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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 05-05-2016, 05:01 AM   #2986
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They have:
https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/

There is no rear motor, both cars are mid motor.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:19 AM   #2987
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Quote:
XB2 Slipper Eliminator - Set #324100

XRAY XB2 Slipper Eliminator is a direct replacement for the slipper clutch set. Designed and recommended for use with stock motors to reduce rotating mass, reduce weight, and improve power transfer from motor without any power loss. With the Slipper Eliminator, motor performance is transferred directly to the car, and there is also no need for clutch & slipper adjustment. Exchanging the spur gear is then extremely very quick & easy.

Set includes aluminum slipper shaft, aluminum spur gear hub, and 69T spur gear (an optional 72T spur gear is available).

Reduces rotating mass
Improves power transfer
Eliminates power loss
Direct motor performance transfer
Eliminates need for clutch & slipper adjustment
Easy spur gear exchange
Recommended for stock motors

Bent
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:07 AM   #2988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Built my shocks with 1mm limiter front 0mm rear. Daniel grobe's setup. Bleed shocks and noi oil comes out? Didn't miss any parts followed there oring, small shim, oring, large shim, cap. Is this normal? None of the shocks blead?
no.. you need oil to come out.. means you didnt put enough oil in the shock..
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:49 AM   #2989
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PROBLEM SOLVED: Took exacto knife to remove plastic threading stuck in the bleeder hole.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
no.. you need oil to come out.. means you didnt put enough oil in the shock..

Last edited by JAE; 05-05-2016 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:27 AM   #2990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
They have:
https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/

There is no rear motor, both cars are mid motor.
Sorry was refering to the first presentation of the car:
http://http://www.redrc.net/2015/11/...oad-buggy-kit/

doesn't see Xray change it in their website

do you know why they abandoned this optionnal motor mount position ?

very low grip tracks are present in europe (mostly in the south); so i suppose it's not a commercial issue...
maybe a technical difficulty to make it work as well as the mid position ?
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:49 AM   #2991
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supposedly there was a patent issue with the way they wanted to make the gear box reversible.
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:52 PM   #2992
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what no rear motor? thats ashame im preparing to get one read the first 60 pages of this thread must not have made it there yet
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:46 PM   #2993
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Default 29' Kick up plate

Daniel - I was under the impression the 29 degree gave less steering? Did it give you less steering into the corner, and more speed out of the corner? My track often has a lot of tight 180's. Currently am using a lot of your setup but already have 0 degree caster bushing and 26 degree kick up plate. thx sir

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i think the stock is 26* block.. i just went with 29.. doubt the weight was that big of a difference.. but.. i know it aided in it.. the 29* sure helped with the higher corner speed i was looking for..

remember.. with the 29/23 plate.. you need to order the optional front brace.. the stock front brace wont work with it..

and you will need two set screws to tighten onto the hinge pins..
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Old 05-05-2016, 02:16 PM   #2994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Daniel - I was under the impression the 29 degree gave less steering? Did it give you less steering into the corner, and more speed out of the corner? My track often has a lot of tight 180's. Currently am using a lot of your setup but already have 0 degree caster bushing and 26 degree kick up plate. thx sir
I'd imagine the 29* would give you more weight transfer to the front. At high speed I'd think the kickup wouldn't make much difference, just the overall caster.

More caster should be - more initial steering and less coming out of the corner due to the weight transferring more easily on and off the front of the car
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:54 AM   #2995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
I'd imagine the 29* would give you more weight transfer to the front. At high speed I'd think the kickup wouldn't make much difference, just the overall caster.

More caster should be - more initial steering and less coming out of the corner due to the weight transferring more easily on and off the front of the car
As you said, more kick up will increase weight transfer to the front end and increase total caster. More caster is typically less initial steering and more mid corner.
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:36 AM   #2996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
Sorry was refering to the first presentation of the car:
http://http://www.redrc.net/2015/11/...oad-buggy-kit/

doesn't see Xray change it in their website

do you know why they abandoned this optionnal motor mount position ?

very low grip tracks are present in europe (mostly in the south); so i suppose it's not a commercial issue...
maybe a technical difficulty to make it work as well as the mid position ?
My mid motor AE w/Xfactory kit, slaughters my rear motor B4 in low grip situations.

It's all about weight transfer with the new cars. They ain't skateboard suspensions anymore. Run more front droop and get the turning done early with agressive turn-in settings.
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:28 AM   #2997
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
Brought my car out for the first run yesterday. Wasnt very good at all but I just need to tune it. Broke the front hinge pin holder in a crash on my 4th battery pack after making some changes and ended my day. Got the car to where it feels just like my B5M just before I added the brass rear weight to that. Im just struggling with rear traction right now with this car. Need another full day at the track to try and figure out where to make adjustments
Rob, I'll pm you my setup. I started with nate jaskot's smactrack setup. On our last layout, it was money. But, I didn't need a lot of off-and on power steering. Our current layout, I needed to make some minor adjustments to that smactrack setup (i.e. softer front spring, change in rear roll center, changed wheelbase,) and it was decent and still had tons of rear traction. But, it lacked some off-power steering (and a little on-power). Then, put on some electron fronts (I know, basic. don't ask me what I ran before, as I like a real smooth, non-twitchy car). Now the car is money.

The track's now ready for slicks. So, put them on for Wednesday during a club race. Car was even better. Shawn drove it, too. He loved it.

Loving the car. Plus it's luxury. I may come in my suit on wednesday. lol. just kidding
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:59 AM   #2998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Daniel - I was under the impression the 29 degree gave less steering? Did it give you less steering into the corner, and more speed out of the corner? My track often has a lot of tight 180's. Currently am using a lot of your setup but already have 0 degree caster bushing and 26 degree kick up plate. thx sir
the car corners much better and faster.. before i was having to wait.. wait for the front end to catch before the car would corner.. now.. the car seems to carry the corner speed much faster.. i can drive in harder.. and it keeps the line im looking for..

when i decided to switch.. was mainly just to test.. see what the car would do both ways.. but.. with the 29.. it was exactly what i was looking for.. so i never flipped it..

more castor gives more high speed steering at mid/exit corner.. more kickup allows more front weight transfer..
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:05 AM   #2999
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something to add about the slipper eliminator add that xray released.. it says you can go 30t-35t with 69t spur..

we noticed on the DE edition of the car.. as well as verifying with Joe and a few others on XB2 nation.. the DE, with 69t spur.. you cant go lower than a 32t pinion.. i raced 32 last week.. and nothing stripped.. but.. its not as tight as i would like mesh wise.. 31t wont fit with 69t spur.

i think with the CE, mackenzie showed that you could get down to 31, possibly even 30. not certain on that though..
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:11 AM   #3000
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Originally Posted by Turtlex View Post
what no rear motor? thats ashame im preparing to get one read the first 60 pages of this thread must not have made it there yet
mid motor conversions are the way now. especially with the way tracks are going these days. i have the DE conversion on my carpet edition, and its very good. i dont think you will be disappointed with the mid version over a rear motor. whichever brand you choose.
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