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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031

Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:

[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]

Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:

Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)

Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.

Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work


(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)


Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)

Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57

368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 05-16-2016, 07:36 AM   #3076
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Source of binding was in the gearbox. To backup - I took the diff out and checked it. Bearing had minor rust (weird used car on carpet...anyhow) but was not source of binding, or the hub bearings. There was a lot of gear diff fluid around the rear of the car. Then I opened up the gearbox.

Bingo - It was full of diff fluid, almost like it exploded in there. Gears turned okay but were just resistant and slow. Fluid all over the bearings as well.

I'm in a bit of a pickle now. I think I need all new bearings for the gearbox because of this binding asap. because of the rust, i'll likely need ones for the hubs (minor surface rust that can be rubbed off though). Looks like I may as well buy a new bearing kit. Puts me about at the cost of buying new. Guess you win some lose some.

What would be the best way of cleaning all this residue and coagulated diff fluid combined with black grease? Can one clean the bearings? I'd like to try fixing this in the meantime as the bearings I need don't get to the shop until next weekend and I'd like to run the car for the time being. Can use those as backups too or just change them out later...

I did get some advice that Xray bearings are better for the long run then avid/schelle, if not getting ceramic so I'm inclined to do that. But someone also mentioned for a little more try to replace some of them with Kyosho if I'm already going to spend that kind of dough. Don't want to buy Avid as my track doesnt stock Avid and I want to buy from the track as they've been helping me with the car.

In any event, thought would update all and thanks for the help. Any suggestions regarding cleaning, refurbishment, bearings, rust, etc.?

order new bearings from Avid.. it would be less than 20 bux.. you will be happy with that.. sometimes rust on the bearings can come from cleaning the car with some liquid that they dont get completly dry. taking the car apart to put new bearings will also let you go through, clean the parts, and make sure everything is in good shape.
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:50 AM   #3077
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i used the Avid Triad slipper eliminator this weekend. its lighter than the exotek, and works great. also the MIP topshaft. i noticed a difference in the initial response of the car.

one thing to note.. you will need parts from the Triad slipper setup. in order for it to work. i didnt know this.. just happened to have the triad setup for mod coming up.. so i had to use that..

also.. you will need a few extra shims outside the tranny case as well in order to use it.

im going to go through it tonight, and see if i can get a good adjustment, and post a list of everything..
Daniel Grobe
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:19 PM   #3078
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what did you need from the avid triad?
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:22 PM   #3079
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
what did you need from the avid triad?
You need the shims and the collar that goes between the bearing and the eliminator.
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:23 PM   #3080
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Avid/Schelle makes pistons for the xray. Anything that fits the XB4 fits this car.
Yea I know but Schelle don't make 2 1.5
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:25 PM   #3081
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Originally Posted by ProfessorX View Post
Yea I know but Schelle don't make 2 1.5 fronts
buy the 1.5 + 1.1 pistons and glue the 1.1 hole shut.
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

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Old 05-16-2016, 03:10 PM   #3082
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
The only thing I have ever seen cut through silicone diff fluid with any effectiveness is VMP Naptha. Put it in a glass mason jar and use a tea ball
for any small parts.

Dunking your chocolate biscuit in the liquid is optional at the end.

We call it Shelite down under. Its good stuff. I also use a ultrasonic cleaner with shelite to clean bearings.

Alternative names

Naphtha is known by various names, depending on its source, composition, uses, and manufacturing company. Some names include ligroin, VM&P Naphtha (Varnish Makers and Painter's Naphtha,[1] Benzin, petroleum naphtha, petroleum spirits, and naphtha ASTM. Another name is shellite (Australia)—also known as white gas (North America), white spirit, or Coleman fuel—which is a white liquid with a hydrocarbon odor. Given its high flammability and low flashpoint (less than -30 °C), it is used in many low-pressure camping stoves. Ronsonol is a brand name used in North America and is marketed as a refill fluid for cigarette lighters.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:32 PM   #3083
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Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
if anyone want's a carbonfiber rear tower with lower holes to add droop pm me if i get enough i'll have 1 made post a pic if u like i'll make more
Thats cool where did you get that sprint conversion?
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:57 PM   #3084
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i havent posted in this section in a while. i have to say, i still love my xb2 and its all i use anymore
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:04 PM   #3085
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Anyone know where I can buy Neon Yellow Xray/Hudy stickers not from China? Thx!
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:24 PM   #3086
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Yes. Stickit1 would be your best bet.
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Old 05-18-2016, 06:55 AM   #3087
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my buddy at dutch oven designs does good work on stickers.. super fast turn around..
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:14 AM   #3088
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Anyone know where I can buy Neon Yellow Xray/Hudy stickers not from China? Thx!
Darkside Designs does nice ones:

Xray XB8E 2016 | MBX7TR Eco | Xray XB4 2017 | Xray XB2 DE | Xray XB8 2017
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:00 AM   #3089
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:12 AM   #3090
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Spring Question: anyone using 2 dot or 3 dot springs?
I found the stock springs way too soft for high grip clay. Used Daniel Grobe's setup of AE gray fronts and Yellow rears, but with 1.6/1.7 schelle pistons and 32.5/30wt oil. Works way better than stock springs.

But the springs have to be close to the top of the shock collar threads to get to a 19mm ride height and sometimes they come loose from the spring up as their extended so far. It's usually only when the buggies off the track but easy to forget.
In any event wondering if anyone has tried 3 dot front with 2 dot rears? The Xray springs on paper have very drastic changes between dots and is not a gradual incremental change like AE.

What's everyone using in Xray springs? Especially high grip clay? thx
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