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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-26-2016, 08:02 PM   #2896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppin Fresh View Post
I will be converting my Carpet Edition into the Dirt Edition. Will I be needing a different body or will I just have to trim the existing body that came with the carpet edition?
Just trim the existing body (they are the same).
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:53 AM   #2897
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Looking
So how'd my setup work for you?

Pretty easy to blame the car...
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:55 AM   #2898
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Originally Posted by spook View Post
My diff was the same, my son's is perfect. I tried everything, CA glued diff rings, still slipped and really tight. I noticed the diff nut was bottomed out on the outdrive, I used a 1mm shim between the spring and nut, now it is perfect, doesn't slip and silky smooth.
before you did this were you having rear traction problems?
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:01 AM   #2899
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
So how'd my setup work for you?

Pretty easy to blame the car...
it worked good actually...I was at the rack last night and it was handling great., not really blaming the car haha but I actually have two DE gonna part with one of them..but what exact set up are u using I would like to get this thing more dialed in..
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:05 AM   #2900
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Some pics of my Xb2 I posted on "XB2 nation".







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Old 04-27-2016, 10:14 AM   #2901
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^ did you shim the top and bottom, or just the bottom of your shock?
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:46 AM   #2902
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^ did you shim the top and bottom, or just the bottom of your shock?
Top and bottom
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Old 04-27-2016, 02:36 PM   #2903
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Top and bottom
Thank you sir.
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Old 04-27-2016, 03:37 PM   #2904
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Originally Posted by ooberman View Post
Once, to make sure it was greased. Used to have a Durango, not really sure how this c-clip is hard to handle....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
Yes it's very tight out of the car yet slips in very odd I'll clean and build it correctly put it in and it slips it needs adjusted so much when removed is too tight and drives like the diff feels
This is my theory.

My diff worked fine on its first outing. Before using it I pulled it apart and put more grease on the main gear balls. Set it and it worked fine. After this race meeting, I pulled it apart and cleaned it all. I had trouble getting the c-clip out. I was using a set of pliers that I had filed down into a point to be able to close the c-clip. Once cleaned, re greased and back together it felt like ‘shit’. It was rough when turned, I had to tighten it all the way up just so the main gear would not slip, but then it felt like a spool. What have I done? 

I sanded the c-clip to make sure there were no burs on it. A little better.

So I order a new bag of c-clip and the Hudy c-clip pliers.


Installed the new c-clip and the diff was as good as new.


It was like the c-clip was squashed or dirt/grease in the groove and the c-clip wasn’t seated correctly.


Try a new c-clip if you haven"t already. That's how I fixed mine.
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Old 04-27-2016, 04:46 PM   #2905
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I've had the exact same thing happen. Cleaned out the diff and it was still gritty after re-assembling it. I'll have to check that clip to sand it or just replace it to see if it helps. This is good insight, thanks for sharing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
This is my theory.

My diff worked fine on its first outing. Before using it I pulled it apart and put more grease on the main gear balls. Set it and it worked fine. After this race meeting, I pulled it apart and cleaned it all. I had trouble getting the c-clip out. I was using a set of pliers that I had filed down into a point to be able to close the c-clip. Once cleaned, re greased and back together it felt like ‘shit’. It was rough when turned, I had to tighten it all the way up just so the main gear would not slip, but then it felt like a spool. What have I done? 

I sanded the c-clip to make sure there were no burs on it. A little better.

So I order a new bag of c-clip and the Hudy c-clip pliers.


Installed the new c-clip and the diff was as good as new.


It was like the c-clip was squashed or dirt/grease in the groove and the c-clip wasn’t seated correctly.


Try a new c-clip if you haven"t already. That's how I fixed mine.
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:21 PM   #2906
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Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
before you did this were you having rear traction problems?
Yeah, getting back on the power. I also flipped thrust washers over to smooth side. This made the most difference.
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:56 PM   #2907
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Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
before you did this were you having rear traction problems?
JK79782 i think you to trade your DE to rb6? Let me tell you i drove rb6 in my local track can't compare DE. XB2 DE is easy to drive that rb6. Let me know if you selling your DE my buddy looking xb2 DE he is selling RB6 lol.
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:59 PM   #2908
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Thinking about getting an XB2 but don't know which one to get.. I'll be running mainly on dirt but i know i'll do some carpet racing from time to time. Which edition should i get? is one better to convert back and forth?
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:23 PM   #2909
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Thinking about getting an XB2 but don't know which one to get.. I'll be running mainly on dirt but i know i'll do some carpet racing from time to time. Which edition should i get? is one better to convert back and forth?
Carpet comes with both sets of plastics which makes it the better buy to me. It's not to convert the transmission over to the dirt either.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:42 PM   #2910
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Battery Holder to suit this chassis is in the works.

Its going to be one light DE
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