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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 11-22-2016, 10:39 AM   #4066
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What is the impact of the front buggy wing on jumping? Also, which front wings fit and parts needed to install? thx all
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Old 11-22-2016, 11:01 AM   #4067
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helped keep the nose down on bigger jumps for me....the Xray one is fine comes in a pack of 2 and never needed the 2nd one
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:22 PM   #4068
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Any mount needed? Do you mount behind the tower or in front of the tower? thx.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RockStar_199 View Post
helped keep the nose down on bigger jumps for me....the Xray one is fine comes in a pack of 2 and never needed the 2nd one
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:25 PM   #4069
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no just screws and it doesnt tear just make sure you line it up when using the body reamer. I just made a small hole then would turn the screw into the wing, for a tight fit, then into the shock tower
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:27 PM   #4070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
4-gear = more weight transfer front to rear
3-gear = less weight transfer, flatter car
agree... which is why I can't help thinking that MM3 means less rear grip... why you'd be able to lay down the power hard than MM4 is beyond me...
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:30 PM   #4071
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Am we the only ones who notice the buggy jumps a little nose high compared to others? It was way worse with the 4 gear. May not be a big deal on European ramp type jumps but bigger US style jumps it was a a little annoying.
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199 View Post
helped keep the nose down on bigger jumps for me....the Xray one is fine comes in a pack of 2 and never needed the 2nd one
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:11 PM   #4072
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
agree... which is why I can't help thinking that MM3 means less rear grip... why you'd be able to lay down the power hard than MM4 is beyond me...
The car won't naturally squat as much under power so you'll have less forward bite keeping everything else the same.
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:24 PM   #4073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
The car won't naturally squat as much under power so you'll have less forward bite keeping everything else the same.
not necessarily, the car wont dive as much under deceleration/braking either so you may have less initial turn in, but the car is definitely more stable on brakes, before it used to want to squirrel out.

overall the car is more stable and easier to drive, and i believe the forward bite can be made up for with weight/setup, while still keeping the other positives of a 3 gear.
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:42 PM   #4074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Am we the only ones who notice the buggy jumps a little nose high compared to others? It was way worse with the 4 gear. May not be a big deal on European ramp type jumps but bigger US style jumps it was a a little annoying.
i even had the brass toe block up front too
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Old 11-22-2016, 05:22 PM   #4075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
agree... which is why I can't help thinking that MM3 means less rear grip... why you'd be able to lay down the power hard than MM4 is beyond me...
Rotation of the motor towards the rear of the car.
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Old 11-23-2016, 11:24 PM   #4076
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Front wing made the buggy much easier to control in the air and get the nose down almost on par with other buggies...IMO

Quote:
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i even had the brass toe block up front too
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:35 AM   #4077
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Recently built up a '17 CE and have a few questions.

My local clay track has been having track prep issues. They usually blow off the track and water at the end of the night. But lately they seem to be getting lazy....the track starts off with med-high traction and then by the mains the track has a dusty layer and cars tend loose rear side bite. We are due for a track build, which means high grip clay. But...we have a 3 day race coming up next month and the track crew will get busy and not prep the track so it always develops a dust layer. (Same story for the past 5 years) I'm trying to set the car up for light dust layer clay. Would you advise Medium parts or perhaps go with a carbon chassis?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:12 AM   #4078
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
not necessarily, the car wont dive as much under deceleration/braking either so you may have less initial turn in, but the car is definitely more stable on brakes, before it used to want to squirrel out.

overall the car is more stable and easier to drive, and i believe the forward bite can be made up for with weight/setup, while still keeping the other positives of a 3 gear.
certainly agree with the first statement

For the second one, testing tomorrow at a local race
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:12 AM   #4079
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig View Post
Rotation of the motor towards the rear of the car.
yep... you're saying the same thing as me...
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Old 11-25-2016, 08:03 AM   #4080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Kindstrom View Post
Recently built up a '17 CE and have a few questions.

My local clay track has been having track prep issues. They usually blow off the track and water at the end of the night. But lately they seem to be getting lazy....the track starts off with med-high traction and then by the mains the track has a dusty layer and cars tend loose rear side bite. We are due for a track build, which means high grip clay. But...we have a 3 day race coming up next month and the track crew will get busy and not prep the track so it always develops a dust layer. (Same story for the past 5 years) I'm trying to set the car up for light dust layer clay. Would you advise Medium parts or perhaps go with a carbon chassis?

Thanks in advance!
I would use the carbon chassis with the brass holders! thats what i do
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