R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Like Tree25Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-07-2016, 12:38 PM   #3181
Tech Elite
 
seth556's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,201
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

You may need to raise or lower the roll center, depending on how your car is traction rolling.

Either removing shims on the rear link, you can do the inner or inner and outer shims, or raising the hinge pins will raise the roll center.
seth556 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2016, 12:47 PM   #3182
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,827
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Seth! Interesting thread discussing this here

Understanding and Tuning Roll Center

Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
In high grip situations you use a lower front roll center so the front washes out more and is less responsive. A higher front roll center makes the car more responsive, so that's the last thing you want in high grip.

For the rear, you want a higher roll center in higher grip to keep the rear end from rolling too far on power and washing out.

High grip: lower the front roll center to tame the car, raise the rear roll center to keep it from washing out on power.

Low grip: lower the rear roll center for more low speed grip. Tune the front roll center however you like as being too responsive won't punish you, so you can run a higher roll center if it helps.

My experience is that you almost never mess with front roll center because you can bleed off responsiveness with shock oil or more negative camber up front, but adjusting the rear roll center for grip is very common.

Remember, rear roll center is king.
__________________
JAE
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2016, 02:32 PM   #3183
Tech Elite
 
seth556's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,201
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

It's all relative, you want a balance. You want a car that turns, but don't want to have it so twichy it's undrivable. If the front end just washes out everywhere, high grip or not, it's going to be slow.
seth556 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2016, 02:52 PM   #3184
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,827
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Yup - I think the main point is that we were all lowering our roll center at the track maxxican mentioned to prevent traction rolling. Have not tried raising it yet. thank you
__________________
JAE
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2016, 05:53 PM   #3185
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1,224
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

What piston everyone running. I have avid piston 2x1.6/2x1.1 (400CST) oil Rear and 2x1.5/2x1.1 (525 CST) oil Front. It's seems good in the front but the rear still slamming the ground with small jump.
raved007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2016, 07:21 PM   #3186
Tech Elite
 
English365's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 3,154
Trader Rating: 128 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
What piston everyone running. I have avid piston 2x1.6/2x1.1 (400CST) oil Rear and 2x1.5/2x1.1 (525 CST) oil Front. It's seems good in the front but the rear still slamming the ground with small jump.

2x1.6 500cst 2x1.7 350cst Kyosho gold front, white rear.
__________________
Kyosho America~Thunder Power~Team Orion~KO PROPO~AKA
Mikes Hobby Shop...TeamTreeTop!
English365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 01:39 AM   #3187
Tech Master
 
xrayracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Under your bed.
Posts: 1,181
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, im wanting to put some machined pistons in my Dirt edition. Could anyone recommebd a brand, and also quote the part number?
Cheers.
__________________
Gavin.

Converting nitro to electric is utter blasphemy.
xrayracer1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 06:38 AM   #3188
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 780
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Hey guys, im wanting to put some machined pistons in my Dirt edition. Could anyone recommebd a brand, and also quote the part number?
Cheers.
Schelle and Avid. I prefer the Schelle even though theyre pretty darn close.
__________________
| XRAY XB8E 16' | XRAY XB4 16' | XRAY XB2 CE 17' |
| New England | RCE | RCM |
lyons238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 11:35 AM   #3189
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
Schelle and Avid. I prefer the Schelle even though theyre pretty darn close.
Made by the same shop in China. No differences when I compared all three; Schelle, avid, and Tworkz.
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 11:48 AM   #3190
Tech Elite
 
timannnn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,029
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Made by the same shop in China. No differences when I compared all three; Schelle, avid, and Tworkz.
Not true. I ordered tworks and the Pistons were much smaller outer diameter which caused excessive play in shock body. This was couple of months ago. I would not use those. I'm now running schelle pistons and they fit perfect, better thank Xray pistons.
timannnn6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2016, 06:48 PM   #3191
Tech Master
 
xrayracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Under your bed.
Posts: 1,181
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Ok guys, looking at Amain the Schelle racing pistons they have in stock say compatible with the XB4. Would i be correct in assuming that they are the same as the XB2 shocks?
__________________
Gavin.

Converting nitro to electric is utter blasphemy.
xrayracer1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2016, 09:57 PM   #3192
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1,224
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Ok guys, looking at Amain the Schelle racing pistons they have in stock say compatible with the XB4. Would i be correct in assuming that they are the same as the XB2 shocks?
Yes they are same size with XB2 piston. Just oder Schelle 1.6 and 1.7 too should be here tuesday.
raved007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2016, 12:36 PM   #3193
Tech Master
 
roadrage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Palm Bay, FL.
Posts: 1,220
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, can anyone direct me to a "how to" video setting up an off road 1/10 video? I'm coming from an on road back ground so I am not too fimilar with kick up and how to adjust droop settings on my xb2 for example. Thanks in advance!
__________________
Austin Wolfe
Serpent America-Trinity/Revtech-www.ActivRC.com
roadrage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2016, 02:34 PM   #3194
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 43
Default

does any body have a good set up for a ce on a medium bite clay track. pretty much everyone at the track is using gold dirt webs. I tried just about everything I can think of set up wise to get traction. car is extremely loose just about everywhere on the track. starting to think getting a laydown car to work on clay isnt possible. thought about switching to the dirt trans but at that point I might as well go back to my b5m. car feels like it has the potential to be very fast if I could just get it to hook up.
walter white is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2016, 05:04 PM   #3195
Tech Addict
 
advpball's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 586
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

try lengthening the rear camber link i used another set of steering tie rods move shocks to the back of tower.. helped alot i run on med traction dirt..1.6 1.7 pistons.
__________________
xray xb2 de and xsc2,eb410
eb 48.3 for sale artr 500
all powered by smc battery's and
hobbywing esc, airtronics controlled MT4s
advpball is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:31 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net