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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 09-24-2016, 04:45 PM   #3736
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Whichever setup you use, get the brass hangers and the Xray carbon chassis. Xray version adds a lot of traction.

On another note - I bet here is a new gear diff for 2017. AmAin has the old on sale....


Quote:
Originally Posted by xray2050 View Post
Anyone have a really good dirt edition set up for medium to low grip dirt?
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:30 AM   #3737
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What mah battery are being used to make the 5, 7 and 10 minute race lengths? Let's say with a mild mod motor (7.5-10 range)
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:34 PM   #3738
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Hello everyone!

My friend has problems with the rear shock body, as you can see in the photos. This is a new car passed 2-3 practice days and one race (on astro only). Installed Schelle pistons (SCH1038). After a while, each five minutes of driving (with new oil in shock) oil is becoming black with shavings. He fills the new oil, drives again 5 minutes and checks - the oil also turns black with the shavings. Before that, he used the older versions of XB4 with black shock body (with the same pistons) and did not have problem with them.

He wrote a message to the XRay with a question about the shock body. They said that my friend uses not original pistons and they are can't help (but XRay drivers recommend to use these pistons - Xray XB4 thread).

And finally, a joke-answer from XRay about black shock body: «In black shocks he might not notice that the oil is not clear, but now in light colored shock bodies it is notable immediately» :-)

Does anyone have such problems with shock body?
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Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-img_20160919_132254.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-img_20160919_132504.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-img_20160919_132738.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-img_20160919_134222.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-086278aa52ee113df56b9934610c591abcfe002b67e505e89f5d21aba3839e27.jpg  

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Old 09-25-2016, 04:42 PM   #3739
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Did the new pistons come on a parts tree? If so they might have needed some fine sanding where they joined the tree.
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:29 PM   #3740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laverychev_Max View Post
Hello everyone!

My friend has problems with the rear shock body, as you can see in the photos. This is a new car passed 2-3 practice days and one race (on astro only). Installed Schelle pistons (SCH1038). After a while, each five minutes of driving (with new oil in shock) oil is becoming black with shavings. He fills the new oil, drives again 5 minutes and checks - the oil also turns black with the shavings. Before that, he used the older versions of XB4 with black shock body (with the same pistons) and did not have problem with them.

He wrote a message to the XRay with a question about the shock body. They said that my friend uses not original pistons and they are can't help (but XRay drivers recommend to use these pistons - Xray XB4 thread).

And finally, a joke-answer from XRay about black shock body: «In black shocks he might not notice that the oil is not clear, but now in light colored shock bodies it is notable immediately» :-)

Does anyone have such problems with shock body?
It may be the lighting, but it looks like the coating is coming off the inside of the shock body.
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Old 09-25-2016, 08:48 PM   #3741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laverychev_Max View Post
Hello everyone!

My friend has problems with the rear shock body, as you can see in the photos. This is a new car passed 2-3 practice days and one race (on astro only). Installed Schelle pistons (SCH1038). After a while, each five minutes of driving (with new oil in shock) oil is becoming black with shavings. He fills the new oil, drives again 5 minutes and checks - the oil also turns black with the shavings. Before that, he used the older versions of XB4 with black shock body (with the same pistons) and did not have problem with them.

He wrote a message to the XRay with a question about the shock body. They said that my friend uses not original pistons and they are can't help (but XRay drivers recommend to use these pistons - Xray XB4 thread).

And finally, a joke-answer from XRay about black shock body: «In black shocks he might not notice that the oil is not clear, but now in light colored shock bodies it is notable immediately» :-)

Does anyone have such problems with shock body?

The darkened fluid is purely cosmetic, I would not worry about it.

But to be fair you did install Machined pistons that are slightly larger.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:14 AM   #3742
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Also check to make sure shock shafts are not bent.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:22 AM   #3743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laverychev_Max View Post
Hello everyone!

My friend has problems with the rear shock body, as you can see in the photos. This is a new car passed 2-3 practice days and one race (on astro only). Installed Schelle pistons (SCH1038). After a while, each five minutes of driving (with new oil in shock) oil is becoming black with shavings. He fills the new oil, drives again 5 minutes and checks - the oil also turns black with the shavings. Before that, he used the older versions of XB4 with black shock body (with the same pistons) and did not have problem with them.

