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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-25-2016, 02:17 PM   #2851
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Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
The zero anti squat was for more rear traction. Springs and toe are stock
Zero is interesting. It sounds like you have a slipper and ESC setup issue. 4 degrees of toe, stock springs, and on a track that runs slicks, being loose is insane.

What else have you tried changing?

I would recommend going back to 2 degrees of anti squat.

I would change to a 78 tooth spur to put more weight over the rear, run a 24 tooth pinion. What timing is the motor set to? I'd start at 20 to get it to soften the bottom end.

Is the ESC in blinky mode, or do you have boost/timing added there?

When you test the slipper, how much rise are you getting?
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:19 PM   #2852
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Post your setup? I have traction for days on both cars.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:21 PM   #2853
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Is 78/24 the standard 8.5 gearing these days?
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:27 PM   #2854
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Zero is interesting. It sounds like you have a slipper and ESC setup issue. 4 degrees of toe, stock springs, and on a track that runs slicks, being loose is insane.

What else have you tried changing?

I would recommend going back to 2 degrees of anti squat.

I would change to a 78 tooth spur to put more weight over the rear, run a 24 tooth pinion. What timing is the motor set to? I'd start at 20 to get it to soften the bottom end.

Is the ESC in blinky mode, or do you have boost/timing added there?

When you test the slipper, how much rise are you getting?
My motor timing is at 30. My esc is not in blindly mode and no timing or boost added . As far as my slipper goes my front end barely gets off the ground about an eight of an inch when tested.. Should I be getting more rise ? How much would the 78/24 gearing change things
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:27 PM   #2855
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Post your setup? I have traction for days on both cars.
What is your exact set up
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:28 PM   #2856
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Is 78/24 the standard 8.5 gearing these days?
It's where I like to start. I never pay attention to the manuals, I like to go with what feels best. That gearing would be a good start for someone new.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:28 PM   #2857
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Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
What is your exact set up
My xb4 is fine lol it's my xb2 that causing all the problems
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:31 PM   #2858
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My motor timing is at 30. My esc is not in blindly mode and no timing or boost added . As far as my slipper goes my front end barely gets off the ground about an eight of an inch when tested.. Should I be getting more rise ? How much would the 78/24 gearing change things
That's about right for slipper.

24x78 will move the motor further towards the rear axle.

What car did you race before the XB2?
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Old 04-25-2016, 03:53 PM   #2859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
That's about right for slipper.

24x78 will move the motor further towards the rear axle.

What car did you race before the XB2?
I had a b5 m and a 22 3.0
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:19 PM   #2860
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Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
I had a b5 m and a 22 3.0
I would recommend starting with my setup I posted, and then go from there.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:04 PM   #2861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
I did the same yet it still was loose when running the car I pulled the diff it was like a spool way too tight for a ball diff yet it slipped there's something wrong imo. My car drives like it has a gear diff
Is the bolt done all the way up (tight) and the diff feels really rough and hard to turn (as you said, like a spool), yet the main gear can still be spun by your fingers?
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Last edited by Boz; 04-25-2016 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:44 PM   #2862
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Couldn't find the axles either. Mods sounding better and better.
You guys must have forgot how to use google.

http://miponline.com/store/mip14146.html
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:54 PM   #2863
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Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
im running a ball diff on clay . Indoors by the way.. And it's on power when I'm making a turn or coming out of a corner
check your thrust bearings in your diff.

I've experience this problems and that's what it was for me.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:03 PM   #2864
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You guys must have forgot how to use google.

http://miponline.com/store/mip14146.html
I found that via Google last night, but you can't find them in their webstore otherwise.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:18 PM   #2865
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I found that via Google last night, but you can't find them in their webstore otherwise.
Correct. you need to email them. I talked with Matt over the weekend. We might get lucky in the near future
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