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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-18-2016, 09:14 PM   #4261
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Steering and handling with this buggy is so much better with the brass front suspension hanger! But, wish I drove mod. 40 grams is too much to push around in stock. Btw - if anyone wants to trade an aluminum one lmk
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Old 12-18-2016, 09:22 PM   #4262
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Steering and handling with this buggy is so much better with the brass front suspension hanger! But, wish I drove mod. 40 grams is too much to push around in stock. Btw - if anyone wants to trade an aluminum one lmk
Did you try your car with 3gear laydown?
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Old 12-18-2016, 09:39 PM   #4263
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Yeah, I like it a lot. Just not as much steering as my rb6.6 but much easier to drive
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:27 PM   #4264
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Steering and handling with this buggy is so much better with the brass front suspension hanger! But, wish I drove mod. 40 grams is too much to push around in stock. Btw - if anyone wants to trade an aluminum one lmk
why not drive MOD with it and your RB6.6 stock.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:32 PM   #4265
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Default front sway bar???

any body willing to share PN's on what was used to make your front sway bar?? I need one bad on my buggy!!!
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:35 AM   #4266
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Yeah, I like it a lot. Just not as much steering as my rb6.6 but much easier to drive
Post your setup, I'm sure we can get more steering out of it...
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:34 AM   #4267
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Uploaded setup picture as PDF File too big. Thx!

Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Post your setup, I'm sure we can get more steering out of it...
Attached Thumbnails
Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-xb2-setup.png  
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:39 AM   #4268
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Uploaded setup picture as PDF File too big. Thx!
I'm having a hard time reading the pdf.. where are you looking for more steering, on power or off, turn in or exit?
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:44 AM   #4269
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Mid corner to exit even on low speed steering. Notable changes from kit above are 0 slot ackerman plates. Running 1.6 1.7 pistons with 32.5 weight all around. 2mm limiters front shocks. 3 degrees toe, 3 degrees anti squat (pills are middle middle front, and inner lower rear). Long bushings on the top of front spindle... found this to have sharper steering. 25 degree kickup with 2.5 caster
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:08 PM   #4270
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Mid corner to exit even on low speed steering. Notable changes from kit above are 0 slot ackerman plates. Running 1.6 1.7 pistons with 32.5 weight all around. 2mm limiters front shocks. 3 degrees toe, 3 degrees anti squat (pills are middle middle front, and inner lower rear). Long bushings on the top of front spindle... found this to have sharper steering. 25 degree kickup with 2.5 caster
Have you tried raising the rear roll center at the hinge pins? that would free up the rear end a good bit.. try 1dot up FR and 1dot in RR
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Last edited by symmetricon; 12-19-2016 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 12-19-2016, 01:51 PM   #4271
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I did. My track is super high grip, but they didn't pack the last layout well so it was super bumpy. Raising the hinge pins caused me to skip around a lot in the sweeper with all the golf ball type divits
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:03 PM   #4272
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I did. My track is super high grip, but they didn't pack the last layout well so it was super bumpy. Raising the hinge pins caused me to skip around a lot in the sweeper with all the golf ball type divits
Ok, have you tried shortening the camber links or reducing rear toe to 2.5 deg? I run on a high bite track and the current layout is tight, I prefer having short front and rear links...
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Old 12-19-2016, 04:33 PM   #4273
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I haven't tried shortening the front links yet... Hmm. Tried the rear without the front a long time ago. Liked the turn in but buggy seemed to have strange flow to the whole range of the turn, and also lost a little traction. albeit this was with the dirt edition. I love them short on the front of another buggy. Felt a lot more locked in. Regarding toe, I felt 3 was the minimum with the bumps recently on my track... thx for the suggestion! I almost sold the buggy before adding the zero slot ackerman arms which gave me just enough to keep, given the buggy was so easy to drive. Lap times are fine in qualifying heats, but in races there are are few tight corners where i can get taken on the inside line. Regarding the front links, is it preblematic to have short links on front but longer links on the rear? thx sir
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:50 PM   #4274
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I haven't tried shortening the front links yet... Hmm. Tried the rear without the front a long time ago. Liked the turn in but buggy seemed to have strange flow to the whole range of the turn, and also lost a little traction. albeit this was with the dirt edition. I love them short on the front of another buggy. Felt a lot more locked in. Regarding toe, I felt 3 was the minimum with the bumps recently on my track... thx for the suggestion! I almost sold the buggy before adding the zero slot ackerman arms which gave me just enough to keep, given the buggy was so easy to drive. Lap times are fine in qualifying heats, but in races there are are few tight corners where i can get taken on the inside line. Regarding the front links, is it preblematic to have short links on front but longer links on the rear? thx sir
Yeah, I don't like going less than 3 deg of toe... Also, with this car I have found I prefer shorter links front and rear, it helps the car stay flatter and make it more reactive. And also adding the aluminum rear hubs allows you to shorten the wheelbase which help the car rotate better and it also make the car more reactive.

It was confirmed to me that the xb2 aluminum rear hubs allow for an additional 2mm of shimming, the same as the xb4 hub. I would use the XB2 hubs so it isn't necessary to widen the track with to keep the drivehaft ends from bottoming out in the diff outdrives...
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:55 PM   #4275
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Uploaded setup picture as PDF File too big. Thx!
Have you tried putting your rear lower shock location to the 1 position? Also, the rear sway-bar kit would definitely help with steering. Sorry if I missed this but are you currently running 3 gear laydown, if so are your rear shocks mounter front or rear?
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