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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-07-2016, 09:26 AM   #4156
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i found the alum steering plate to be a little more consistent and precise with steering - it took away some of the soft steering feel and made it more aggressive. i think the performance is good but im just wondering if anyone thinks it's an issue for stripping servos. also if anyone thinks the plate in alum with plastic steering arms is the way to go like i do?

has anyone ever broke the plastic steering plate? I've broke the composite roll center holders and since have switched to alum. but im still not sure which steering rack parts to run.

we were talking about the steering rack though, not the outer blocks. but thanks for your info.
Yeah, my comment was a general overview of my car last weekend. Super impressed with the XB2 '17 CE and winning the first weekend out with it was a nice bonus.

As for the steering rack, I would consider replacing the steering plate with the alum option, but as you said it tightens things up and can make steering twitchy. I am going with the Hudy alum servo horn, but thats a personal preference. As for stripping servos, I don't think this will be an issue in dirt off-road. Although it could be an issue when running carpet off-road. I haven't run much carpet off-road, but I've run for over a decade without a servo saver on dirt off-road and not stripped a single servo.
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Old 12-07-2016, 11:29 AM   #4157
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
what is your driving experience? what cars and motors? are you talented like mid to front of pack of a mains on club/trophy races?

i'd say if you run mod in your other classes and you're comfortable with that and you have experience with other 2wd mod cars - go mod. stock will just make your mod cars feel extremely fast and it can kind of mess with you.

if you don't have much experience and run stock with other classes or previously just run stock. 2wd buggy in mod is hard to control and stock can teach you how to drive well and it inspires confidence you can always move up to mod down the road.
Historically just a basher with some small weekend track build meet-ups. No real track experience other than running some practice recently with one of my monster trucks.

I've always had the fastest of the fast, so I hear what you're saying. I'll have to make a decision soon. I may pick something up tonight.

I'm currently looking over the car and trying to figure out hudy oil vs associated and losi types. I don't want to get raped on the hudy accessories.

I notice my shock eyelets have some play, the rest of the car is as snug and tight as could be without binding. Are your xray cars the same?

Btw, thanks for the advice.
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Old 12-07-2016, 11:33 AM   #4158
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Historically just a basher with some small weekend track build meet-ups. No real track experience other than running some practice recently with one of my monster trucks.

I've always had the fastest of the fast, so I hear what you're saying. I'll have to make a decision soon. I may pick something up tonight.

I'm currently looking over the car and trying to figure out hudy oil vs associated and losi types. I don't want to get raped on the hudy accessories.

I notice my shock eyelets have some play, the rest of the car is as snug and tight as could be without binding. Are your xray cars the same?

Btw, thanks for the advice.
i would go with a high quality stock motor (one of the brands i listed above) - racing and bashing is totally different and stock motor in a 2wd buggy isnt a slouch it's actually amazing indoor. you'll be far better off with better control, faster learning, less maintenance breakage and wear, etc...

i would also opt for the hudy oils. AE and Losi oils go by weight and weight is arbitrary, it differes from company to company. the way hudy measures viscosity is by CST like it should be, a real linear measurement. this means it's easier deciding what to use because you understand the values. plus many xray setups are done in cst. plus hudy oils are amazing. they last a long time and they just feel super smooth. smoother than any other oil i have tried. once you get stocked up it's not too expensive. just costs a bit more up front, but once you have a bunch of oils replacing 1 bottle every few months is nothing. xray is like that in general. at first theyre expensive but then once youve had them for a long time you barely ever have to replace parts and you have a stock of extras anyway.
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Old 12-07-2016, 11:42 AM   #4159
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AE oil has the CST listed on the bottle. The Hudy oil is great, but AE oil works just fine.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:24 PM   #4160
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AE oil has the CST listed on the bottle. The Hudy oil is great, but AE oil works just fine.
yeah im sure it is. i just think the hudy oils are worth it IMO. i can absolutely tell they're premium oils, esp compared to losi. theyre just extremely consistent, long lasting, and smooth.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:27 PM   #4161
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Yeah, my comment was a general overview of my car last weekend. Super impressed with the XB2 '17 CE and winning the first weekend out with it was a nice bonus.

