Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
|
|||
#2821
1 PM
Can anybody give me any tips on setups for medium to high bite clay..I run indoors at Scvrc in Santa Clarita CA. The problem is that no matter what I do or what set up I've used I can't seem to get rear traction on a consistent basis.. I'm running an 8.5 reedy with a tekin rsx , 81/23 gearing, and slicks all the way around... When the track is dry I'll throw on my microns.. One big problem I'm having is when I slow down into a corner or to turn I keep spinning out once I pull the throttle...this also happens when I take off...id appreciate anyone's advice .. Thanks
Can anybody give me any tips on setups for medium to high bite clay..I run indoors at Scvrc in Santa Clarita CA. The problem is that no matter what I do or what set up I've used I can't seem to get rear traction on a consistent basis.. I'm running an 8.5 reedy with a tekin rsx , 81/23 gearing, and slicks all the way around... When the track is dry I'll throw on my microns.. One big problem I'm having is when I slow down into a corner or to turn I keep spinning out once I pull the throttle...this also happens when I take off...id appreciate anyone's advice .. Thanks
#2822
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
diff
1 PM
Can anybody give me any tips on setups for medium to high bite clay..I run indoors at Scvrc in Santa Clarita CA. The problem is that no matter what I do or what set up I've used I can't seem to get rear traction on a consistent basis.. I'm running an 8.5 reedy with a tekin rsx , 81/23 gearing, and slicks all the way around... When the track is dry I'll throw on my microns.. One big problem I'm having is when I slow down into a corner or to turn I keep spinning out once I pull the throttle...this also happens when I take off...id appreciate anyone's advice .. Thanks
Can anybody give me any tips on setups for medium to high bite clay..I run indoors at Scvrc in Santa Clarita CA. The problem is that no matter what I do or what set up I've used I can't seem to get rear traction on a consistent basis.. I'm running an 8.5 reedy with a tekin rsx , 81/23 gearing, and slicks all the way around... When the track is dry I'll throw on my microns.. One big problem I'm having is when I slow down into a corner or to turn I keep spinning out once I pull the throttle...this also happens when I take off...id appreciate anyone's advice .. Thanks
#2823
You didn't say what car you have...a dirt edition or a carpet edition. Socket posted a setup sheet a few pages back. He is having very good luck getting his car to hook up and go fast.
#2828
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Xray XB2 MIP Puck write-up
Parts Needed:
• 1x MIP TLR outdrives Male 13147
• 1x MIP TLR outdrive Female 13148
• 1x MIP TLR rebuild kit 13149
• 2x MIP Yokomo Bmax2 dogbone 14146
• 1x MIP No.1 Pucks 13131
• 1x MIP No.1 Driveshaft Pins/Screws 13132
• 2x 1mm diff spacer
Build the ball differential like normal. Use the Xray diff gear. You can use the bearings and diff balls that come with the Xb2.
I did upgrade the thrust assembly with a Protek ceramic caged thrust bearing. To do this use the MIP inner thrust washer and the small hole thrust washer supplied with the caged thrust bearing, this is important to do otherwise you risk damaging the diff.
The MIP Yokomo dogbones are a direct replacement for the Xray, no modifying needed. I used stock Yokomo Bmax2 dogbones that I modified to fit.
When you are ready to install the diff, it does require some shims to center it. I used 0.9mm (4x 0.2mm and 1x 0.1mm) on each side, this did have a little play so a 1mm should make for a tighter fit. Top racing sells a spacer kit that is this measurement or use typical metric diff shims.
This is what I did to build my car, and the fit is really nice. MIP is constantly improving their products and ready to help further the industry. My diff has never been smoother and has near zero slip with a tight slipper or lockout setup. Also you increase uptravel without a dogbone bind.
If you need to order any of the MIP parts feel free to contact MIP.
Parts Needed:
• 1x MIP TLR outdrives Male 13147
• 1x MIP TLR outdrive Female 13148
• 1x MIP TLR rebuild kit 13149
• 2x MIP Yokomo Bmax2 dogbone 14146
• 1x MIP No.1 Pucks 13131
• 1x MIP No.1 Driveshaft Pins/Screws 13132
• 2x 1mm diff spacer
Build the ball differential like normal. Use the Xray diff gear. You can use the bearings and diff balls that come with the Xb2.
