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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-23-2016, 10:15 PM   #3271
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Correct. I hear the track it getting redone now for regionals. I copied your rear block set up. I have associated yellow front gray rear. All hard plastics.All else basically stock. CE edition. Any suggestions? As I need the steering everywhere else, it was just that one turn that I kept traction rolling.
You might consider changing your roll center. Raising it should help. I had a B5m with the reds laydown that i could make traction roll at will on a high bite clay track that i cannot make it do that with the xb2.
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:03 AM   #3272
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18-19mm ride height as well? The car has a ton of droop in the front with the stock setup, reducing that will make the car less aggressive and lean less.

For the new layout you'll probably want to go one softer on springs. Then give the car some more rear toe. I don't think I'll have to change much else on my car for regionals, assuming traction is significantly less.
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:17 AM   #3273
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Wouldn't you want the mass to be the same? The XB2 needs the weight on the front for turn-in traction, correct?
Mass has a different percentage of impact based on its position to the front and rear sxle. A bulkhead will be more drastic than say the change in servo weight.

The lp servos sure do give more space!
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:23 AM   #3274
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Opinion: regarding the DE, in comparison with my previous B5m, my experience so far has been the car drives in between a laydown and traditional mid motor. Doesn't get quite the same traction and can't push it as hard but I'm cornering way faster and have much faster laps. I also have a CE, where my fast lap times are the fastest, but am less consistent in med/med-high grip (not the best driver, yet). Would this be an accurate consensus here or am I "doing it wrong"? All in all its the best buggy I've driven.
The DE I don't think makes the mechanical grip the b5m does out of the box, however there are tricks to make it so.

I'll tell you right now, the laydown cars fly at ocrc, but you need to do little thing to get them more rear bite.

Medium plastics, exotek c mount, a little more rear toe, or tape the battery in. The avid slipper will help as well.
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Old 06-24-2016, 12:34 PM   #3275
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
18-19mm ride height as well? The car has a ton of droop in the front with the stock setup, reducing that will make the car less aggressive and lean less.

For the new layout you'll probably want to go one softer on springs. Then give the car some more rear toe. I don't think I'll have to change much else on my car for regionals, assuming traction is significantly less.
Yep 18mm front and rear. I'm used to a set screw in the a arms for droop coming from on road. So adjusting droop on the buggy is new to me. Thanks for your help!
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Old 06-24-2016, 12:38 PM   #3276
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Tape the battery in, so as to remove battery brace and increase flex I assume? Would you put in the medium plastics on the arms, or the medium side rails 1st? thx.
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
The DE I don't think makes the mechanical grip the b5m does out of the box, however there are tricks to make it so.

I'll tell you right now, the laydown cars fly at ocrc, but you need to do little thing to get them more rear bite.

Medium plastics, exotek c mount, a little more rear toe, or tape the battery in. The avid slipper will help as well.
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Old 06-24-2016, 12:46 PM   #3277
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Tape the battery in, so as to remove battery brace and increase flex I assume? Would you put in the medium plastics on the arms, or the medium side rails 1st? thx.
It's hard to say, because when you add flex, you're also scrubbing speed. This is more of a feel question, which can only be answered by you. Some like a car that is ultra stiff and doesn't scrub any speed. I like a car that will give up some speed for rear bite personally. I would tell you to take a day or two of pure testing and try the different combos and see what you like best.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:21 PM   #3278
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Thx - I'm just looking for optimum traction. Wheels pin is costing me much more lap time. My rear end is stock. I was thinking to remove the rear internal liniters. I already have 4 degrees toe. However anti-squat is at -2. Without getting into a lengthy debate about anti-squat, how much or lack thereof should I have to prevent wheel spin mid corner to on power exit? Thanks man
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
It's hard to say, because when you add flex, you're also scrubbing speed. This is more of a feel question, which can only be answered by you. Some like a car that is ultra stiff and doesn't scrub any speed. I like a car that will give up some speed for rear bite personally. I would tell you to take a day or two of pure testing and try the different combos and see what you like best.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:10 PM   #3279
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Thx - I'm just looking for optimum traction. Wheels pin is costing me much more lap time. My rear end is stock. I was thinking to remove the rear internal liniters. I already have 4 degrees toe. However anti-squat is at -2. Without getting into a lengthy debate about anti-squat, how much or lack thereof should I have to prevent wheel spin mid corner to on power exit? Thanks man
This is on the CE, correct?

