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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-09-2015, 12:31 PM   #421
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Hey Bent quick question. I'm building my xb2 and I'm starting out with your setup from the hudy track. Just wondering what your running for your shock lengths? Can't wait to get this car on the track! Any idea of when the brass kick up and 50g battery weight will be out? Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2015, 03:35 PM   #422
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All done for the most part. What a fantastic build. Extremely pleased as I expected. Felt very similar to the xb4 (major shocker) haha I can't wait to get this car on the track!
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Old 12-09-2015, 03:49 PM   #423
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All done for the most part. What a fantastic build. Extremely pleased as I expected. Felt very similar to the xb4 (major shocker) haha I can't wait to get this car on the track!
Any reason you're not running your ABC wires along that wire holder on the passenger side of the car? I notice there isn't a channel down the middle of the chassis for a flat sensor wire... would be nice and clean to run them all down that wire holder?
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Old 12-09-2015, 04:14 PM   #424
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Damn my car was suppose to be delivered today. It shipped on Friday and Fedex sucks as usual. I now have no delivery date scheduled. Nothing like sitting at home all day waking for a package that I have to sign for. Ugh!!!
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Old 12-09-2015, 04:49 PM   #425
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Any reason you're not running your ABC wires along that wire holder on the passenger side of the car? I notice there isn't a channel down the middle of the chassis for a flat sensor wire... would be nice and clean to run them all down that wire holder?
I was debating to do that however I pulled all the electrics out of my yz2 and needed to lengthen the wires to run it along the side of the car. I decided to just keep it simple for now. I may redo it eventually. I will say that the electronics where a lot easier to install and to make it look cleaner compared to the yz2.
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Old 12-09-2015, 04:50 PM   #426
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A real nice build. I got it in the mail Monday and had it racing Tuesday night at my local track. Complete book stock build. I ordered the 75t spur and some aluminum parts today, so hopefully I have better luck with fedex getting my parts to me, then you guys with your cars. Which sucks. I try to always use priority overnight with fedex as its the fastest and your package us handled with the most care.
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Old 12-09-2015, 04:56 PM   #427
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I heard there was running at madness on tuesday. Lol
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:03 PM   #428
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yup it was mine lol
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:04 PM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franzchise View Post
A real nice build. I got it in the mail Monday and had it racing Tuesday night at my local track. Complete book stock build. I ordered the 75t spur and some aluminum parts today, so hopefully I have better luck with fedex getting my parts to me, then you guys with your cars. Which sucks. I try to always use priority overnight with fedex as its the fastest and your package us handled with the most care.
What aluminum parts did you order? When I called RC America on Monday they said they really didn't have much in the way of option parts in yet.
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:11 PM   #430
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Originally Posted by dway100 View Post
What aluminum parts did you order? When I called RC America on Monday they said they really didn't have much in the way of option parts in yet.
I ordered the servo mounts and some rear uprights for my xb4. Im not sure if they will fit on my xb2. I believe they are compatible.
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:13 PM   #431
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I'm going to look overseas to the same store I got my XB2 to see what they have in stock tomorrow. I just needed to get a 75t spur and decided to get the uprights with it.
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:34 PM   #432
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Received my 2 today
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:13 PM   #433
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Raced mine for the first time today. Car is super good on high bite clay, we run clay slicks and the car had super traction, way more than I was expecting. I ended up stiffening up the springs and oil to decrease weight transfer. Car still needs a few small tweaks because I'm diffing out getting on the power in a few sections, but otherwise it's perfect. Jumps great, rotates well, great forward bite, very predictable.
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:15 PM   #434
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Raced mine for the first time today. Car is super good on high bite clay, we run clay slicks and the car had super traction, way more than I was expecting. I ended up stiffening up the springs and oil to decrease weight transfer. Car still needs a few small tweaks because I'm diffing out getting on the power in a few sections, but otherwise it's perfect. Jumps great, rotates well, great forward bite, very predictable.
That's awesome to hear
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:47 PM   #435
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Any reason you're not running your ABC wires along that wire holder on the passenger side of the car? I notice there isn't a channel down the middle of the chassis for a flat sensor wire... would be nice and clean to run them all down that wire holder?
I wired mine up tonight and even using 13 gauge Reedy wire there isn't enough room in the loops for the ABC wires and the sensor wire too. I ended up putting the 3 wires through and ran the sensor wire along the inside of the ABC wires and shrink wrapped them all together between the wire loops. Looks ok, but I'm not sure if I'll leave it that way, or if I'll run the ABC's more direct and just put the sensor wire through the loops like suby723.

Last edited by dway100; 12-10-2015 at 04:26 AM.
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