change you spur gear for sure. You will want something like this.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...AUYaAolM8P8HAQ
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-co...eOUaAkqw8P8HAQ

or this
http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:54 PM   #4497
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Thanks!
While I am putting in an order for amain anything else that's a must have? I see a few people talking about the copper weight in front.

Looking at my track, any starting point for shock oils?

Some folks were talking about locking off their slipper - I didn't notice any problems with it but I am not a pro racer.

Thanks!!!

EDIT: Just saw you linked an eliminator - so I am guessing you recommend not running the slipper on this carpet?
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:05 PM   #4498
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart View Post
Thanks!
While I am putting in an order for amain anything else that's a must have? I see a few people talking about the copper weight in front.

Looking at my track, any starting point for shock oils?

Some folks were talking about locking off their slipper - I didn't notice any problems with it but I am not a pro racer.

Thanks!!!

EDIT: Just saw you linked an eliminator - so I am guessing you recommend not running the slipper on this carpet?
Are you running the gear diff? I believe most stock racers run a slipper eliminator. I don't believe any weight is needed since it looks like your running on carpet? Play around with battery placement. Are you running 1.6x2 front and 1.7x2 pistons rear in the shocks?
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:58 PM   #4499
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Are you running the gear diff? I believe most stock racers run a slipper eliminator. I don't believe any weight is needed since it looks like your running on carpet? Play around with battery placement. Are you running 1.6x2 front and 1.7x2 pistons rear in the shocks?
Yes on the gear diff, I am totally stock from the kit, first buggy ever. The gear oil is 5000cst. Should I buy a ball diff for it?

The carpet is green outdoor carpet that you can get at local hardware stores. I have stagger in front and mini pins in the rear, they seem to bite well and turn okay without traction rolling. I wouldn't mind tighter turning though.

My shock oil is from the kit at 500csr in the front and 400csr in the rear, both at 0% rebound (as close as I could get to it, it still maybe goes 10% or so)

My shocks are 1.5mm 2 hole in front and 1.7mm 2 hole in rear.
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Old 02-02-2017, 02:09 PM   #4500
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart View Post
Yes on the gear diff, I am totally stock from the kit, first buggy ever. The gear oil is 5000cst. Should I buy a ball diff for it?

The carpet is green outdoor carpet that you can get at local hardware stores. I have stagger in front and mini pins in the rear, they seem to bite well and turn okay without traction rolling. I wouldn't mind tighter turning though.

My shock oil is from the kit at 500csr in the front and 400csr in the rear, both at 0% rebound (as close as I could get to it, it still maybe goes 10% or so)

My shocks are 1.5mm 2 hole in front and 1.7mm 2 hole in rear.
You should be fine with the gear diff. Do you need more steering on power or off, and where in the turn would you want more? Turn in, mid or exit steering?
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