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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-09-2016, 12:51 PM   #4201
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There is lots of room with MKS low profile servo...this thing is a work of art. I couldn't find my servo locating washers, these screws will do for now.

Here are some pics so guys can get an idea on the electronics bay capacity.
Attached Thumbnails
Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-20161209_123412.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-20161209_124323.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-20161209_124554.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-20161209_124617.jpg  
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:51 PM   #4202
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shock rebuild stuff
Eclips - I've had 2 break
Orings

Be careful not to overscrew your shocks into the arms. They don't need to be screwed in too hard. A few overturns and they are stripped and you will need to replace an arm. I say this as doesn't look like you're ordering rear arms and i've done that twice with an electric screwdriver at the lowest torque setting

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
front arms
roll center holders (get alum)
ball cups

you rly dont need anything on this car but those are the only parts iv ever broke or worn out in over a year.
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:53 PM   #4203
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Lyons, have you found the optimal servo horn position or does straight up do fine?

Thanks
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:55 PM   #4204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
shock rebuild stuff
Eclips - I've had 2 break
Orings

Be careful not to overscrew your shocks into the arms. They don't need to be screwed in too hard. A few overturns and they are stripped and you will need to replace an arm. I say this as doesn't look like you're ordering rear arms and i've done that twice with an electric screwdriver at the lowest torque setting
this is true but i've never had a problem. since it only takes a few turns i do it by hand. i wouldnt order arms for this reason if you know not to go too tight. but this is the same for every car on the market really.
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:01 PM   #4205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
Lyons, have you found the optimal servo horn position or does straight up do fine?

Thanks
you always want your servo horn to run centered - i actually have that same servo. you want to center the horn the best you can by turning the servo on and placing the horn as centered as possible. then use your radio with sub trim and center it all the way. then when you build the steering link put a 1mm ball stud washer between the two eyelet ends and then use 1mm under the ball stud on the steering plate that holds the link. and then i used washers under the ball stud connecting to the servo horn as to make the link completely parallel for equal steering throw. i use the hudy servo horn - you probly don't have to do that with the plastic servo horns because they're thicker.
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:22 PM   #4206
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Cool. Was curious... it's off center on one of my on road cars, so in wasn't sure on this. Good taste on the servo!

All shims and the build is complete as directed by factory manual. These servo units are short on the face compared to others, I may have to shim the servo face to get geometry correct.

Thanks for the input!
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:29 PM   #4207
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I didn't see any alignment settings in the box, the manual setting looks pretty close to a baseline out of the box. I feel strange not having a droop setting and the springs seem kinda long. What are you guys running on packed and maintained clay?
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:14 PM   #4208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
I didn't see any alignment settings in the box, the manual setting looks pretty close to a baseline out of the box. I feel strange not having a droop setting and the springs seem kinda long. What are you guys running on packed and maintained clay?
2mm internal limiters in the front shocks to limit droop. 0 limiters in rear shocks. these cars have a lot of front droop and little rear droop so this makes things perfect on indoor clay tracks.

also for the servo - you dont need any shims on the servo itself, just potentially shims between the ball stud and the servo horn - i recommend an alum servo horn.

good luck. PM me if you have any questions - i know these cars in and out.
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:23 PM   #4209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
2mm internal limiters in the front shocks to limit droop. 0 limiters in rear shocks. these cars have a lot of front droop and little rear droop so this makes things perfect on indoor clay tracks.

also for the servo - you dont need any shims on the servo itself, just potentially shims between the ball stud and the servo horn - i recommend an alum servo horn.

good luck. PM me if you have any questions - i know these cars in and out.
do you have a good set up for rcm carpet track? ever since i switch to my 2017 ive been getting my a$$ kicked..
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:39 PM   #4210
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..

Last edited by mourinho; 12-09-2016 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:14 PM   #4211
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I too cannot stress the importance of running limiters in the front.

Forgot to mention on replacement parts. In 8 months I haven't broken an arm. They are ridiculously strong.For me the shock shaft went first. Full speed down a straight I sneezed and hit the wall full wack
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
2mm internal limiters in the front shocks to limit droop. 0 limiters in rear shocks. these cars have a lot of front droop and little rear droop so this makes things perfect on indoor clay tracks.

also for the servo - you dont need any shims on the servo itself, just potentially shims between the ball stud and the servo horn - i recommend an alum servo horn.

good luck. PM me if you have any questions - i know these cars in and out.
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:03 PM   #4212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
No one has answered about the loose shock eyelets...

Am I the only one with this problem?
Make sure you are not over tightening the shock end.
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:12 PM   #4213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
2mm internal limiters in the front shocks to limit droop. 0 limiters in rear shocks. these cars have a lot of front droop and little rear droop so this makes things perfect on indoor clay tracks.

also for the servo - you dont need any shims on the servo itself, just potentially shims between the ball stud and the servo horn - i recommend an alum servo horn.

good luck. PM me if you have any questions - i know these cars in and out.
so Stephen .. if I run lower limiters like 1mm or even 0 limiters in front, would that make the buggy jump "wing high" / "nose down" all the time?
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:17 PM   #4214
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I took all the limiters out of my front shocks. I was running 2mm in the front but I wanted the car to nose down a little more in the air of jumps
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:19 PM   #4215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
I took all the limiters out of my front shocks. I was running 2mm in the front but I wanted the car to nose down a little more in the air of jumps
did it help a lot?
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