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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-05-2016, 02:28 PM   #4141
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Quote:
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Anyone see the news about potential moves by some of the top drivers? Been hearing rumors about some moving to XRay in the U.S.........
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Old 12-05-2016, 02:30 PM   #4142
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Keep hearing that Tessman rumor a lot lately.
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Old 12-05-2016, 04:04 PM   #4143
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It would be worth every penny for xray to sign tessman. Sales would sky rocket here in the states.
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:08 PM   #4144
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Default Aluminum steering posts and plate

Had the plastic for 6 months no issues with breakage or wear. Anyone actually notice a difference in performance of the aluminum
? It's expensive. What's the result?
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Old 12-05-2016, 11:22 PM   #4145
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So I'm running all kit '17 CE steering parts. I had the perfect amount of steering with front steering blocks down and rear shocks forward. However, in the main the track got a bit greasy and it was a bit too loose. So I'm going to put the rear shocks back and try the 0* inserts in the front C hubs. And play with adding or removing washers from the center steering rack
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:10 AM   #4146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Had the plastic for 6 months no issues with breakage or wear. Anyone actually notice a difference in performance of the aluminum
? It's expensive. What's the result?
i found the alum steering plate to be a little more consistent and precise with steering - it took away some of the soft steering feel and made it more aggressive. i think the performance is good but im just wondering if anyone thinks it's an issue for stripping servos. also if anyone thinks the plate in alum with plastic steering arms is the way to go like i do?

has anyone ever broke the plastic steering plate? I've broke the composite roll center holders and since have switched to alum. but im still not sure which steering rack parts to run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBMaster View Post
So I'm running all kit '17 CE steering parts. I had the perfect amount of steering with front steering blocks down and rear shocks forward. However, in the main the track got a bit greasy and it was a bit too loose. So I'm going to put the rear shocks back and try the 0* inserts in the front C hubs. And play with adding or removing washers from the center steering rack
we were talking about the steering rack though, not the outer blocks. but thanks for your info.
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:33 AM   #4147
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Mine is coming together.. I need suggestions on a motor/esc. Not sure on what direction to go... was thinking HW. At first reedy, but my recent customer service experience has turned me away from their products.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:14 PM   #4148
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
Mine is coming together.. I need suggestions on a motor/esc. Not sure on what direction to go... was thinking HW. At first reedy, but my recent customer service experience has turned me away from their products.
I run the XR10 pro (coming from the Tekin RSX) and I love it so much. HW has my favorite ESCS. i also run the HW 2nd gen v10 motor and it is equally as good, the combo is extremely smooth, quiet, powerful, tuneable, and overall has excellent performance. I would def recommend the combo for mod. if running stock I would run the HW ESC and a good known stock motor like the reedy mach 3, or fantom motors, or trinity, or maclan, or schurrspeed, r1wurks, or motiv.
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:30 PM   #4149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
I run the XR10 pro (coming from the Tekin RSX) and I love it so much. HW has my favorite ESCS. i also run the HW 2nd gen v10 motor and it is equally as good, the combo is extremely smooth, quiet, powerful, tuneable, and overall has excellent performance. I would def recommend the combo for mod. if running stock I would run the HW ESC and a good known stock motor like the reedy mach 3, or fantom motors, or trinity, or maclan, or schurrspeed, r1wurks, or motiv.
Great info, thanks man. Need to decide stock or mod and go from there.
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:31 PM   #4150
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I'm building my shocks and notice the instructions show 2 and 3 hole pistons. I got 2 sizes of 2 hole pistons. Any of you guys get any different?

Last edited by mustangkillaz; 12-06-2016 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:34 PM   #4151
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Smaller 2 hole front larger 2 hole rear (1.6 / 1.7)
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I'm building my shocks and notice the instructions show 2 and 3 hole pistons. I got 2 sizes of 2 hole pistons. Any of you guys get any different?
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:25 PM   #4152
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Quote:
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Smaller 2 hole front larger 2 hole rear (1.6 / 1.7)
Thanks. Apparently, a revision not yet corrected in the book.

Car is all done now! Time for peripheral gear...

Servo will be here tomorrow. I'll motor/esc ship tonight. I have a new receiver sitting idle. Still haven't decided on mod or stock class motor.
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:06 AM   #4153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
Thanks. Apparently, a revision not yet corrected in the book.

Car is all done now! Time for peripheral gear...

Servo will be here tomorrow. I'll motor/esc ship tonight. I have a new receiver sitting idle. Still haven't decided on mod or stock class motor.
what is your driving experience? what cars and motors? are you talented like mid to front of pack of a mains on club/trophy races?

i'd say if you run mod in your other classes and you're comfortable with that and you have experience with other 2wd mod cars - go mod. stock will just make your mod cars feel extremely fast and it can kind of mess with you.

if you don't have much experience and run stock with other classes or previously just run stock. 2wd buggy in mod is hard to control and stock can teach you how to drive well and it inspires confidence you can always move up to mod down the road.
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Old 12-07-2016, 07:16 AM   #4154
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Question regarding the carbon steering plate pieces. If I switch to the 1 or 0 slot plates do I need to adjust the turnbuckle lengths or do I leave them at the length the manual says? Wasn't sure how that will effect toe if I leave them at the same length as when I was running the 2 slot plates.
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Old 12-07-2016, 07:29 AM   #4155
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Question regarding the carbon steering plate pieces. If I switch to the 1 or 0 slot plates do I need to adjust the turnbuckle lengths or do I leave them at the length the manual says? Wasn't sure how that will effect toe if I leave them at the same length as when I was running the 2 slot plates.
it will affect toe a little bit think about it youre changing the angle of the links therefore a different distance is required.

just use your eyes or a gauge to reset toe after install it's not a big deal you don't need a set length to go by.
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