As for the steering rack, I would consider replacing the steering plate with the alum option, but as you said it tightens things up and can make steering twitchy. I am going with the Hudy alum servo horn, but thats a personal preference. As for stripping servos, I don't think this will be an issue in dirt off-road. Although it could be an issue when running carpet off-road. I haven't run much carpet off-road, but I've run for over a decade without a servo saver on dirt off-road and not stripped a single servo.
i've stripped tons of servos off road, mostly on 4wd (even with a servo saver).

idk why ppl replace the composite steering arms with alum - the steering arms seem incredibly beefy, but light. i think those are awesome. but the plate def seems a bit more soft and makes more sense to replace. just not sure if it would be better or worse than the stock composite for med-high bite clay tracks.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:43 PM   #4162
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Any interested aluminum steering plate $25 shipped also i have ball diff and gear diff let me know if anyone interested since i sold my xb2 no longer need this. I'm very happy with my B6D.
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Old 12-07-2016, 01:16 PM   #4163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i would go with a high quality stock motor (one of the brands i listed above) - racing and bashing is totally different and stock motor in a 2wd buggy isnt a slouch it's actually amazing indoor. you'll be far better off with better control, faster learning, less maintenance breakage and wear, etc...

i would also opt for the hudy oils. AE and Losi oils go by weight and weight is arbitrary, it differes from company to company. the way hudy measures viscosity is by CST like it should be, a real linear measurement. this means it's easier deciding what to use because you understand the values. plus many xray setups are done in cst. plus hudy oils are amazing. they last a long time and they just feel super smooth. smoother than any other oil i have tried. once you get stocked up it's not too expensive. just costs a bit more up front, but once you have a bunch of oils replacing 1 bottle every few months is nothing. xray is like that in general. at first theyre expensive but then once youve had them for a long time you barely ever have to replace parts and you have a stock of extras anyway.
Stock motor will definitely be easier and smoother.. I'm thinking something a bit more, maybe a 13.5T or in that neighborhood. It looks like I'm set on a HW XR10 deal and one of their motors. I have good local support and availability. Looks like I can get both high end items for a about $250ish.

As for the oils, if the bottles of hudy stuff were bigger, I might consider it. I've used AE oils for many years, never had an issue with it. They are made local, IIRC Lucas makes it for AE. They are a semi-reputable company IMO.

I found several debriefing blogs where folks have done some major homework. If they are fairly accurate, I will be able to get a baseline close to the stock 400 and 500cst fluid. I can then go from there and make any adjustments. I have to go back in, anyway, I don't particularly like the rebound (they pull in slightly) my shocks have at the moment. I like the bladder type and have much more control and experience setting them up.

As for a hudy accessory product that was remarkable and that I'd consider buying, the graphite silicone grease fits this bill. I was fairly impressed.
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Old 12-07-2016, 01:34 PM   #4164
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
Stock motor will definitely be easier and smoother.. I'm thinking something a bit more, maybe a 13.5T or in that neighborhood. It looks like I'm set on a HW XR10 deal and one of their motors. I have good local support and availability. Looks like I can get both high end items for a about $250ish.

As for the oils, if the bottles of hudy stuff were bigger, I might consider it. I've used AE oils for many years, never had an issue with it. They are made local, IIRC Lucas makes it for AE. They are a semi-reputable company IMO.

I found several debriefing blogs where folks have done some major homework. If they are fairly accurate, I will be able to get a baseline close to the stock 400 and 500cst fluid. I can then go from there and make any adjustments. I have to go back in, anyway, I don't particularly like the rebound (they pull in slightly) my shocks have at the moment. I like the bladder type and have much more control and experience setting them up.

As for a hudy accessory product that was remarkable and that I'd consider buying, the graphite silicone grease fits this bill. I was fairly impressed.
yeah honestly all hudy and xray stuff is second to none. i dont use any aftermarket things on my cars just xray/hudy option parts.

as for the 13.5 that will be fine but then you have to race in the mod class and will just get beat. id still recommend getting a good 17.5t motor to be quite honest.

and yes sometimes emulsion shocks can be a pain when you're used to bladder-type. what i do is use one of those shock pumps and i pump the air out of the oil. so no bubbles are there. and i bleed the shocks twice as to have no rebound/suck (at least until air is pushed in from use).
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Old 12-07-2016, 03:26 PM   #4165
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what are you guys using for gearing for 17.5 on a tight high grip carpet track??
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:36 PM   #4166
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what are you guys using for gearing for 17.5 on a tight high grip carpet track??
i dont run stock but most i see run 32/69
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:48 PM   #4167
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what are you guys using for gearing for 17.5 on a tight high grip carpet track??
29/69
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:24 AM   #4168
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you cant get a 29/69 to even mesh up.. i use a 33/69, i think the smallest is 32 or 31.. i will double check.
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:12 AM   #4169
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I run 75/29-30 on super hi grip clay
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:49 AM   #4170
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Originally Posted by busaandy View Post
what are you guys using for gearing for 17.5 on a tight high grip carpet track??
I run 31 or 32/69 on those conditions with great success. 31 is the gear most of the time. 32 gets me a little warmer that I like.
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