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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-01-2016, 10:20 AM   #4111
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Not gonna lie, I was very nervous taking my '17 CE to the track last night. I had issues getting my 22 3.0 lay down working on our med grip indoor trac. However, this thing was a freaking beast, absolutely love the car. First off the only non kit part I choose to go with was the CF chassis. With this and my setup they car already handles better than my buddy's '16 DE!

I don't believe the car needs the brass rear hangars or the optional steering block extensions. The car has a few tuning options I'd like to explore, but I can tell you I'm running the gear diff with 5k oil without any issues. The big key I've found with running a gear diff on a loose or med grip track it to run a much looser slipper than normal. As with other cars I've had to pre-compress the slipper spring to be able to get to this setting. I'll be putting together a setup sheet for everyone after this weekend's race, but in the mean time feel free to ask any questions and get your kits on order!
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:22 AM   #4112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBMaster View Post
Not gonna lie, I was very nervous taking my '17 CE to the track last night. I had issues getting my 22 3.0 lay down working on our med grip indoor trac. However, this thing was a freaking beast, absolutely love the car. First off the only non kit part I choose to go with was the CF chassis. With this and my setup they car already handles better than my buddy's '16 DE!

I don't believe the car needs the brass rear hangars or the optional steering block extensions. The car has a few tuning options I'd like to explore, but I can tell you I'm running the gear diff with 5k oil without any issues. The big key I've found with running a gear diff on a loose or med grip track it to run a much looser slipper than normal. As with other cars I've had to pre-compress the slipper spring to be able to get to this setting. I'll be putting together a setup sheet for everyone after this weekend's race, but in the mean time feel free to ask any questions and get your kits on order!
i prefer alum chassis indoor on clay with medium plastics. CF chassis can be good outdoors but to each their own i suppose.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:49 PM   #4113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBMaster View Post
Not gonna lie, I was very nervous taking my '17 CE to the track last night. I had issues getting my 22 3.0 lay down working on our med grip indoor trac. However, this thing was a freaking beast, absolutely love the car. First off the only non kit part I choose to go with was the CF chassis. With this and my setup they car already handles better than my buddy's '16 DE!

I don't believe the car needs the brass rear hangars or the optional steering block extensions. The car has a few tuning options I'd like to explore, but I can tell you I'm running the gear diff with 5k oil without any issues. The big key I've found with running a gear diff on a loose or med grip track it to run a much looser slipper than normal. As with other cars I've had to pre-compress the slipper spring to be able to get to this setting. I'll be putting together a setup sheet for everyone after this weekend's race, but in the mean time feel free to ask any questions and get your kits on order!
I came from the 3.0 laydown as well, and had the same experience as you, my car is all stock except I added the ball diff
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:36 PM   #4114
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I got my nephew a xb2 for xmass. He is new to racing. What is a good pinion and spur for a 17.5 motor on small indoor track.
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:54 PM   #4115
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72 spur and 30-33 pinion is a good range for me. 30 is the smalles that will fit with a 72 spur with the CE.... also, depends how old your nephew is. If my kid was driving my X-ray I would probably get the 75t spur as it allows pinions smaller than 30. I gear my kids motor low as he does t need to go fast right now and unattended he will practice with the buggy for over 15 minutes. I can be comfortable knowing he's not blowing up his motor geared low and the 72 spur may not allow you to gear low enough. That said I've also run some of my fastest laps at 75/29 on a tight high grip, technical track... my 2 cents...
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I got my nephew a xb2 for xmass. He is new to racing. What is a good pinion and spur for a 17.5 motor on small indoor track.
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Old 12-02-2016, 01:12 AM   #4116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
72 spur and 30-33 pinion is a good range for me. 30 is the smalles that will fit with a 72 spur with the CE.... also, depends how old your nephew is. If my kid was driving my X-ray I would probably get the 75t spur as it allows pinions smaller than 30. I gear my kids motor low as he does t need to go fast right now and unattended he will practice with the buggy for over 15 minutes. I can be comfortable knowing he's not blowing up his motor geared low and the 72 spur may not allow you to gear low enough. That said I've also run some of my fastest laps at 75/29 on a tight high grip, technical track... my 2 cents...
Thanks
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:45 AM   #4117
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Ran mine last week... driver was average but car came out good especially after a few tuning tweaks during the qualifiers. The main difference I've seen with the MM3 is that throttling out of lino-based corners is VERY tricky and requires a feather-like index, from memory the MM4 was a bit less sensitive in that area. But, conversely, braking stability is superb, which was a weak point for the MM4...