He wrote a message to the XRay with a question about the shock body. They said that my friend uses not original pistons and they are can't help (but XRay drivers recommend to use these pistons - Xray XB4 thread).

And finally, a joke-answer from XRay about black shock body: «In black shocks he might not notice that the oil is not clear, but now in light colored shock bodies it is notable immediately» :-)

Does anyone have such problems with shock body?
Never seen this before on any Xray shocks, but as some have noted it looks almost like the coating inside is coming off.

I can see this being a possible outcome of running "oversized" machined pistons. Unlike machined pistons which are usually very square with sharp edges the stock pistons are slightly rounded. Hypothetically the machined pistons could damage the inner coating in case of a crash where force is applied to the shock shaft sideways pressing the piston against the inner sidewall of the shock. The combination of very small tolerances, sharp edges of the piston, slightly worn shock guides and excessive force sideways could possibly cause this.

You say you are running the Schelle pistons which I have no personal experience with so I can't comment on the design or outer diameter of them specifically though.

But as mentioned I've never seen this happen to any Xray shocks we have built or used over the years but then again we only run the stock Xray pistons drilled to various hole configurations.

I don't know......maybe buy new rear shock bodies and run the stock pistons to see ?

Kit comes with blanks that you can drill to any configuration you want (like we do).

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Old 09-26-2016, 04:43 AM   #3744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laverychev_Max View Post
Hello everyone!

My friend has problems with the rear shock body, as you can see in the photos. This is a new car passed 2-3 practice days and one race (on astro only). Installed Schelle pistons (SCH1038). After a while, each five minutes of driving (with new oil in shock) oil is becoming black with shavings. He fills the new oil, drives again 5 minutes and checks - the oil also turns black with the shavings. Before that, he used the older versions of XB4 with black shock body (with the same pistons) and did not have problem with them.

He wrote a message to the XRay with a question about the shock body. They said that my friend uses not original pistons and they are can't help (but XRay drivers recommend to use these pistons - Xray XB4 thread).

And finally, a joke-answer from XRay about black shock body: «In black shocks he might not notice that the oil is not clear, but now in light colored shock bodies it is notable immediately» :-)

Does anyone have such problems with shock body?
I have same problem xb2 and xb4 running with stock piston i know xray shocks is sucks not like losi, kyosho shocks. I only race in one day then my oil shocks was very dark.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:55 AM   #3745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
I have same problem xb2 and xb4 running with stock piston i know xray shocks is sucks not like losi, kyosho shocks. I only race in one day then my oil shocks was very dark.
Dirty shock oil is down to improper seal at the bottom of the shocks.

It can be anything from not letting the orings swell (cover them in grease prior to assembly), forcing the shock shaft through the orings when building (always loosen the lower shock nut to relieve pressure on orings, coat threads on shock shaft with oil and screw the shock shaft instead of pushing through the orings) and damaging the orings to having old/worn out orings or shock guides to a bent shock shaft.

If built correctly they don't leak, suck in excessive air or get the oil prematurely dirty

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Old 09-26-2016, 08:08 PM   #3746
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Anyone using the exotek chassis for low grip or is it for high traction only
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:30 PM   #3747
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Flex - Least to most: exotek carbon < aluminum < X-ray carbon
X-ray carbon best for low grip. Exotek hard as a rock
Quote:
Originally Posted by billsharp34 View Post
Anyone using the exotek chassis for low grip or is it for high traction only

Last edited by JAE; 09-26-2016 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:48 PM   #3748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Flex highest to lowest: exotek carbon > aluminum > X-ray carbon
So if I'm reading that right your saying the exotek chassis will flex the most am I right
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:57 PM   #3749
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Just corrected it. Exotek is the stiffest. The X-ray carbon added a lot of traction for my laydown in medium bite clay

Quote:
Originally Posted by billsharp34 View Post
So if I'm reading that right your saying the exotek chassis will flex the most am I right
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:59 AM   #3750
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One of my rear xray wheel cracked.Thought these we're better than the cheap associated wheels. The tires mounted on it we're just 3 practice days old..... Wow.
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