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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-22-2017, 04:32 AM   #4426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
I just left the track and I am reallly frustrated. I am assuming it has to do with my shock setup but I couldnt get any reargrip at all. Steering was good but as soon as I touched the throttle coming out of a corner I would just spin out completely. Someone help me out. I am currently running 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons with 1 dot front and rear and 425 cst front and 388 cst rear. I also have the exotek rear brass hanger the X-ray front bulkhead in brass and I think 3k in the diff. And inserts are center ones pointing down. And I also have the 0 slot steering arm piece. What should I change? It is a clay track and it was a little dusty.
i had a similar issue last night, i drove a buddies car and it was very good...i will get the setup and share it
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:14 AM   #4427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
I just left the track and I am reallly frustrated. I am assuming it has to do with my shock setup but I couldnt get any reargrip at all. Steering was good but as soon as I touched the throttle coming out of a corner I would just spin out completely. Someone help me out. I am currently running 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons with 1 dot front and rear and 425 cst front and 388 cst rear. I also have the exotek rear brass hanger the X-ray front bulkhead in brass and I think 3k in the diff. And inserts are center ones pointing down. And I also have the 0 slot steering arm piece. What should I change? It is a clay track and it was a little dusty.
Check to be sure your driveline is correct. Are you missing a cross pin from behind a hex? Bad bearing? Bound up suspension?
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:45 AM   #4428
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The brass front bulkhead is 45 grams and likely the culprit. Also, laying the rear shock down will help. Try inner hole on the tower. You'll sacrifice a little rotation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
I just left the track and I am reallly frustrated. I am assuming it has to do with my shock setup but I couldnt get any reargrip at all. Steering was good but as soon as I touched the throttle coming out of a corner I would just spin out completely. Someone help me out. I am currently running 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons with 1 dot front and rear and 425 cst front and 388 cst rear. I also have the exotek rear brass hanger the X-ray front bulkhead in brass and I think 3k in the diff. And inserts are center ones pointing down. And I also have the 0 slot steering arm piece. What should I change? It is a clay track and it was a little dusty.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:58 AM   #4429
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Originally Posted by todb View Post
Use ball diff. Must use part on clay, especially dusty clay. Use aluminum/stock bulkhead, brass is alot of weight to hang out front. Stock or mod racing? Tires?
I like the brass bulk, the steering was working really good. But maybe I'll give the alum one a try anyways. I was thinking about the ball diff too. Its always out of stock at Amain tho. I was kind of waiting to see how the gear diff was cause I don't really like ball diffs and working on them. Gear diff is so much easier to maintain and adjust

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
i had a similar issue last night, i drove a buddies car and it was very good...i will get the setup and share it
Yea let me know what the setup is

Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Check to be sure your driveline is correct. Are you missing a cross pin from behind a hex? Bad bearing? Bound up suspension?
that would make sense. Cause it was spinning out whenever I would touch the throttle. I'll check that out. I was also thinking maybe the diff fluid was way too light but don't know if that would do what I was experiencing

What would the impact be if I move the shocks to the rear of the tower instead of in the front?
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:56 AM   #4430
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Try eliminating the brass first. It's 45 grams. Double the weight of other buggy brands
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Old 01-22-2017, 12:37 PM   #4431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Try eliminating the brass first. It's 45 grams. Double the weight of other buggy brands
Ughhhh damn it.... I thought that would be a good upgrade lol. So What conditions would you want to use the brass? High traction? Or isn't the X-ray version a good part to use at all cause it is so heavy?

I'll try laying the shocks down. What about moving them to the back of the tower?
And I was thinking about trying the oil weights on tessmanns setup with the 1.6 pistons (250/300 cst) if I still have issues instead of my current 425/388
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Last edited by Slapjack; 01-22-2017 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 01-22-2017, 06:51 PM   #4432
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Brass front was good for me only on slicks. Specifically days where there was zero wheelspin. Just try making one change at a time from kit before putting on a whole new setup. Try regular front bulkhead, then lay shock down although you may not need to. A lot of Tessmans setup I personally found hard to drive with less sidebite. if I drove as fast and precise as him I'd probably like it too but I found moving the rear shocks in on the rear arm achieved the exact opposite of what you are looking for

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Ughhhh damn it.... I thought that would be a good upgrade lol. So What conditions would you want to use the brass? High traction? Or isn't the X-ray version a good part to use at all cause it is so heavy?

