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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 07-20-2016, 09:42 PM   #3406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
are there Xray shock rebuild kits out there? figured with them having the XB4 and TC cars out for years now i would find something.

i specificly need the 4 pcs in the middle of https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-de...368030/p247426. i can't see paying $22.50 to get enough for 4 shocks

i found this for their 1/8 scale https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-co...358019/p227262

anyone use any other manufacturers parts that work?
These fit perfect.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222188036259
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:00 AM   #3407
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How are you guys setting and measuring droop? Like how do you decide how much to limit the up travel?

Currently my front shocks allow my springs to flop around when fully extended.

Also, is it worth even getting a droop gauge or measuring droop since we don't have droop screws? We can only put in internal shock limiters, correct?
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:59 AM   #3408
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You don't need any droop gauges or anything like a touring car. The best way to ensure it's equal is to measure how much of the shock shaft is visible between the shock body and top of the shock end.

For me, droop changes how much weight is transferred back and forth, on and off power. Also how much the car will lean left to right in the corners. I find less droop makes the car more stable, more droop make it's more lively/aggressive and sometimes more traction.

Droop also affects bump handling and landing. If the track is blown out and bumpy or has huge jumps then you will want more droop.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:19 PM   #3409
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Speaking of droop is anyone using the new longer shock ends?
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:34 PM   #3410
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
You don't need any droop gauges or anything like a touring car. The best way to ensure it's equal is to measure how much of the shock shaft is visible between the shock body and top of the shock end.

For me, droop changes how much weight is transferred back and forth, on and off power. Also how much the car will lean left to right in the corners. I find less droop makes the car more stable, more droop make it's more lively/aggressive and sometimes more traction.

Droop also affects bump handling and landing. If the track is blown out and bumpy or has huge jumps then you will want more droop.
so the hudy setup station is a waste most likely?

i bet the DE setup wheels might be of benefit for off road though and maybe a tire balancer?

what about the spring being loose in the shock from too much droop? that seems like it should be avoided huh? i built the shocks with the manual recommended limiters...
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:17 AM   #3411
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The Hudy setup station will let you set camber and toe with a lot of precision. Maybe not needed for club racing, but it's still really nice if you want to spend the money.

I've started balancing my tires and can notice a pretty good difference on high speed sections, the car is much smoother. I'm not sure why more people don't do this as it's cheap once you have a balancer and pretty easy to do.

I don't have a good solution for the spring being loose when running lots of droop. I tend to not run a lot of droop so I don't have the issue, but have seen it on lots of cars, not just the Xray. Maybe someone else has better info.
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:50 AM   #3412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
The Hudy setup station will let you set camber and toe with a lot of precision. Maybe not needed for club racing, but it's still really nice if you want to spend the money.

I've started balancing my tires and can notice a pretty good difference on high speed sections, the car is much smoother. I'm not sure why more people don't do this as it's cheap once you have a balancer and pretty easy to do.

I don't have a good solution for the spring being loose when running lots of droop. I tend to not run a lot of droop so I don't have the issue, but have seen it on lots of cars, not just the Xray. Maybe someone else has better info.
yeah, im just surprised the manual setup calls for that much droop...

but im going to rebuild my shocks with less droop.

i dont really want to spend close to $400 on the hudy setup station and all the little tid bits you need to even use it. it would be nice but...

do you think those DE setup wheels would be a good compromise? i feel like they would allow for more accurate and consistent settings because you negate the inconsistency of the foams/tires and they give you a flatter more consistent edge to measure on. i do have a ride height gauge, rpm toe gauge, and a camber gauge so the DE wheels would be quick and cheap.

also i found it weird that the hudy setup guide tells you to measure toe and camber on the 20mm blocks. why would you measure toe and camber on the 20mm blocks if your ride height is at 17mm for instance? that seems counter intuitive to me.

thanks for the help bro!
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:02 AM   #3413
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Here's the setup station you want for a 2wd buggy. https://www.amainhobbies.com/hudy-un...108905/p150180

I believe the droop blocks are only for 1/8 which has droop screws like on-road. I've never setup an 1/8, but for 1/10 buggy and TC I always set the ride height first using the tires that you'll be running, then put it on the setup station and set ride height, no blocks or anything.

I think they run tons of front droop on carpet and astro, I'm not sure what the theory is but everyone seems to do it.
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:38 AM   #3414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Here's the setup station you want for a 2wd buggy. https://www.amainhobbies.com/hudy-un...108905/p150180

I believe the droop blocks are only for 1/8 which has droop screws like on-road. I've never setup an 1/8, but for 1/10 buggy and TC I always set the ride height first using the tires that you'll be running, then put it on the setup station and set ride height, no blocks or anything.

I think they run tons of front droop on carpet and astro, I'm not sure what the theory is but everyone seems to do it.
the droop blocks are for 1/10 off road too. theyre so that you can have a consistent height to measure camber and toe. the idea is 20mm is around where your ride height will be and since your ride height is changing all the time you take repeatable measurements of 20mm even if your ride height is 17mm or 22mm...

do you know which setup board and which decal i would get if i were to get the hudy? im considering getting it.

that or i might get the DE wheels and the 20mm support blocks and just use those to rest my chassis on and take measurements with the DE wheels. i feel that would give pretty accurate and consistent results...
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:17 AM   #3415
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1/10 setup stations are nice but not necessary as a starting point. I pit next to lots of fast guys at a very competitive track and few use them for 2wd buggy.

