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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-06-2016, 11:05 AM   #3166
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To any of you DE owners ... i am having a lot of traction rolling issues on a indoor high bite clay track. I've adjusted roll center up and down many times changed shock oils and springs nothing seems to help. i have to slow down a lot to make a 180* and a hi speed sweeper. what have you guys done for traction rolling??

thx
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:13 AM   #3167
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First question is: are you rolling at the start, middle, or end of the turn?
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:32 AM   #3168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
First question is: are you rolling at the start, middle, or end of the turn?
middle of the turn. by the way running PL Primes.
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:42 AM   #3169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxican View Post
To any of you DE owners ... i am having a lot of traction rolling issues on a indoor high bite clay track. I've adjusted roll center up and down many times changed shock oils and springs nothing seems to help. i have to slow down a lot to make a 180* and a hi speed sweeper. what have you guys done for traction rolling??

thx
Your ride height and droop? Caster and kick up?
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Old 06-06-2016, 02:03 PM   #3170
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Trying gluing the sidewalls of the tires... using CA. Stiffens up the sidewall so it doesn't roll under as hard. Or try a tire with a stiffer sidewall like the Schumacher yellow micro-pins.
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Old 06-06-2016, 02:07 PM   #3171
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what is ride height?

one thing i did was move upper rear shock mount in one hole.
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Old 06-06-2016, 03:01 PM   #3172
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19mm ride height.

I have tried the inside hole on shock tower. Helped a little also using 2dot springs front and rear would changing fronts to 3 dot help?
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Old 06-06-2016, 03:23 PM   #3173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Trying gluing the sidewalls of the tires... using CA. Stiffens up the sidewall so it doesn't roll under as hard. Or try a tire with a stiffer sidewall like the Schumacher yellow micro-pins.
he is running on CLAY and while going from Primes to Mini-Pins will stop his traction rolling it is not what he needs to do. please read the posts before making suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
what is ride height?

one thing i did was move upper rear shock mount in one hole.
moving the upper shock mount in makes the ssuspension more progressive. making the suspension softer as it compresses. Not what you want to change to remedy traction rolling.

High roll centers, sway bars, less uptravel, lcg transmission.

A setup that works well is a combination of a lot of small things, and some key big things being right. lcg is gonna be the new norm on high bite
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:24 PM   #3174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Adragna View Post
he is running on CLAY and while going from Primes to Mini-Pins will stop his traction rolling it is not what he needs to do. please read the posts before making suggestions



moving the upper shock mount in makes the ssuspension more progressive. making the suspension softer as it compresses. Not what you want to change to remedy traction rolling.

High roll centers, sway bars, less uptravel, lcg transmission.

A setup that works well is a combination of a lot of small things, and some key big things being right. lcg is gonna be the new norm on high bite
Just so we're clear, whoever this is, isn't me.
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:30 PM   #3175
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Wouldn't you want a lower lcg for traction rolling and would be able to partly achieve this by adding additional shims to the rear ball stud mount?
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Adragna View Post
he is running on CLAY and while going from Primes to Mini-Pins will stop his traction rolling it is not what he needs to do. please read the posts before making suggestions



moving the upper shock mount in makes the ssuspension more progressive. making the suspension softer as it compresses. Not what you want to change to remedy traction rolling.

High roll centers, sway bars, less uptravel, lcg transmission.

A setup that works well is a combination of a lot of small things, and some key big things being right. lcg is gonna be the new norm on high bite
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:00 PM   #3176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Wouldn't you want a lower lcg for traction rolling and would be able to partly achieve this by adding additional shims to the rear ball stud mount?
Reduce droop, lower roll centers, widen track width.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Just so we're clear, whoever this is, isn't me.
Lol I figured as much.
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Old 06-07-2016, 05:12 AM   #3177
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The car has a ton of roll with the stock setup so I'm assuming that's the issue. Stiffer springs, heavier oil, higher rear roll center, and the hard / carbon parts should all help. Of course the CE sounds like the more ideal transmission setup for this track.

I run on a super high bite clay track and a lot of guys have started cutting their slicks down, taking a strip of rubber out crosswise, to make them low profile which makes the car much more stable.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:05 AM   #3178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Just so we're clear, whoever this is, isn't me.
Unless you are running very odd geometry, wheel rate (suspension stiffness measured at the wheel) won't actually reduce with travel or 'get softer'. The rate of increase of the rate may reduce... I'd like to see manufacturers supply information/plots on wheel rate vs travel for each combo of different spring and mounting position. My friend did this for a B4 and it was super useful. The rate actually changed a lot less than I was expecting over the travel.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:44 AM   #3179
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Bent,

Will Xray be offering a front anti roll bar any time soon for the XB2 CE.
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:14 AM   #3180
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Higher roll center to prevent traction rolling? So, experiment by removing shims on the inner rear ball stud mount?
Thx
Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
The car has a ton of roll with the stock setup so I'm assuming that's the issue. Stiffer springs, heavier oil, higher rear roll center, and the hard / carbon parts should all help. Of course the CE sounds like the more ideal transmission setup for this track.

I run on a super high bite clay track and a lot of guys have started cutting their slicks down, taking a strip of rubber out crosswise, to make them low profile which makes the car much more stable.
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