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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 10-27-2016, 11:59 AM   #3931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brit_racer View Post
Just ordered the 3 gear laydown parts for my DE XB2. Does anyone know what hardware/screws I need to order for the conversion? I saw this in the Wiki but this was CE to DE

'dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work
https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf
(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.'
where did you order the 3 gear parts?
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:05 PM   #3932
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i had them on back order at RC America.. they arrived at RCA on monday.. so.. they shipped them out monday.. i live in texas.. so.. fed ex is next day here.. they arrived on tuesday.
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:18 PM   #3933
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i had them on back order at RC America.. they arrived at RCA on monday.. so.. they shipped them out monday.. i live in texas.. so.. fed ex is next day here.. they arrived on tuesday.
oh so RCA has them in stock? what was the total cost?
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:33 PM   #3934
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im a team driver for RCA.. dont know the cost.. but im sure they are the same as the current parts.. you need the diff case.. the bigger gear, motor plate, and a motor support, thats the piece that bolts to the chassis under the motor.. as far as i know they should be in stock.. give them a call.. Bryan is really good with getting you parts out same day.. if you call early enough..

couple guys already testing it and saying they like it much better.. and noticed a big improvement on corner speed, and acceleration.. i didnt see any other big differences between the XB217, than the 16.. other than this 3 gear.. so.. update your 16.. and your good to go..
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:46 PM   #3935
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
im a team driver for RCA.. dont know the cost.. but im sure they are the same as the current parts.. you need the diff case.. the bigger gear, motor plate, and a motor support, thats the piece that bolts to the chassis under the motor.. as far as i know they should be in stock.. give them a call.. Bryan is really good with getting you parts out same day.. if you call early enough..

couple guys already testing it and saying they like it much better.. and noticed a big improvement on corner speed, and acceleration.. i didnt see any other big differences between the XB217, than the 16.. other than this 3 gear.. so.. update your 16.. and your good to go..

do you think the 3 gear increased corner speed and handling will be worth losing the forward bite? I run a 6.5t motor on med-high bite clay (electrons and primes depending) and sometimes it's hard to get the power to the ground even with the 4 gear laydown. I'm hesitate to make the switch before switching
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:52 PM   #3936
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that im not 100% on.. due to the fact we run stock here mostly.. the mod class is only there during big races.. so.. i cant really speak on that..
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:42 PM   #3937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
im a team driver for RCA.. dont know the cost.. but im sure they are the same as the current parts.. you need the diff case.. the bigger gear, motor plate, and a motor support, thats the piece that bolts to the chassis under the motor.. as far as i know they should be in stock.. give them a call.. Bryan is really good with getting you parts out same day.. if you call early enough..

couple guys already testing it and saying they like it much better.. and noticed a big improvement on corner speed, and acceleration.. i didnt see any other big differences between the XB217, than the 16.. other than this 3 gear.. so.. update your 16.. and your good to go..
The 3 gear is a vast improvement in cornering. You can power out of a corner earlier than before. The car acts like it wants to be driven even harder. Steering wasn't an issue before with my car and most guys with the XB2 at our track don't seem to say anything about needing more.
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Last edited by Pville Stig; 10-27-2016 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:49 PM   #3938
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
that im not 100% on.. due to the fact we run stock here mostly.. the mod class is only there during big races.. so.. i cant really speak on that..
i actually purchased a 16' car again new for 280 shipped on ebay, then just bought the 17 upgrades for $100 from Bryan at RCA (he's really cool)...so it works out better this way I have all the medium plastics (which I use on clay all besides 1-2 hard parts).

I'm just slightly scared I will lack forward bite with the 3 gear and end up back with the 4 gear, but who knows.
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:31 PM   #3939
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Good buy. That's the way to do it if those deals are regularly available
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i actually purchased a 16' car again new for 280 shipped on ebay, then just bought the 17 upgrades for $100 from Bryan at RCA (he's really cool)...so it works out better this way I have all the medium plastics (which I use on clay all besides 1-2 hard parts).

I'm just slightly scared I will lack forward bite with the 3 gear and end up back with the 4 gear, but who knows.
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:33 PM   #3940
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looks pretty damn awesome!!!
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:34 PM   #3941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i actually purchased a 16' car again new for 280 shipped on ebay, then just bought the 17 upgrades for $100 from Bryan at RCA (he's really cool)...so it works out better this way I have all the medium plastics (which I use on clay all besides 1-2 hard parts).

I'm just slightly scared I will lack forward bite with the 3 gear and end up back with the 4 gear, but who knows.
so how much was the 3 gear conversion ?
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:18 AM   #3942
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so how much was the 3 gear conversion ?
It's around $65-68 plus shipping. My order came out to $74 with shipping (Priority), so a good deal......can't wait to try it out!
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:41 AM   #3943
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Just an FYI,

The JConcepts S2 body is molded for the stand up 3 gear and lay down 4 gear transmission.

Just converted over to the laydown 3 gear on my 16 car and the S2 body looks like it would get a serious cut job to make it work.
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:37 AM   #3944
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so how much was the 3 gear conversion ?
I think it was $100 (with the side guards with the wire holder on the left side)

But yeah otherwise it's like $75
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:39 AM   #3945
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Good buy. That's the way to do it if those deals are regularly available
thanks buddy, once i learned the 17' came with just hard plastics i figured that would be the way to go considering i already have machined 1.6, 1.7 pistons from schelle, and i have the beefy exotek RR hanger...it made sense to do it this way and buy the 3 gear after, now i still have the 4 gear as a tuning option. I could even go as far as getting another shock tower and i already have 2 ball diffs, i could just swap the rear transmission assembly with the shock tower on it to save time...
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