They are nice, but before you invest in one routinely (every day you race/practice), check the following:

Camber settings
Ride height
shock lengths (use a caliper to check right v. left) - ok, probably don't need to do this every day
toe out - generally you have to eye this, but just make sure it's very close

Get in the habit of doing that, periodically rebuilding your shocks, keeping your car clean so the suspension won't bind in even the slightest.

Develop those habits first and then see if you need a setup station.
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:27 AM   #3416
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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
1/10 setup stations are nice but not necessary as a starting point. I pit next to lots of fast guys at a very competitive track and few use them for 2wd buggy.

They are nice, but before you invest in one routinely (every day you race/practice), check the following:

Camber settings
Ride height
shock lengths (use a caliper to check right v. left) - ok, probably don't need to do this every day
toe out - generally you have to eye this, but just make sure it's very close

Get in the habit of doing that, periodically rebuilding your shocks, keeping your car clean so the suspension won't bind in even the slightest.

Develop those habits first and then see if you need a setup station.
yeah but the point is you can't setup consistently unless your ride height remains static with every measurement. so at the very least im thinking it might be useful to get blocks. rest the chassis on blocks with DE setup wheels and measure camber and toe that way. does anyone think this will work well?
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:31 AM   #3417
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
yeah but the point is you can't setup consistently unless your ride height remains static with every measurement. so at the very least im thinking it might be useful to get blocks. rest the chassis on blocks with DE setup wheels and measure camber and toe that way. does anyone think this will work well?
No. Because it all changes based on what ride height you're at. Change ride height? Get out the setup board and reset everything...
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:36 AM   #3418
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
No. Because it all changes based on what ride height you're at. Change ride height? Get out the setup board and reset everything...
yes i get that, but the thing is, is it's more important to have a consistent repeatable measurement process. if you pick up and drop your car then measure camber/toe/ whatever, then pick it up and drop it again, it's going to be a different height so it's hard to have a consistent repeatable process.

however, if you use support blocks (like the hudy system recommends) then you set everything for 20mm for 1/10 off road. this way every single time you measure its consistent and repeatable. the numbers actually mean something. now sure i might run 18-22mm ride height. but that 2mm change isn't going to matter much because ride height is constantly changing during actual driving anyway. but at least the setup is close and its repeatable, consistent, and accurate...get it?

thats what the entire hudy system is based off of...

all im talking about is using support blocks with the DE wheels for measurement instead of using support blocks with the setup system like hudy...

any other thoughts?
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Old 07-22-2016, 09:02 AM   #3419
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the way i do it.. and i HAVE the setup station.. first time i used it to set toe.. that was it.. then my routine at the track is set my ride height with the tires i will be running.. do some measurements dropping the car.. and also pushing the car down to the board.. and seeing where it comes back up to.. making sure its correct.. front and rear.. once i done that.. then i take the wheels off put on the setup wheels.. i use hudy TC wheels.. set the car so its static ride height.. and then do the camber.. with the radio and car on.. to ensure that the front wheels are straight..

so.. yes.. i think your right in your thinking.. but.. i dont think the 20mm blocks will benefit you.. because setting -2* camber with a 20mm right height. is different than if your ride height is actually 17mm. your camber will be bigger than -2*

unless you can figure out a measurement.. that.. at ride height camber is -2*.. and at 20mm its at -1* so.. with the blocks.. you set it at -1* with the understanding at ride height it will be correct. maybe there is a formula.. but.. and this is a big but.. depending on your camber rod length.. it will change the amount of camber gain your getting. if you run a short lenth.. you get a bigger camber change as the suspension compresses.. vs.. a longer link. so.. you would need to redo your math.. if you change camber rod length.

but yes.. setup wheels are nice.. because foams, wheels and tires are not exactly straight. your thinking on the blocks.. is a good idea.. but.. you need to know what your camber gain, or change is.. as the car goes to ride height.
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Old 07-22-2016, 09:49 AM   #3420
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
the way i do it.. and i HAVE the setup station.. first time i used it to set toe.. that was it.. then my routine at the track is set my ride height with the tires i will be running.. do some measurements dropping the car.. and also pushing the car down to the board.. and seeing where it comes back up to.. making sure its correct.. front and rear.. once i done that.. then i take the wheels off put on the setup wheels.. i use hudy TC wheels.. set the car so its static ride height.. and then do the camber.. with the radio and car on.. to ensure that the front wheels are straight..

so.. yes.. i think your right in your thinking.. but.. i dont think the 20mm blocks will benefit you.. because setting -2* camber with a 20mm right height. is different than if your ride height is actually 17mm. your camber will be bigger than -2*

unless you can figure out a measurement.. that.. at ride height camber is -2*.. and at 20mm its at -1* so.. with the blocks.. you set it at -1* with the understanding at ride height it will be correct. maybe there is a formula.. but.. and this is a big but.. depending on your camber rod length.. it will change the amount of camber gain your getting. if you run a short lenth.. you get a bigger camber change as the suspension compresses.. vs.. a longer link. so.. you would need to redo your math.. if you change camber rod length.

but yes.. setup wheels are nice.. because foams, wheels and tires are not exactly straight. your thinking on the blocks.. is a good idea.. but.. you need to know what your camber gain, or change is.. as the car goes to ride height.

are the hudy tc wheels the same size as buggy wheels?

also, what if i got the GHEA ride height gauges and i could set those at my desired ride height and then measure camber, toe, etc with the setup wheels?

i have the RPM toe gauge and i could do it manually as well.

is the hudy setup system worth it at that point?

also, what about droop? are you measuring droop manually or are you just using the limiters within the shock as the unit of measurement?
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