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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 07-25-2016, 02:15 PM   #3436
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Thanks for the reply but what does the height have to do with the camber and toe settings? Do I really need to worry about that? Why does the height matter if you could explain more
Camber changes as ride height changes.
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:43 PM   #3437
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Got a CE on the way, going to build it up for my local turf track. Brand new turf and its grippy, my DE with battery all the way back was pulling wheelies with a ball diff. Anybody have a set up they strongly recommend? Or just start with the box and report back with my feedback to have you gurus guide me in on the setup of my dreams?
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:29 PM   #3438
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I just finished converting my CE to Dirt spec and I notice that I have my rear turnbuckles hitting my springs. My links are in stock position in both rear hubs and rear camber mounts. Did anyone else have this problem? Any input would help. Thank you in advance.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:32 PM   #3439
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I just finished converting my CE to Dirt spec and I notice that I have my rear turnbuckles hitting my springs. My links are in stock position in both rear hubs and rear camber mounts. Did anyone else have this problem? Any input would help. Thank you in advance.
Can you move the camber links to the other side of the shock tower or the hub? Or the shocks?
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:42 PM   #3440
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Can you move the camber links to the other side of the shock tower or the hub? Or the shocks?
My rear camber links don't connect at the shock tower but on mounts located behind the rear shock towers. I followed my build via the manual but i still get my turnbuckles hitting the spring on compression. Th only way I can get a few mm is by shortening my wheelbase which I'd rather not do.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:47 PM   #3441
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I noticed after a few weeks of driving this was the case with my DE. Added a couple MM shims on the tower. Didn't impact either way. Probably stating the obvious but thought I would mention in case you didn't consider that yet...


QUOTE=Poppin Fresh;14613732]My rear camber links don't connect at the shock tower but on mounts located behind the rear shock towers. I followed my build via the manual but i still get my turnbuckles hitting the spring on compression. Th only way I can get a few mm is by shortening my wheelbase which I'd rather not do.[/QUOTE]
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:59 PM   #3442
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Default Aluminum shock collar nut

Referring to the collar/nut used to screw down the springs to adjust ride height. Anyone notice when at the same height as the screws on the front shock tower they rub the screw? The black anodization is rubbing off. Also worried that the spring may be slightly binding
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:12 PM   #3443
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Originally Posted by Poppin Fresh View Post
I just finished converting my CE to Dirt spec and I notice that I have my rear turnbuckles hitting my springs. My links are in stock position in both rear hubs and rear camber mounts. Did anyone else have this problem? Any input would help. Thank you in advance.
Can you share the parts needed to convert.
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:12 PM   #3444
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II ran my CE last week for the first time. It was my first time with a 2wd on carpet. I only drove a 2wd one other time on clay and didn't really like it. But idk if its cause I am now on carpet or if it's the buggy but I love it. Anyways the car had all the medium plastics on it. I am running on green carpet. Would I benefit from switching to the hard parts? I was going to do it a little at a time. I just added the hard pieces up front (deck piece that the towers bolt to and the piece that bolts to the chasis). Should I just run with that and see how it is or should I put the rest of the hard parts on (arms, c-hubs, knuckles)?
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:23 PM   #3445
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Referring to the collar/nut used to screw down the springs to adjust ride height. Anyone notice when at the same height as the screws on the front shock tower they rub the screw? The black anodization is rubbing off. Also worried that the spring may be slightly binding
Take a dremel sanding drum and sand the screws flat on the tower. Take just enough off where you can still fit a driver to remove. Then run a 1mm spacer between shock and standoff. Haven't had a problem since. You can use a black marks a-lot to color the collars.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:37 PM   #3446
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Thx - did you notice any change in handling?imagine everyone does not know they have the same issue and I wouldn't know the difference.
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Take a dremel sanding drum and sand the screws flat on the tower. Take just enough off where you can still fit a driver to remove. Then run a 1mm spacer between shock and standoff. Haven't had a problem since. You can use a black marks a-lot to color the collars.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:24 AM   #3447
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Can you share the parts needed to convert.
its in the wiki up top..
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Old 07-26-2016, 10:52 AM   #3448
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its in the wiki up top..
Thanks but can I still use the CF shock tower or do I have to switch to plastic one ?
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:38 PM   #3449
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on the rear.. you need the plastic one.. the front.. you can keep the carbon one on there..
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:51 PM   #3450
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Thanks but can I still use the CF shock tower or do I have to switch to plastic one ?
Be on the lookout for McKune to make a rear carbon shock tower in a few weeks.
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