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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 09-09-2016, 06:25 AM   #3676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
With the 2017 updates, will there be a 3 gear laydown as well? That's what I'd like to try on this car.
Go back a few pages and look for the post from Bent......
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:56 PM   #3677
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You guys know where I can find ceramic bearings for the XB2 CE and DE?
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Old 09-13-2016, 05:54 AM   #3678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
You guys know where I can find ceramic bearings for the XB2 CE and DE?
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=1...Carpet+Edition

http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=1...2+Dirt+Edition
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:32 AM   #3679
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Quote:
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You guys know where I can find ceramic bearings for the XB2 CE and DE?
The big question is why? Xray bearings are amazing, they spin forever, and last for a good amount of time.
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:09 PM   #3680
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Doesnt say ceramic. Are they?
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:58 PM   #3681
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Doesnt say ceramic. Are they?
you have the option to choose which bearing type you want throughout the kit. The "Ceramic Metal" are metal shielded on both sides, and the "Ceramic Revolution" are metal shielded on 1 side:

Quote:
Originally Posted by AVID
The Revolution Series bearings are a low friction bearing with several options to help satisfy anyone's desire. What makes this bearing unique is that it has a rubber seal on one side while having a metal shield on the other. Rubber seals are great protectors against dirt but the price is that they offer a little more friction due to the tighter seal. Now the performance of a metal shield is excellent but allows dirt to get in easily. So with the Revolution series, you run the rubber side towards the outside and the metal towards the inside. You get the protection of the rubber but the added performance by having one less rubber seal. But you don't have to stop there, if you are truly performance oriented and want the least amount of friction then you are in luck. You can quickly pop off the rubber seal with an exacto and place the metal shield facing outward in your hubs. This is the best performance you could attain while maintaining some protection from dirt.
I like to run the Revolution series with rubber side removed in my cars and flush the stock grease and use teflon bike chain lube... usually lasts 2-3 race days before I like to re-clean and lube my bearings again.

Of course I only do this in the stock cars that I race... for mod I just run regular steel + rubber shielded bearings
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:22 PM   #3682
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Axle Height: long bushing on top or bottom of front axles for more aggressive steering? For me, my car became much more aggressive with the longer bushing on top. Is this a tuning option that would be universal for all buggies? In the b6 thread along with others I've spoken to, they had the opposite. Longer bushing on bottom gave more aggressive steering. Anyone explain this and is it car geometry dependent? Thx

Last edited by JAE; 09-13-2016 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:12 PM   #3683
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the term 'axle height' is a bit misleading imo, the axle height will always stay the same (ie; half of the tires overall diameter) but you are actually changing arm/camber link geometry in relation to the axle.
i run the b6 and xb2 on carpet and both have more initial steering with the long bushing down, long down will give a higher roll center, naturally stiffer front end, less roll, less droop, less rear weigh transfer and faster side to side weight transfer up front.
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:29 AM   #3684
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Need a good setup for the Xray XB Dirt Edition for clay (med/high traction) track.
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:30 AM   #3685
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http://site.petitrc.com/setup/xray/S...tsXrayXB2.html
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:37 AM   #3686
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where do you mount a fan in your Dirt Edition. ... pics?
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:37 AM   #3687
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thanks.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:10 AM   #3688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Need a good setup for the Xray XB Dirt Edition for clay (med/high traction) track.
this is my setup from my DE converted car..

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:08 PM   #3689
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This setup has a ton of rear grip. I tried it. I'm wondering though, why my xray had much better steering when i moved the axle bushing to the top position?
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:46 PM   #3690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
this is my setup from my DE converted car..

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
Thanks.
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