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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 05-01-2016, 10:40 AM   #2941
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Who's using HUDY Oil in their Xray? Or what do you use?
I use pro spec, but hudy is great oil as well.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:41 AM   #2942
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Anyone have any examples where the carpet is faster than dirt on high bite clay with associated setup tips? Wondering if I bought my 2nd xb2 carpet in vain if only driving in clay? Thx
It depends on how you drive. My carpet car carries more corner speed and jumps better, but my dirt is easier to drive and almost as fast.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:33 PM   #2943
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Default Carpet on clay

Do you change your ride height on clay or are most still running in the upper teens for the carpet addition? Any issues with chassis slap on the bigger jumps?Thx
Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
It depends on how you drive. My carpet car carries more corner speed and jumps better, but my dirt is easier to drive and almost as fast.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:34 PM   #2944
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Do you change your ride height on clay or are most still running in the upper teens for the carpet addition? Any issues with chassis slap on the bigger jumps?Thx
I'm running 18/19 or 19:18 on clay and 17/17 or as low as I can go on carpet. Chassis does slap, but it's not avoidable on the current jumps.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:54 PM   #2945
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Default Re

How are the shocks Setup? Are you running internal limiters? How would raising the ride Height affect chassis slap and cornering? Thx QUOTE=B00t13g;14513852]I'm running 18/19 or 19:18 on clay and 17/17 or as low as I can go on carpet. Chassis does slap, but it's not avoidable on the current jumps.[/QUOTE]
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:57 PM   #2946
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Anyone else take out their battery brace for low traction track?
much gain in traction with the extra flex?
can't get to the local track for a back to back test for a few days
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Old 05-01-2016, 04:00 PM   #2947
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How are the shocks Setup? Are you running internal limiters? How would raising the ride Height affect chassis slap and cornering? Thx QUOTE=B00t13g;14513852]I'm running 18/19 or 19:18 on clay and 17/17 or as low as I can go on carpet. Chassis does slap, but it's not avoidable on the current jumps.
[/QUOTE]

2mm up front 0 in the rear using kyosho hard eyelits. It would make it less prone to bottom out. I've never had a car work that didn't bottom out at least occasionally. 3x1.3 front and rear. 500/350. Kyosho red front, gold rear. I would start at gold front, white rear.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:50 PM   #2948
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What are your upstop shims? Thx

2mm up front 0 in the rear using kyosho hard eyelits. It would make it less prone to bottom out. I've never had a car work that didn't bottom out at least occasionally. 3x1.3 front and rear. 500/350. Kyosho red front, gold rear. I would start at gold front, white rear.[/QUOTE]
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:42 PM   #2949
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What are your upstop shims? Thx



2mm up front 0 in the rear using kyosho hard eyelits. It would make it less prone to bottom out. I've never had a car work that didn't bottom out at least occasionally. 3x1.3 front and rear. 500/350. Kyosho red front, gold rear. I would start at gold front, white rear.
[/QUOTE]

2mm front, 0 rear. The longer kyosho eyelets act as if I'm running 2mm or so of up travel shims. Need to test it more.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:21 AM   #2950
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i posted a video in XB2 nation on facebook.. to show the clay track i race on.. and i switched from CE to DE, and am much faster with the DE.. here is a link if it works.. this is 4wd.. im not running 4wd.. but.. i would have qualified 3rd in the A main.. with my 2wd..

https://www.facebook.com/10000940464...7963295193810/
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:50 AM   #2951
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i posted a video in XB2 nation on facebook.. to show the clay track i race on.. and i switched from CE to DE, and am much faster with the DE.. here is a link if it works.. this is 4wd.. im not running 4wd.. but.. i would have qualified 3rd in the A main.. with my 2wd..

https://www.facebook.com/10000940464...7963295193810/
unavailable. make sure the original is avail to public
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:19 AM   #2952
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i don't do facebook, so i can't see XB2 Nation stuff. whoever set it up, imo should allow viewing
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:56 PM   #2953
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unavailable. make sure the original is avail to public
yea.. couldnt get that vid.. sorry.. but.. i did post a picture..
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:57 PM   #2954
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here is the picture of our dirt.. i changed from CE, to DE, and like the DE better..
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Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-13102646_872973742830459_4474035985631309421_n.jpg  
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:59 PM   #2955
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Anyone else take out their battery brace for low traction track?
much gain in traction with the extra flex?
can't get to the local track for a back to back test for a few days
If you are taping the battery in you can remove the brace.

I would do that as a last resort though. First try flipping the battery brace thumb screws so that the tapered side is up. This will give you more flex still provide some sort stopping point if you take a hard hit.
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