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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-15-2016, 11:24 AM   #3211
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Truer words have never been spoken. looking at some replacement parts right now. outdrives and such. the rebuild gets expensive. may try the losi diff/outdrives since i have a de and ce.
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
If a $55 slipper setup is difficult to swallow, then don't look at the replacement part cost for the Xb2....
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:35 AM   #3212
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Truer words have never been spoken. looking at some replacement parts right now. outdrives and such. the rebuild gets expensive. may try the losi diff/outdrives since i have a de and ce.
The yokomo may work. I'm figuring that out right now as we speak. However....

If you've been watching the B6/B6D information, they're saying the b5m diff fits, but the outdrives are not as long. Which tells me the B6 diff MIGHT be the best fit. However, WillS and I came to the conclusion the Losi and Yok diff fits nicer.

Of course, this is all because we don't want to spend $60 on outdrives every other month because the Xray's are overpriced and wear too quickly, even when changing pins every week. Of course, Bent will come in here and tell me I'm wrong but I still don't care.
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:24 PM   #3213
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anybody having problems with there shocks binding. I have noticed after a few runs the washer on the very bottom gets pushed off to one side in the aluminum cap. then the shaft binds real bad. then if I loosen that bottom aluminum cap and recenter the washer its fine for a few more runs. then back to binding. ive got that bottom cap pretty much as tight as it can get. if I dont find a solution im going to have to switch to associated shocks.
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:32 PM   #3214
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Originally Posted by walter white View Post
anybody having problems with there shocks binding. I have noticed after a few runs the washer on the very bottom gets pushed off to one side in the aluminum cap. then the shaft binds real bad. then if I loosen that bottom aluminum cap and recenter the washer its fine for a few more runs. then back to binding. ive got that bottom cap pretty much as tight as it can get. if I dont find a solution im going to have to switch to associated shocks.
Sounds like your seal stack is hammered. I'd tell you to rebuild them, new seals and plastic bushings.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:20 AM   #3215
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Had issue with a shock today. Finally had my DE strapped, then halfway thru the 1st heat started chassis slapping every small jump. Even when downsiding. Took the buggy off. Felt like shock had no oil in it and it leaked out. There was a small amount of oil at the bottom of the Rod end. Opened up the shock and it was full! Didn't have time to open everything up and just switched to my CE. Teack didn't have Xray parts so it's just sitting. Anyone had one of the shocks feel like it has no oil and its full? Time to rebuild the shocks but just wondering if this sounds familiar to anyone? Thx

QUOTE=Socket;14568722]Sounds like your seal stack is hammered. I'd tell you to rebuild them, new seals and plastic bushings.[/QUOTE]
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:49 AM   #3216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Had issue with a shock today. Finally had my DE strapped, then halfway thru the 1st heat started chassis slapping every small jump. Even when downsiding. Took the buggy off. Felt like shock had no oil in it and it leaked out. There was a small amount of oil at the bottom of the Rod end. Opened up the shock and it was full! Didn't have time to open everything up and just switched to my CE. Teack didn't have Xray parts so it's just sitting. Anyone had one of the shocks feel like it has no oil and its full? Time to rebuild the shocks but just wondering if this sounds familiar to anyone? Thx

QUOTE=Socket;14568722]Sounds like your seal stack is hammered. I'd tell you to rebuild them, new seals and plastic bushings.
[/QUOTE]

sounds like the c clip on top holding the piston has come loose
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:47 AM   #3217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
anybody having problems with there shocks binding. I have noticed after a few runs the washer on the very bottom gets pushed off to one side in the aluminum cap. then the shaft binds real bad. then if I loosen that bottom aluminum cap and recenter the washer its fine for a few more runs. then back to binding. ive got that bottom cap pretty much as tight as it can get. if I dont find a solution im going to have to switch to associated shocks.
Sounds like you may have built the shock seal wrong.

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Old 06-16-2016, 09:19 AM   #3218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Sounds like you may have built the shock seal wrong.

nope took them all apart there definitely built right. I'm going to rebuild them and see how they hold up. only had 3 race days on them so far. seems a little extreme to have to rebuild your shocks that often. sounds like the other guy asking about shocks has exactly the same problem.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:39 AM   #3219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
nope took them all apart there definitely built right. I'm going to rebuild them and see how they hold up. only had 3 race days on them so far. seems a little extreme to have to rebuild your shocks that often. sounds like the other guy asking about shocks has exactly the same problem.
The symptoms sound completely different. His act like there is no oil in them (no resistance), yours are binding (too much resistance).

His piston is probably not secured (no resistance is usually only something with the piston, or lack of oil) as previously referenced.

You're having issues with the 'thick shim', in Symmetricon's diagram?
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:36 AM   #3220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
nope took them all apart there definitely built right. I'm going to rebuild them and see how they hold up. only had 3 race days on them so far. seems a little extreme to have to rebuild your shocks that often. sounds like the other guy asking about shocks has exactly the same problem.
I love it when people blame equipment. Same people who think that since I charge at 50amps I'm faster because of it.

That said, there's a binding problem. Pull the pieces apart, sounds like swollen O rings or some flashing on the bushings, or a bent shock shaft.

The parts can't inherently do any of those functions themselves, they require a user to either put the parts together wrong, not presoak the orings, or crash and bend a shock shaft.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:25 PM   #3221
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Default Multi flex screws

First I apologize if this has been asked but before I got my car I read the first 100 pages of this forum and now there are double that. I just don't have the time to check and see if this has been asked sorry.

So I am converting my XB2 CE to go to dirt. Our carpet track closed and our dirt track is now revamped. Anyways I don't have the money to buy the DE and don't really want to buy extra parts. So I am
Trying to tune my CE to the track the best way possible.

I assume that going full flex will help except that some of the screws they list as flex screws seem to be vital to the cars performance. So which screws do I remove to gain the most flex?

I have already move the both axels forward to give more weight in the rear and moved the shocks to the rear position. Next I will be playing with suspension ( springs/oils/piston) but first I want to get everything mechanically setup for looser track.

Thanks everyone!
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:41 PM   #3222
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Yokomo YZ2/Bmax 2 diff is a drop in fit. Needs a few shims on each side, and it's money. Also you'll need Bmax2 dogbones.
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Last edited by Socket; 06-17-2016 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 06-17-2016, 05:40 AM   #3223
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Yokomo YZ2/Bmax 2 is a drop in fit. Needs a few shims on each side, and it's money. Also you'll need Bmax2 dogbones.
Are you talking about the diff? The whole thing, gear included, or just the outdrives on the XB2 gear?
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:01 AM   #3224
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Are you talking about the diff? The whole thing, gear included, or just the outdrives on the XB2 gear?
Whole except diff gear, the XB2 uses a slightly higher ratio than the others, so the diff gear has one more tooth.
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:14 AM   #3225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Whole except diff gear, the XB2 uses a slightly higher ratio than the others, so the diff gear has one more tooth.
Ok, thanks!
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