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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-18-2017, 09:24 AM   #4411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricW View Post
They are emulsion shocks and are supposed to have air in them. And unless you're installing bladders in your XB4 shock they are emulsion as well.

http://www.rcdriver.com/understandin...ladder-shocks/
I believe he was referring to air bubbles on assembly?? If you are getting bubbles while filling the shock with no cap on, then yes for sure replace the lower orings. I dont have too many problems with the xray orings leaking air though.
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Old 01-18-2017, 10:17 AM   #4412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoyt1967 View Post
I believe he was referring to air bubbles on assembly?? If you are getting bubbles while filling the shock with no cap on, then yes for sure replace the lower orings. I dont have too many problems with the xray orings leaking air though.
That is weird, how could air leak in from the bottom? If the o-rings did leak you would simply have oil coming out of the bottom. Now with the cap on, yes, if there is a pressure differential strong enough, the shocks could pull air in from the bottom.
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Old 01-18-2017, 12:09 PM   #4413
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Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant when the cap is on. My xb4 has very few small bubbles almost none. But the xb2 has So many it's nuts. I realize they are emulsion and should have some air but I wasn't sure if there should be so much. idk
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:26 PM   #4414
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Some of the best money I have spent is on the Tamiya shock air removal tool. It's worth the money.
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Last edited by tony montana; 01-18-2017 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:11 PM   #4415
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I can't seem to wrap my head around the inserts for the arm holders. OnTy's posted starting setup ami reading 3deg toe with 0 anti squat? What's the point in the "5" compared to the "1"?

I'm sure it's covered some place...I just couldn't find it
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Old 01-19-2017, 03:40 AM   #4416
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It is difficult to understand these I agree. .5 is 1/2 degree change and 1 is a full degree change. From what is can make of it and I may be wrong but looks like 4.5 toe and 1/2 squat. If you start with zero inserts front and rear you start with 2 squat and 4 toe and work from there.
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Old 01-19-2017, 04:18 AM   #4417
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Hi guys, does anyone have a rough starting point on pinion/spur for a 13.5 blinky set up. Will be large outdoor astro tracks
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:09 AM   #4418
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That Ty setup sheet shows he is taking 1/2 tow out of the car and taking out all but 1/2 a degree of antiaquat out. Over all he ends up with 3.5 tow and 1/2 antisquat
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Old 01-19-2017, 06:28 AM   #4419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coke in a can View Post
That Ty setup sheet shows he is taking 1/2 tow out of the car and taking out all but 1/2 a degree of antiaquat out. Over all he ends up with 3.5 tow and 1/2 antisquat
yes, stock setup is 4 deg of toe and 2 deg of anti squat. Ty's setup has 3.5 deg of toe and .5 deg of anti squat.
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Last edited by symmetricon; 01-19-2017 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:25 AM   #4420
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Thanks guys.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:03 AM   #4421
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Middle/middle on the inserts is 4* toe, 2* anti-squat. Just add 1 and .5 in any direction depending on the inserts you use. It's easiest to think about just the toe and then just the anti-squat. So he goes .5 in on the toe, 3.5* of toe. He goes down 1 on the front, 1 degree of anti-squat, then half up in the rear, so overall .5 of anti-squat.
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:56 PM   #4422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Some of the best money I have spent is on the Tamiya shock air removal tool. It's worth the money.
^this

I have one too, gets all the air bubbles out of the shock in a minute or so.
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Old 01-20-2017, 04:19 AM   #4423
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Hi There.

Anyone running sway bars both front and rear ?? if so, which sway bar mount did you use in the front ?
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Old 01-21-2017, 02:11 PM   #4424
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I just left the track and I am reallly frustrated. I am assuming it has to do with my shock setup but I couldnt get any reargrip at all. Steering was good but as soon as I touched the throttle coming out of a corner I would just spin out completely. Someone help me out. I am currently running 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons with 1 dot front and rear and 425 cst front and 388 cst rear. I also have the exotek rear brass hanger the X-ray front bulkhead in brass and I think 3k in the diff. And inserts are center ones pointing down. And I also have the 0 slot steering arm piece. What should I change? It is a clay track and it was a little dusty.
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Old 01-21-2017, 05:51 PM   #4425
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Use ball diff. Must use part on clay, especially dusty clay. Use aluminum/stock bulkhead, brass is alot of weight to hang out front. Stock or mod racing? Tires?
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