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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 11-29-2016, 06:05 PM   #4096
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Originally Posted by BigBrute_347 View Post
Got a 17 CE on the way. Any good setup tips for med-high bite hard packed dirt? Am I a fool for trying the gear diff? Are many using the extended shock eyelets?
No I liked the gear diff better as it made rounder corners. Yes I'm using the 21mm in the rear. This is my setup. Im also using the brass rear arm holders.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:19 PM   #4097
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Originally Posted by BigBrute_347 View Post
Got a 17 CE on the way. Any good setup tips for med-high bite hard packed dirt? Am I a fool for trying the gear diff? Are many using the extended shock eyelets?
Gear diff is great for getting out of the corners on power faster.

I tired the 21mm shock eyelets on the front and they take away steering. They add too much droop. Just use them on the rear like Ethan said.
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:31 PM   #4098
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Originally Posted by xray lover View Post
No I liked the gear diff better as it made rounder corners. Yes I'm using the 21mm in the rear. This is my setup. Im also using the brass rear arm holders.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
Thanks! Coming from a B5M I noted your relatively high shock oil, rear toe, camber and low ride height. I'll definitely keep your setup handy!
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:46 AM   #4099
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hey fellas,

so i just wanted to confirm the 3 gear laydown is definitely better for me on med-high bite clay where slicks or worn in electrons are best. i did however have to add some weight in the rear by simply purchasing the exotek brass RF suspension hanger and I ran the exotek RR beefy hanger because it was heavier than the stock 17' hanger. I then added 10g more of stick weights under the transmission right against the RF hanger.

this added weight with my existing/previous 4 gear laydown clay setup gave me the perfect car IMO. i can now rotate and throttle in corners much more than previously and i now actually have more traction when coming out of corners i dont have to wait for the car to pitch back after coasting through corners anymore. with the added weight i notice little to no less forward bite and as i said i actually have more forward bite directly out of corners and thats the most important and only time the car wants to slide anyway.

lastly the biggest improvement has been the more stable and straight braking. the car wanted to spin out upon heavy braking at the end of a straight where now it is MUCH more controllable. in general the 3 gear makes the car much more stable and confidence inspiring where the 4 gear seemed fast in the middle of straight but loose in and coming out of corners and loose upon corner entry when braking.

overall, the 17' car (with medium plastics instead of the hard) and the 3 gear laydown has been amazing on clay and i am finally confident with the car and it's performance.
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Last edited by lyons238; 11-30-2016 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:18 AM   #4100
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The medium plastics are much better IMO
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:39 AM   #4101
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I've been wondering about the plastics myself. I hope that it runs well on packed and well looked after clay where there is a decent amount of traction.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:42 AM   #4102
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I've been wondering about the plastics myself. I hope that it runs well on packed and well looked after clay where there is a decent amount of traction.
I ran a few laps on this type of surface and experienced a push with the car. Unfortunately I broke the front bulkhead before I could really start tuning the car in after breaking in the diff and setting the slipper.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:45 AM   #4103
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yup unfortunately the new car comes with hard plastics which are good for carpet. but on carpet i actually run a combo of hard car plastics, graphite arms, and aluminum upgrades like hubs and roll center holders.

on clay i run all medium plastics and the car handles so much better and sticks to the track. you can actually watch the car flex over the small bumps in corners and stick to the track. with the hard plastics the car wants to kinda of skip over them - it's not the best handling for clay.

i would high recommend buying all the medium plastics for clay. i run all medium plastics except the front kickup on the bottom i run hard but up top i run medium. i find this to be the best compromise. medium works good too if you need the extra steering and flex - but i like the hard there and there only.
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:08 AM   #4104
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
yup unfortunately the new car comes with hard plastics which are good for carpet. but on carpet i actually run a combo of hard car plastics, graphite arms, and aluminum upgrades like hubs and roll center holders.

on clay i run all medium plastics and the car handles so much better and sticks to the track. you can actually watch the car flex over the small bumps in corners and stick to the track. with the hard plastics the car wants to kinda of skip over them - it's not the best handling for clay.

i would high recommend buying all the medium plastics for clay. i run all medium plastics except the front kickup on the bottom i run hard but up top i run medium. i find this to be the best compromise. medium works good too if you need the extra steering and flex - but i like the hard there and there only.
Do you run your rear shocks towards the front or rear?
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:23 AM   #4105
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Do you run your rear shocks towards the front or rear?
I run them forward for improved rotation and I like the way the car feels. I've managed to get good traction with this setup and the car turns on a dime and handles extremely agile, smooth and planted.

I am still making minor tweaks for a bit more forward bite but it's very close.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:36 AM   #4106
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
I run them forward for improved rotation and I like the way the car feels. I've managed to get good traction with this setup and the car turns on a dime and handles extremely agile, smooth and planted.

I am still making minor tweaks for a bit more forward bite but it's very close.
Would you mind posting your setup when u finalize it Stephen? Possiblly use the xray setup sheet too I would like to try ur setup.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:38 AM   #4107
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Would yiu mind posting your setuo when u finalize it Stephen? Possiblly use the xray setup sheet too would like ti try ur setup.
Yeah definitely I'll do it when I get some time at home this week.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:44 AM   #4108
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Yeah definitely I'll do it when I get some time at home this week.
Thanks man.
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:17 PM   #4109
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With out spending a bunch of time searching , how much is it to convert to all medium plastics? My car is pretty close using all the hard plastics. My track sounds a lot like yours, I would say medium traction. We use electrons and 3rd qualifier and mains we can go to slicks. But like you I just need to get a little more rear traction
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Old 12-01-2016, 06:17 AM   #4110
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
With out spending a bunch of time searching , how much is it to convert to all medium plastics? My car is pretty close using all the hard plastics. My track sounds a lot like yours, I would say medium traction. We use electrons and 3rd qualifier and mains we can go to slicks. But like you I just need to get a little more rear traction
it's like $100-$130 if you get them all I think I forget though

what i ended up doing is buying another 16' car (i sold my first one thinking the 17' model would be much different) and added the 3 gear because i already had avid machined 2x1.6/1.7 pistons and the exotek RF and RR suspension hangers so all I needed was the 3 gear. this method ended up costing me $75 but I got the 16' kit for $280 so overall it was much less expensive this way.
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