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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-29-2016, 11:20 AM   #4306
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I hate to say this, but as I build my d216, I kind of regret buying my xb2. The d216 is soo nicely done. I hope track time with both will tell me more about which platform is the better one. Anyone here have both?
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:35 PM   #4307
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x 2
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:41 PM   #4308
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For those of you that switched from the 4 gear to the 3 gear what was the biggest performance change you noticed. I'm running the '16 with the 4 gear and feel like my buggy is sluggish coming out of corners, thinking going to the 3 gear will help with this.
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:59 PM   #4309
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
I hate to say this, but as I build my d216, I kind of regret buying my xb2. The d216 is soo nicely done. I hope track time with both will tell me more about which platform is the better one. Anyone here have both?
You're the first person I've seen admit to buying the d216
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:15 PM   #4310
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For those of you that switched from the 4 gear to the 3 gear what was the biggest performance change you noticed. I'm running the '16 with the 4 gear and feel like my buggy is sluggish coming out of corners, thinking going to the 3 gear will help with this.
The 3 gear was designed to create more corner speeds. You'll love it! Makes the car much better.
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:50 PM   #4311
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You're the first person I've seen admit to buying the d216
X 2 i heard its caca.
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:39 PM   #4312
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
I hate to say this, but as I build my d216, I kind of regret buying my xb2. The d216 is soo nicely done. I hope track time with both will tell me more about which platform is the better one. Anyone here have both?
I've ran both. The D216 isn't an awful car, but it isn't great either. The guy who bought it quit running it not long after buying it.
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Old 12-31-2016, 05:07 AM   #4313
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Originally Posted by EricW View Post
For those of you that switched from the 4 gear to the 3 gear what was the biggest performance change you noticed. I'm running the '16 with the 4 gear and feel like my buggy is sluggish coming out of corners, thinking going to the 3 gear will help with this.
The 3 gear eliminates all the sluggishness. It rotates better, it jumps better, it stops better. I hate to call it a game changer but it takes an already great platform and makes it so so much better. All of these are my opinions, but it's the single best thing you can do for a 2016 car.
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:52 PM   #4314
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The 3 gear will make the car drive flatter, because of that you'll gain corner speed and stability under braking.

If you have a good 16 car already then just consider switching the tranny. A new kit is always nice though.
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Old 12-31-2016, 04:11 PM   #4315
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Originally Posted by EricW View Post
You're the first person I've seen admit to buying the d216
That's funny.. plenty have bought it, actually the price just went up on it at one of the main distributors.

What's there to admit, it's a top quality kit and came with carbon and aluminum shock caps in the box?

My xb2 was nice, but came with a defect out of the box, this kit hasn't shown any thus far.

I'll run both, I'll make honest and objective remarks down the road.
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Old 12-31-2016, 04:13 PM   #4316
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I've ran both. The D216 isn't an awful car, but it isn't great either. The guy who bought it quit running it not long after buying it.
What's holding it back from being a great car? It seems to have plenty of tuning options.
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Old 12-31-2016, 06:28 PM   #4317
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I sold my old xb4 to get a d413 and I absolutely hated it. The design sucks IMO. The shock towers and bulkheads/diff cases mostly drove me nuts. But there were more than a few things that would have me swearing every time I drove or worked on it. I sold it and bought another Xb4 asap. And from what I can see the d216 is the same basic design. I'd never buy one but that's just me. I'm sure it will be decent, but X-ray is the absolute best 10th scale brand out there IMO.
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Old 12-31-2016, 07:18 PM   #4318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Medium Grip:

- shocks on rear of arm
- brass RF hanger (exotek is heavier but X-ray will do but less weight and expensive
- can also add sticky weight under gearbox
- lay shock down inner hole on rear shock tower if not getting enough traction. That helps a lot at the expense of rotation
- pills located facing down for lower roll center
- X-ray carbon chassis helps but only the X-ray version. Exotek is stiffer than stock
- can take a few screws out if the waterfall for extra flex and tape your battery in remove battery strap.


I'd start with the brass RF hanger, then laying shock down, then weight under gearbox followed by the rest. Always a trade off as each will compromise steering
Hey just looking back at this advice for setting up for clay with my carpet car. What will running the arms on the rear of the tower do for the car? More traction like that?
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Old 12-31-2016, 07:42 PM   #4319
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The 3 gear eliminates all the sluggishness. It rotates better, it jumps better, it stops better. I hate to call it a game changer but it takes an already great platform and makes it so so much better. All of these are my opinions, but it's the single best thing you can do for a 2016 car.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
The 3 gear will make the car drive flatter, because of that you'll gain corner speed and stability under braking.

If you have a good 16 car already then just consider switching the tranny. A new kit is always nice though.
My '16 is pretty damn good right now, just feel my corner speed isnt where it should be. I'm got the 3 gear on order, should be here on Tuesday hopefully.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 12-31-2016, 07:49 PM   #4320
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Originally Posted by EricW View Post
Thanks



My '16 is pretty damn good right now, just feel my corner speed isnt where it should be. I'm got the 3 gear on order, should be here on Tuesday hopefully.

Thanks for the input.
How much did it run you to get all the parts needed to swap to 3 gear?
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