I'd start by setting my slipper perfectly, run a ball diff, and then work from there. Limiters can have an impact on mid corner, however, I wouldn't go there yet. Do you have a setup sheet of where you're at right now?
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:31 PM   #3280
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CE. Bought cheap as a parts car and just grew to love it. Kit setup, with the exception the rear links are on the outer ballstud mount. Orig owner stripped the inner one. Only changes I've made are moving the shocks to the rear. Moved shock to inner hole on rear tower. 2mm shims on hub. 2mm shims on ballstud mount and 2mm shims on hubs. 3dot 2dot 30/27.5 f/r. 4 degrees toe -2 degrees anti squat (middle f/r)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
This is on the CE, correct?

I'd start by setting my slipper perfectly, run a ball diff, and then work from there. Limiters can have an impact on mid corner, however, I wouldn't go there yet. Do you have a setup sheet of where you're at right now?

Last edited by JAE; 06-24-2016 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:01 AM   #3281
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Taped in the battery. Buggy is now Strapped. Didn't realize I could get so much more traction with this. wish the driver was as good as the buggy
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:04 AM   #3282
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why are people running yz2 diffs and drive shafts over the XRAY ones. I have the CE and in attempt to optimize my setup for med-high bite clay (i run on both carpet and clay) i purchased the XRAY ball diff. It looks to be of great quality so im just wondering why people are using the yz2 diff. i did a quick search and found people saying how to use the yz2 diff, but not why.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:06 AM   #3283
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why are people running yz2 diffs and drive shafts over the XRAY ones. I have the CE and in attempt to optimize my setup for med-high bite clay (i run on both carpet and clay) i purchased the XRAY ball diff. It looks to be of great quality so im just wondering why people are using the yz2 diff. i did a quick search and found people saying how to use the yz2 diff, but not why.
The cost for the yokomo is half as much.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:17 AM   #3284
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why are people running yz2 diffs and drive shafts over the XRAY ones. I have the CE and in attempt to optimize my setup for med-high bite clay (i run on both carpet and clay) i purchased the XRAY ball diff. It looks to be of great quality so im just wondering why people are using the yz2 diff. i did a quick search and found people saying how to use the yz2 diff, but not why.
The outdrives wear VERY quickly. I was changing drive pins after every DAY of racing, they wore out in a month of usage. This is in 17.5 as well, with a well set slipper. On high bite with direct drive I could not need them lasting long at all.

The yokomo diff is just as good, however the outdrives hold up much longer, and they're literally 1/8th the cost to replace. They're also a more "standard" size; the Losi outdrives are the same dimensions, allowing you to use other lower cost product.

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:23 AM   #3285
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig View Post
The cost for the yokomo is half as much.
oh i see. i wasnt concerned with the cost to be honest, i like XRAY stuff so i just bite the bullet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
The outdrives wear VERY quickly. I was changing drive pins after every DAY of racing, they wore out in a month of usage. This is in 17.5 as well, with a well set slipper. On high bite with direct drive I could not need them lasting long at all.

The yokomo diff is just as good, however the outdrives hold up much longer, and they're literally 1/8th the cost to replace. They're also a more "standard" size; the Losi outdrives are the same dimensions, allowing you to use other lower cost product.

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.
can you provide a link to the actual AE spring, hasn't it been updated recently? also for the shims, what size 1mm shim?

can anyone else comment on this about the XRAY ball diffs?

thank you for the information i really appreciate it. though the outdrive/pin thing seems weird, i dont have any issues with any of my XRAY outdrives/pins. in fact, i actually think they last a long time. also i have the hudy tool and a ton of spares, so thats a non issue for me.
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