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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-21-2016, 02:15 PM   #3256
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Protek 160t is a good compromise. Low profile high torque shorty that weighs 55 grams. Leaves you more space for electronics, had good torque and is fast. Weighs a little more than an avg shorty too. To me, checks all boxes and AmAin stands behind it if you have any issues. Replacement gears are easily purxhased. Mine works great and is very fast.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
So to conclude are we all at a consensus that running a beefy standard servo such as the Hitec 9360, weighing in at around 65g as apposed to a low pro at about 40g would be the best all around option for a CE on both carpet and med-high bite clay? The reason I like this Hitec servo is because it has a unique gear material arrangement with titanium as well and its brushless, has excellent speed, and plenty of torque for anything 1/10 scale +. It's a servo you don't have to worry about hitting a few pipes or cartwheeling, which we all know happens when your racing mostly due to other people and trying to avoid them etc.

On carpet I would run now under battery weight and on clay I have the option to run the battery weight?

This seems like it would give me the best of both worlds...also on clay I don't mind having a slightly heavier car it just seems to track better and smoother. Where on carpet I could run either a heavy or a light car as long as the grip is there.
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:40 AM   #3257
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I'm currently running the MKS Low Profile Servo. I also have this in my RB6 and I love it for it's speed, torque and size. .07 / 233.3 oz-in @ 7.4V! More than enough for the small 2WD tires IMHO. I have run a full size servo in my RB6 but not yet in my Xb2, although I have one. I like the idea of a low pro servo in the 2WD cars because then I can push the remaining electronics forward. Typically I mount my ESC right behind the servo, which is how I've setup my Xb2 CE for now. I am also using a GForce Capacitor, which is a bit heavy, under my receiver, next to my ESC. So my electronics package is as far forward as possible. I did this as I had intended to run this car on carpet first, then later on clay. I haven't run it on carpet and have instead been running it on clay. It's pretty fast, and with minimal work I can usually get on pace, near best of track lap times.

For clarity in comparing servo size. Low Profile vs Full Size. If you have the option to buy either, I'd go for the low pro. More options in terms of weight placement and you can get very close in performance with a quality low pro. You probably don't need more than 200oz-in of torque! haha
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:48 AM   #3258
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Hope these help
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Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-img_0819.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-img_0820.jpg  
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Old 06-22-2016, 06:34 AM   #3259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Protek 160t is a good compromise. Low profile high torque shorty that weighs 55 grams. Leaves you more space for electronics, had good torque and is fast. Weighs a little more than an avg shorty too. To me, checks all boxes and AmAin stands behind it if you have any issues. Replacement gears are easily purxhased. Mine works great and is very fast.
I was looking into that servo but the reason im looking into getting another Hitec 9630 is because its so damn beefy and durable it puts up with any punishment I give it. I'm very sick of burning out servos, maybe I've just had bad luck, I'm not sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I'm currently running the MKS Low Profile Servo. I also have this in my RB6 and I love it for it's speed, torque and size. .07 / 233.3 oz-in @ 7.4V! More than enough for the small 2WD tires IMHO. I have run a full size servo in my RB6 but not yet in my Xb2, although I have one. I like the idea of a low pro servo in the 2WD cars because then I can push the remaining electronics forward. Typically I mount my ESC right behind the servo, which is how I've setup my Xb2 CE for now. I am also using a GForce Capacitor, which is a bit heavy, under my receiver, next to my ESC. So my electronics package is as far forward as possible. I did this as I had intended to run this car on carpet first, then later on clay. I haven't run it on carpet and have instead been running it on clay. It's pretty fast, and with minimal work I can usually get on pace, near best of track lap times.

For clarity in comparing servo size. Low Profile vs Full Size. If you have the option to buy either, I'd go for the low pro. More options in terms of weight placement and you can get very close in performance with a quality low pro. You probably don't need more than 200oz-in of torque! haha
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Hope these help
That does help, thanks man! Again, I dont think I need anymore than 200oz of torque, its more for the durability and the brushless motor etc...

I totally understand what you mean.

So does anyone have any recommendations for a good titanium gear, very durable, preferably brushless low profile servo? Must have 200oz of torque, and a .9-.6 speed.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:47 PM   #3260
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Do you mean a different servo other than this one? This is what I'm using. It's not inexpensive, however it is top of the line. Japanese brushless motor, exquisite anodized and machined case.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mks-x6-...l575sl/p450998
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Old 06-23-2016, 05:41 AM   #3261
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Those alloy cased servos are not light, at all. Just a heads up.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:50 AM   #3262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Those alloy cased servos are not light, at all. Just a heads up.
True, but that one is low profile. At 53g, it's about the same weight as a typical savox standard size servi. Great looking servo.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:54 AM   #3263
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Wouldn't you want the mass to be the same? The XB2 needs the weight on the front for turn-in traction, correct?
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:00 AM   #3264
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Anyone test out sway bars on hard packed indoor clay running slicks? My track has a drop down going into a 90 degree turn that you can traction roll almost everytime. Every other part of the track I have no problem. Just curious on the sway bars. Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:56 PM   #3265
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Anyone test out sway bars on hard packed indoor clay running slicks? My track has a drop down going into a 90 degree turn that you can traction roll almost everytime. Every other part of the track I have no problem. Just curious on the sway bars. Thanks.
I assume you're talking about Beachline. What's your setup looking like?

I haven't tried a swaybar on the XB2 but there's a lot of other things you can do that I think would be better.
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Old 06-23-2016, 02:07 PM   #3266
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Anyone test out sway bars on hard packed indoor clay running slicks? My track has a drop down going into a 90 degree turn that you can traction roll almost everytime. Every other part of the track I have no problem. Just curious on the sway bars. Thanks.
ce or de?
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:55 PM   #3267
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Opinion: regarding the DE, in comparison with my previous B5m, my experience so far has been the car drives in between a laydown and traditional mid motor. Doesn't get quite the same traction and can't push it as hard but I'm cornering way faster and have much faster laps. I also have a CE, where my fast lap times are the fastest, but am less consistent in med/med-high grip (not the best driver, yet). Would this be an accurate consensus here or am I "doing it wrong"? All in all its the best buggy I've driven.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:29 PM   #3268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
I assume you're talking about Beachline. What's your setup looking like?

I haven't tried a swaybar on the XB2 but there's a lot of other things you can do that I think would be better.
Correct. I hear the track it getting redone now for regionals. I copied your rear block set up. I have associated yellow front gray rear. All hard plastics.All else basically stock. CE edition. Any suggestions? As I need the steering eveywhere else, it was just that one turn that I kept traction rolling.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:34 PM   #3269
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Correct. I hear the track it getting redone now for regionals. I copied your rear block set up. I have associated yellow front gray rear. All hard plastics.All else basically stock. CE edition. Any suggestions? As I need the steering eveywhere else, it was just that one turn that I kept traction rolling.
Wider rear hexes or more rear toe will help, are you running drag brake? Sometimes that will upset a car.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:55 PM   #3270
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Wider rear hexes or more rear toe will help, are you running drag brake? Sometimes that will upset a car.
No drag brake. Hexes are a good idea though thanks
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