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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-27-2016, 10:58 PM   #2911
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Turns out my stock setup isn't perfect in mod. Back to work.
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:58 AM   #2912
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Default RE - Diff

_jk79782

Did you fix your problem? What was it? Was it happening with both of the DE'syou have? Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
Ive tried everything u guys are mentioning..I've glued my diff ring down tried a new diff ect.. Dude this car is frustrating I feel like selling it
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:27 PM   #2913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
_jk79782

Did you fix your problem? What was it? Was it happening with both of the DE'syou have? Thanks
Na just with one of them ... The other I haven't built yet 😂
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:28 PM   #2914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
Na just with one of them ... The other I haven't built yet 😂
I sent you my number hit me up to talk about the trade
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:55 PM   #2915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
your setup sheet says you are not running the upper brace between the battery and the motor. is that for more flex? can you show some pics of that?

I'm running the setup you first posted, and i really like it. but have only been able to run it one weekend so far.

Also you were talking about wanting to narrow your rear pivot, you could do center dot in the front hanger and 1deg in on the rear, that would narrow it up a bit and keep your toe the same (but not as much as you want I don't think)
And what are you looking to change with that?
Thanks
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:46 PM   #2916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
your setup sheet says you are not running the upper brace between the battery and the motor. is that for more flex? can you show some pics of that?

I'm running the setup you first posted, and i really like it. but have only been able to run it one weekend so far.

Also you were talking about wanting to narrow your rear pivot, you could do center dot in the front hanger and 1deg in on the rear, that would narrow it up a bit and keep your toe the same (but not as much as you want I don't think)
And what are you looking to change with that?
Thanks
Here's a quick snap of the car right now.



Glad the setup is working well for you. I'm super happy with the car.

I want to go to the most narrow location as this car stock has a VERY wide pivot. Which for high bite is very much welcomed - the idea for the narrower pivot is to make the car more progressive when it rolls in a corner. Wider can make the car react quicker in my experience, but also force you to run the car stiffer roll center wise to make up for this. The narrow pivot can add corner speed on a looser surface.

The issue I have, is if I go "full narrow" I have to revert to 4 degrees of toe which would go against my plan to gain corner speed.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:54 PM   #2917
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If I'm critiquing that setup, and imo:

no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.

also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.

rear oil is too heavy as well.


If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:57 PM   #2918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkracer24 View Post
If I'm critiquing that setup, and imo:

no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.

also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.

rear oil is too heavy as well.


If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
I'm not adding weight for 17.5, and do like the Xray wheels. I'll keep an eye on the chassis, but never had an issue with tweak on the previous cars I've ran.

I spaced the block up because of the bent D mounts several experienced. waiting for the exotek to drop so I won't have to worry about it.

I'm also going to try the dremeled lower front spindle soon.

I've since gone up in rear oil.

Edit: it's also 105 outside already, btw.
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Old 04-28-2016, 08:37 PM   #2919
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ahh.. didn't event think about the temp so that makes sense

when you do the front spindle you are going to have to dremel the caster block and steering block for clearance. I definitely helps smooth out the steering as well.

curious to see the exotek myself. did he say when they are going to be out?
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:37 PM   #2920
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Ok I glanced over the XB2 Nation page and didn't see anything about modifying the front spindles...spill it!
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:19 PM   #2921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkracer24 View Post
If I'm critiquing that setup, and imo:

no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.

also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.

rear oil is too heavy as well.


If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
alot of SRS - Phx - AZ drivers run their various make cars with their battery taped in, in stock and mod, whether they run clay indoor hi traction or at outdoor looser tracks. sorta a trend here

i space both rear carriers up also, actually started doing it not to prevent breaking but to stop the severe dragging of the rear carrier and rear A-arms. on a moist track they drag on huge jump launches and on landings. packing the area with mud because the rear lobes hang below the chassis. see first photo below.

Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

so even if Xray beefs them up, and Exotech makes a 3deg - beefed up version, if the lobes are still too low, i will continue spacing up both rear carriers. something imo, ozite track owners may want to watch out for on their tracks, with 2 ends of the rear carrier hitting the carpet first instead of just a chassis flat slapping on landings like other cars

30W oil in the rear was not cutting it in my car, due to jumps at our track it is too soft, i went up 2.5 at a time, i stopped at 37.5 in the rear, 1.6 pistons F/R. i run kyosho golds front and rear, and at times TLR hi-freq silver-F and red or pink-R springs. 10.5 motor and a 32G under battery weight

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 04-29-2016 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:55 AM   #2922
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There's about a half mm difference between the middle roll center bushing and the 1* roll center option. So keep that in mind when spacing up the blocks. I actually spaced the rear block and kept the front the same so I could run the highest roll center option but have 3.5* of toe, seems to be the best combo I've found for my track.

I'm running a similar oil and piston combo as Socket's setup on my CE, I think since the Xray pistons are thinner than other cars we run higher weight oil to get the same feeling as a lower weight on another car. Or tracks are just getting higher bite...
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:16 AM   #2923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkracer24 View Post
ahh.. didn't event think about the temp so that makes sense

when you do the front spindle you are going to have to dremel the caster block and steering block for clearance. I definitely helps smooth out the steering as well.

curious to see the exotek myself. did he say when they are going to be out?
Leon he said it wouldn't be long. I'll fire off an email to Mike today and find out whats up.

Do you have pics of the spindle and castor block change?
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:21 AM   #2924
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My XB2 should be here soon. it is the CE edition and will only run on carpet.

What are the must have upgrades? I was thinking...

- alum front and rear roll center holders
- alum rear uprights
- alum servo mounts
- alum front brace and suspension holder?
- alum DE steering plate?

Will that about cover me for a nice durable, nimble, and smooth carpet and astro car?
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Last edited by lyons238; 04-29-2016 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:52 AM   #2925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
There's about a half mm difference between the middle roll center bushing and the 1* roll center option. So keep that in mind when spacing up the blocks. I actually spaced the rear block and kept the front the same so I could run the highest roll center option but have 3.5* of toe, seems to be the best combo I've found for my track.

I'm running a similar oil and piston combo as Socket's setup on my CE, I think since the Xray pistons are thinner than other cars we run higher weight oil to get the same feeling as a lower weight on another car. Or tracks are just getting higher bite...
The manual says the .5 inserts are .375mm and the 1 is .75mm from center.
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