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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-31-2016, 07:52 PM   #4321
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How much did it run you to get all the parts needed to swap to 3 gear?
it's about $70-75 (total with shipping) to get all the parts. It's very worth it!
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Old 12-31-2016, 08:26 PM   #4322
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How much did it run you to get all the parts needed to swap to 3 gear?
https://www.absolutehobbyz.com/

About $72 plus shipping

XRA323014 Xray Composite Front-Mid Motor Gear Box (3 Gears) Set $26.50
XRA324012 Xray Aluminum Front-Mid Motor (3 Gears) Plate - Swiss 7075 T6 (3mm) $26.50
XRA324236 Xray Composite Gear 36T - Graphite $8.25
XRA324031 Xray Composite Front-Mid Motor (3 Gears) Plate Brace $7.00
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Old 12-31-2016, 08:27 PM   #4323
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Never mind, found the answer
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Old 01-01-2017, 03:40 AM   #4324
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I sold my old xb4 to get a d413 and I absolutely hated it. The design sucks IMO. The shock towers and bulkheads/diff cases mostly drove me nuts. But there were more than a few things that would have me swearing every time I drove or worked on it. I sold it and bought another Xb4 asap. And from what I can see the d216 is the same basic design. I'd never buy one but that's just me. I'm sure it will be decent, but X-ray is the absolute best 10th scale brand out there IMO.
I've heard that about the 4wd version. They say it's a pain to work on. The two is much easier from what I can tell. I will eventually get an xb4 unless something else better pops up.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:30 AM   #4325
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I've heard that about the 4wd version. They say it's a pain to work on. The two is much easier from what I can tell. I will eventually get an xb4 unless something else better pops up.
Ya I love the xb4. Id probably never buy anything else unless like you said (something else pops up). I'd really like to see a tekno 10th scale buggy. I run their 8th scale stuff and they are very nice.
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:05 PM   #4326
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Ya I love the xb4. Id probably never buy anything else unless like you said (something else pops up). I'd really like to see a tekno 10th scale buggy. I run their 8th scale stuff and they are very nice.
Yes, my Tekno experience has been pretty good. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a kit from them.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:16 AM   #4327
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Yea I agree love my tekno but at the moment my xb4 is great because tekno's doesn't have 4wd 1/10..yet ,easy to work on and durable..just like my tekno's.
But sadly 4wd 1/10 has dropped off at my track so thinking of selling xray xb4 and waiting to try try tekno 410b..
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:23 PM   #4328
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Default build a xb2 2017 carpet

In October 2016 the Xray XB2C`17 was an upgrade of the existing XB2 to the market. Above all, in the rear section, you will find the new features of the current version. Here is part 1 of ansembling.







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Old 01-02-2017, 05:33 PM   #4329
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looking to pick up one of these for carpet. 17 model. how are they compared to the B6?
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:44 PM   #4330
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looking to pick up one of these for carpet. 17 model. how are they compared to the B6?
They are just as competitive as a B6. My son and I both race XB2 CE and we (mostly him, I'm an old fart) have no problem keeping up and beating B6s consistently. IMO, with all the top level cars out today, it really comes down to driver ability.
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:48 PM   #4331
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hahah I'm 44 , I had a b6 I built but sold it, but now there's a new carpet track.

I built a T4 and so impressed with the quality and engineering that I can't consider any other brand. The b6 was a nice kit though.
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:22 AM   #4332
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The XB2 works great on the turf at Beachline. Judging by the EOS results, it's not bad on carpet either.
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:42 AM   #4333
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For those of you that switched from the 4 gear to the 3 gear what was the biggest performance change you noticed. I'm running the '16 with the 4 gear and feel like my buggy is sluggish coming out of corners, thinking going to the 3 gear will help with this.
The 3 gear is sooooo much better as others have commented. Its a huge improvement.
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:07 PM   #4334
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2nd part

It goes further with the construction of the XB2C`17. The new vehicle is a further development which has been modified in some details. On the other hand, tried and tested parts, inter alia, The chassis, the CVD-Kardans, shocktower, wingmount and the front axle of the 16er taken over. There was no reason for Xray to throw the entire concept over the pile. The 17 series is a fne improvement of the vehicle in detail. Today we start with the rear axle.

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Old 01-03-2017, 12:46 PM   #4335
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Hey LKF what are your RR pills at? In that last pic it looks like the dot on both sides are pointing to the right. what setting is that?
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