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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-07-2017, 02:30 AM   #4351
JAE
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So good with the brass on high bite clay. Not for 17.5 though IMO it's too heavy for 17.5 clearing jumps on a tight track. Steering is so much better though. Wouldn't hesitate in Mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
for carpet do you guys have to add the brass front bulkhead or add the battery weights?

I'm looking to pick one up and never ran carpet before.

Last edited by JAE; 01-08-2017 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 01-07-2017, 04:23 AM   #4352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
So good with the brass on high bite clay. Not for 17.5 though IMO. I'm going to sell mine as it's too heavy for 17.5 clearing jumps on a tight track. Steering is so much better though. I may have still used it if at a larger track even 17.5 but my track just got smaller with a lot of jumps after tight turns. Wouldn't hesitate in Mod
PM sent on that front brass piece. Lol
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Old 01-08-2017, 06:15 PM   #4353
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Cool Rear Grip

Hi all I need some help. I have a converted XB2 DE with gear diff and 3 gear standup. I run at wolcott hobby indoor track in CT which is low - medium grip clay. I have stock DE setup. If i even remotely get on the brakes hard into a turn or even a little throttle exiting the turn I spin out. Also if i hammer throttle in a straight line I also spin out. Now would a ball diff fix this issue? or should i use less Anti Squat. Its like the car is handicapped. any input would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by Jzenka; 01-08-2017 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:56 PM   #4354
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i race low-med traction outdoors, and racers there whether stand-up or laydown mostly use a ball diff. what racers call low-med indoor clay most of the time would be high traction to me, the only advice i would give is to give more information so someone on your style track could maybe answer, such as your set-up info

- wt of oil in gear diff
- rear pill setting, what toe and AS
- springs/oil/pistons
- tires

also don't be afraid to ask drivers at your track, even owners of other types of cars and see what they are doing. when i was running my XB2 DE last on off road (now converted to dirt oval) i ended up with AE springs and at times Kyosho spring combos, using shock piston hole combos (i had to drill), and even had other manf team drivers offer help

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 01-08-2017 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:55 AM   #4355
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Default Rear Grip

Again the problem i am having is if get on the throttle going straight the car spins out, if i brake going straight even slightly hard i spin out. These problems are worse in the turns. So its a rear grip issue.
My settings are as follows

AS = 2*
Toe = 4*
Gear Diff = 2k
Rear Camber = -2*
Tires = Electrons f + R OR slicks f + r
wing position = low
gearing = 81/22
Motor = 8.5t
Pistons = f + r = 3 x1.3
Shock Oil = 32/27.5
Springs = No totally sure on the front as i bought the car i think AE yellow for front and 2 stripe progressives for rear.
Shock Position Front = Middle on tower/Middle on arm
Shock Position Rear = Inside on tower/Middle on arm
Ride Height = 22mm
Roll center and camber link positions and settings are kit settings
Medium plastics
RF hanger is Exotek brass

I just feel like there is something that i am missing or not doing right. Any input would be a great help
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:11 PM   #4356
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Default 2016 xb2 for sale CE and DE parts with it.

If anyone is interested i have my 2016 xb2 for sale near perfect condition
I have all the parts for either running on Carpet or Dirt minus the Ball diff. It comes with a spektrum servo.

so car is as follows

Hard and Med composite arms
Hard and Med composite Bulkheads
Graphite and Composite Towers front and rear
Schelle Slipper kit almost brand new
3 gear stand up gear box
4 gear laydown gear box
Exotek DE Flite motor plate for standup

i would like to get 250
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:13 PM   #4357
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I think the 2 stripe rear is really high spring rate. I'd try a 1 dot rear or AE white/green etc at least 1st and a ball diff or move the gear diff weight to 5k
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:12 PM   #4358
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JZenka, I'll be down at Wolcott over the next few weeks and if you want PM me your cell # and I'll text you when I'm there.

I run all XRAY and would be glad to help you out as I too will be getting my XB2 setup for Wolcott.