I have to say that I've also been VERY impressed with the b6M that day and was tempted to make the switch, but I resisted. Will keep running the xb2 for another few races at least.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:49 AM   #4118
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Have you tried adjusting your ESC to smooth out the power?
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:04 AM   #4119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i prefer alum chassis indoor on clay with medium plastics. CF chassis can be good outdoors but to each their own i suppose.
Why is that?
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:09 AM   #4120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
I came from the 3.0 laydown as well, and had the same experience as you, my car is all stock except I added the ball diff
I'd encourage you to give the gear diff a shot. Just remember the gears don't slip like the balls do, so you have to run the slipper a lot loser than you're used to our even comfortable with. As you get the hang of it, tighten the slipper up and you'll see how big of a difference it can make. Great news is the XB2s 3 pad slipper kicks in very fast
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:28 AM   #4121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBMaster View Post
I'd encourage you to give the gear diff a shot. Just remember the gears don't slip like the balls do, so you have to run the slipper a lot loser than you're used to our even comfortable with. As you get the hang of it, tighten the slipper up and you'll see how big of a difference it can make. Great news is the XB2s 3 pad slipper kicks in very fast
this doesnt make sense. with a ball diff you want to run the slipper looser so you don't slip and bark the ball diff. with a gear diff you can run the slipper tighter because you don't have this risk. so in the case of a gear diff you're tuning the slipper simply for the surface and you're preference only. with the ball diff your factoring those in as well as the force it takes to slip the ball diff and run it looser than that point, so the slipper slips first.
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:11 AM   #4122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
72 spur and 30-33 pinion is a good range for me. 30 is the smalles that will fit with a 72 spur with the CE.... also, depends how old your nephew is. If my kid was driving my X-ray I would probably get the 75t spur as it allows pinions smaller than 30. I gear my kids motor low as he does t need to go fast right now and unattended he will practice with the buggy for over 15 minutes. I can be comfortable knowing he's not blowing up his motor geared low and the 72 spur may not allow you to gear low enough. That said I've also run some of my fastest laps at 75/29 on a tight high grip, technical track... my 2 cents...
Also don't you need the slipper eliminator for the 72 and 69 x-ray gears?
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:49 AM   #4123
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
this doesnt make sense. with a ball diff you want to run the slipper looser so you don't slip and bark the ball diff. with a gear diff you can run the slipper tighter because you don't have this risk. so in the case of a gear diff you're tuning the slipper simply for the surface and you're preference only. with the ball diff your factoring those in as well as the force it takes to slip the ball diff and run it looser than that point, so the slipper slips first.
Yes, I def agree that this is counter intuitive. With the gear diff you can definitely run the slipper tighter, if you have the traction to do so. I dunno how y'all set slipper tension, but normally we set it so that it just pulls the front wheels off the table. Its enough to keep the car from going wheelie crazy when the grip comes up, but has a tenancy to be a bit rough on a ball diff. While the gear diff essentially cannot slip that allowance we didn't normally account for needs to be added into the slipper. Especially as you go out on lower traction surfaces.

Basically, the issue with running a slipper tight with a gear diff is that it shocks the drive line and you're either going to wear out driveline parts quicker or the tires will break loose. Like when you start replacing plastic parts that break with the aluminum part; the next weakest part will break.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:04 AM   #4124
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Are there any other Wheels out there that work for the Xb2? front and rear?

Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:42 AM   #4125
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster View Post
Yes, I def agree that this is counter intuitive. With the gear diff you can definitely run the slipper tighter, if you have the traction to do so. I dunno how y'all set slipper tension, but normally we set it so that it just pulls the front wheels off the table. Its enough to keep the car from going wheelie crazy when the grip comes up, but has a tenancy to be a bit rough on a ball diff. While the gear diff essentially cannot slip that allowance we didn't normally account for needs to be added into the slipper. Especially as you go out on lower traction surfaces.

Basically, the issue with running a slipper tight with a gear diff is that it shocks the drive line and you're either going to wear out driveline parts quicker or the tires will break loose. Like when you start replacing plastic parts that break with the aluminum part; the next weakest part will break.
yeah, but my point was just that you don't need to run the slipper looser with a gear diff than a ball diff. you don't account for the ball diff to slip when setting the slipper. you set the ball diff so it's properly tight and smooth and so the ball diff will never slip and so you have proper traction.

with a gear diff you're not worried about the diff slipping so you simply set it for traction which never ends up looser than a slipper on a ball diff, if anything it would be the same or tighter. that's the point i was making but i digress doesn't really matter anyway. carry on.
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