I'll try laying the shocks down. What about moving them to the back of the tower?
And I was thinking about trying the oil weights on tessmanns setup with the 1.6 pistons (250/300 cst) if I still have issues instead of my current 425/388
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Old 01-23-2017, 05:47 AM   #4433
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#1 make sure your tires are 100% right.
#2 shocks on back of arms does help with rear grip.
#3 diff, I successfully ran my basically Box stock CE 17 on medium/low traction clay with 3k in the gear diff. It wasnt lacking anything on the ball diff cars.

When my Gold dirt webs were not right the rear wanted to step out on entrance after high speeds. Once i got the Webs scrubbed in and sauced right, the car no longer stepped out. My setup will be posted later today, it drives very smooth, nice rotation in corners and easy landing off jumps.
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:18 AM   #4434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Brass front was good for me only on slicks. Specifically days where there was zero wheelspin. Just try making one change at a time from kit before putting on a whole new setup. Try regular front bulkhead, then lay shock down although you may not need to. A lot of Tessmans setup I personally found hard to drive with less sidebite. if I drove as fast and precise as him I'd probably like it too but I found moving the rear shocks in on the rear arm achieved the exact opposite of what you are looking for
I was thinking just trying to lighten the oil up to more like what he is running. But yea I will change one thing at a time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rider313 View Post
#1 make sure your tires are 100% right.
#2 shocks on back of arms does help with rear grip.
#3 diff, I successfully ran my basically Box stock CE 17 on medium/low traction clay with 3k in the gear diff. It wasnt lacking anything on the ball diff cars.

When my Gold dirt webs were not right the rear wanted to step out on entrance after high speeds. Once i got the Webs scrubbed in and sauced right, the car no longer stepped out. My setup will be posted later today, it drives very smooth, nice rotation in corners and easy landing off jumps.
I am running green dirt webs which were brand new so that was probably part of the issue. I need to run them a few times I guess to get the tread wear right. The front tires were also new but they are bar flys I thinks they were actually pretty good. I had no issue with steering although I was driving slow thru the corners so I didn't spin out as easily. But the fronts come with low treads so they don't require as much break in I guess.
Thanks for posting your setup

Ya I want to keep running the gear diff just cause I'm not familiar with how ball diffs should feel and when and how often they need rebuilds. But I did find one used for $50 that was just rebuilt. I don't know if I should buy it or not.
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:56 AM   #4435
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Could be the fronts are overpowering the rears in terms of grip. Are you saucing? try saucing only the inside half of the front and Full on the rears.

Here is my setup. Front wing is in the low position.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 01-23-2017, 07:07 AM   #4436
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Move the shocks to the rear.. all clay setups pretty much have the shocks on the rear.. front only for carpet. that will help alot. Ball diff should help.. but the 3k isnt going to kill you.

hard to tell without watching.. but if your oversteering.. and front grip is way more than rear grip.. might dial out a little front steering travel, or try only saucing the rear.. as an extreme test. dont sauce the front, see what happens..
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Old 01-23-2017, 09:50 AM   #4437
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Another thing to try when your car seems so terrible and a friends car is really good, try their tires for a few laps and see if it's the same. I've had tires that got coated in some sort of grease and feel fine to my touch but don't work at all on the track.
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Old 01-23-2017, 10:37 AM   #4438
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Dgrob, do you know if a front sway bar is in the works for XB2's?
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Old 01-23-2017, 11:48 AM   #4439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider313 View Post
Could be the fronts are overpowering the rears in terms of grip. Are you saucing? try saucing only the inside half of the front and Full on the rears.

Here is my setup. Front wing is in the low position.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
Thanks for posting this. I just ran into a little issue tho. To mount the shocks on the back on the tower is there something I need to do besides flip the shock standoff atound? It may be because I am using the Lunsford turnbuckle but the part of the TB that u put a wrench on to adjust them is rubbing on the spring when compressed and I currently have the rear hub shimmed forward even. If I move the ballstud on the rear hub forward one hole it clears but what effect does that have on the car? I'd have to shorten the TB to get the camber back to where it was but does it effect anything handling wise?
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Last edited by Slapjack; 01-23-2017 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 01-23-2017, 04:00 PM   #4440
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There is a spacer that goes between the tower and transmission case, did you install it?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...323550/p477728
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