- Jake

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jzenka View Post
Again the problem i am having is if get on the throttle going straight the car spins out, if i brake going straight even slightly hard i spin out. These problems are worse in the turns. So its a rear grip issue.
My settings are as follows

AS = 2*
Toe = 4*
Gear Diff = 2k
Rear Camber = -2*
Tires = Electrons f + R OR slicks f + r
wing position = low
gearing = 81/22
Motor = 8.5t
Pistons = f + r = 3 x1.3
Shock Oil = 32/27.5
Springs = No totally sure on the front as i bought the car i think AE yellow for front and 2 stripe progressives for rear.
Shock Position Front = Middle on tower/Middle on arm
Shock Position Rear = Inside on tower/Middle on arm
Ride Height = 22mm
Roll center and camber link positions and settings are kit settings
Medium plastics
RF hanger is Exotek brass

I just feel like there is something that i am missing or not doing right. Any input would be a great help
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Old 01-09-2017, 03:54 PM   #4359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jzenka View Post
Again the problem i am having is if get on the throttle going straight the car spins out, if i brake going straight even slightly hard i spin out. These problems are worse in the turns. So its a rear grip issue.
My settings are as follows

AS = 2*
Toe = 4*
Gear Diff = 2k
Rear Camber = -2*
Tires = Electrons f + R OR slicks f + r
wing position = low
gearing = 81/22
Motor = 8.5t
Pistons = f + r = 3 x1.3
Shock Oil = 32/27.5
Springs = No totally sure on the front as i bought the car i think AE yellow for front and 2 stripe progressives for rear.
Shock Position Front = Middle on tower/Middle on arm
Shock Position Rear = Inside on tower/Middle on arm
Ride Height = 22mm
Roll center and camber link positions and settings are kit settings
Medium plastics
RF hanger is Exotek brass

I just feel like there is something that i am missing or not doing right. Any input would be a great help
First thing i would try is to go to the ball diff. The gear diff is best for high traction. The next thing is tire selection. Are those tires what the fast guys are using? Are they using sauce?
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:41 PM   #4360
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Are the schelle 2x1.6 (sch1037) and the 2x1.7 (sch1038) meant to fit both the xb4 and the xb2 shocks? Amain only lists them as xb4 but on the schelle site it just says X-ray 2.1.6 and 2x1.7
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:51 PM   #4361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Are the schelle 2x1.6 (sch1037) and the 2x1.7 (sch1038) meant to fit both the xb4 and the xb2 shocks? Amain only lists them as xb4 but on the schelle site it just says X-ray 2.1.6 and 2x1.7
The inner diameter of the shocks are the same for each car and the XT2.
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:20 PM   #4362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pville Stig View Post
The inner diameter of the shocks are the same for each car and the XT2.
I figured as much but wanted to make sure

I am going to try the 2x1.6 front and rear or maybe 2x1.7 in rear. What oil should I start at and what springs for low-med grip clay?
The xb2 and xb4 springs are all the same? They don't use different springs do they?
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Last edited by Slapjack; 01-10-2017 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:20 AM   #4363
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XB2, XB4, XT2, all use the same springs as well. what oil for what car? XB2?
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:47 AM   #4364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
XB2, XB4, XT2, all use the same springs as well. what oil for what car? XB2?
Ya, sorry. For xb2 with 2x1.6 fr and 2x1.7 rr on med bite clay.
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:04 PM   #4365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jzenka View Post
Again the problem i am having is if get on the throttle going straight the car spins out, if i brake going straight even slightly hard i spin out. These problems are worse in the turns. So its a rear grip issue.
My settings are as follows

AS = 2*
Toe = 4*
Gear Diff = 2k
Rear Camber = -2*
Tires = Electrons f + R OR slicks f + r
wing position = low
gearing = 81/22
Motor = 8.5t
Pistons = f + r = 3 x1.3
Shock Oil = 32/27.5
Springs = No totally sure on the front as i bought the car i think AE yellow for front and 2 stripe progressives for rear.
Shock Position Front = Middle on tower/Middle on arm
Shock Position Rear = Inside on tower/Middle on arm
Ride Height = 22mm
Roll center and camber link positions and settings are kit settings
Medium plastics
RF hanger is Exotek brass

I just feel like there is something that i am missing or not doing right. Any input would be a great help
This is a pretty basic setup. Seems like the only uncertainty is the springs. If the car just spins out when touching the brake you might want to adjust the brakes so that you have just enough brakes to slow down but not so much that it spins out. Maybe even add a tough of drag brake. Where are you on brakes for the radio and the speed control? Check the bearings in the rear hubs. All simple things that can kill any chance of having a shot at a good handling car. With 4 deg of toe your car shouldn't be far off for a lower grip track.
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