I did upgrade the thrust assembly with a Protek ceramic caged thrust bearing. To do this use the MIP inner thrust washer and the small hole thrust washer supplied with the caged thrust bearing, this is important to do otherwise you risk damaging the diff.
The MIP Yokomo dogbones are a direct replacement for the Xray, no modifying needed. I used stock Yokomo Bmax2 dogbones that I modified to fit.
When you are ready to install the diff, it does require some shims to center it. I used 0.9mm (4x 0.2mm and 1x 0.1mm) on each side, this did have a little play so a 1mm should make for a tighter fit. Top racing sells a spacer kit that is this measurement or use typical metric diff shims.
This is what I did to build my car, and the fit is really nice. MIP is constantly improving their products and ready to help further the industry. My diff has never been smoother and has near zero slip with a tight slipper or lockout setup. Also you increase uptravel without a dogbone bind.
If you need to order any of the MIP parts feel free to contact MIP.
#2830
RE cornering
Daniel - Was it the extra weight, or the 29 degree over the stock that aided in the turning/not stalling? I have not completed my DE build yet.
I run on medium/high bite indoor clay at SCVRC.Medium size tight track. Any tips in setup while i'm still building? This may help the other fellow posting about the same track here... thx
Here is a link (not me but my track)...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0jqUDqU7c4
I run on medium/high bite indoor clay at SCVRC.Medium size tight track. Any tips in setup while i'm still building? This may help the other fellow posting about the same track here... thx
Here is a link (not me but my track)...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0jqUDqU7c4
Last edited by JAE; 04-25-2016 at 11:23 AM. Reason: sp
#2831
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
20 degrees over stock? i think the stock is 26* block.. i just went with 29.. doubt the weight was that big of a difference.. but.. i know it aided in it.. the 29* sure helped with the higher corner speed i was looking for..
remember.. with the 29/23 plate.. you need to order the optional front brace.. the stock front brace wont work with it..
and you will need two set screws to tighten onto the hinge pins..
remember.. with the 29/23 plate.. you need to order the optional front brace.. the stock front brace wont work with it..
and you will need two set screws to tighten onto the hinge pins..
#2832
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
Xray XB2 MIP Puck write-up
Parts Needed:
• 1x MIP TLR outdrives Male 13147
• 1x MIP TLR outdrive Female 13148
• 1x MIP TLR rebuild kit 13149
• 2x MIP Yokomo Bmax2 dogbone 14146
• 1x MIP No.1 Pucks 13131
• 1x MIP No.1 Driveshaft Pins/Screws 13132
• 2x 1mm diff spacer
Build the ball differential like normal. Use the Xray diff gear. You can use the bearings and diff balls that come with the Xb2.
I did upgrade the thrust assembly with a Protek ceramic caged thrust bearing. To do this use the MIP inner thrust washer and the small hole thrust washer supplied with the caged thrust bearing, this is important to do otherwise you risk damaging the diff.
The MIP Yokomo dogbones are a direct replacement for the Xray, no modifying needed. I used stock Yokomo Bmax2 dogbones that I modified to fit.
When you are ready to install the diff, it does require some shims to center it. I used 0.9mm (4x 0.2mm and 1x 0.1mm) on each side, this did have a little play so a 1mm should make for a tighter fit. Top racing sells a spacer kit that is this measurement or use typical metric diff shims.
This is what I did to build my car, and the fit is really nice. MIP is constantly improving their products and ready to help further the industry. My diff has never been smoother and has near zero slip with a tight slipper or lockout setup. Also you increase uptravel without a dogbone bind.
If you need to order any of the MIP parts feel free to contact MIP.
Parts Needed:
• 1x MIP TLR outdrives Male 13147
• 1x MIP TLR outdrive Female 13148
• 1x MIP TLR rebuild kit 13149
• 2x MIP Yokomo Bmax2 dogbone 14146
• 1x MIP No.1 Pucks 13131
• 1x MIP No.1 Driveshaft Pins/Screws 13132
• 2x 1mm diff spacer
Build the ball differential like normal. Use the Xray diff gear. You can use the bearings and diff balls that come with the Xb2.
I did upgrade the thrust assembly with a Protek ceramic caged thrust bearing. To do this use the MIP inner thrust washer and the small hole thrust washer supplied with the caged thrust bearing, this is important to do otherwise you risk damaging the diff.
The MIP Yokomo dogbones are a direct replacement for the Xray, no modifying needed. I used stock Yokomo Bmax2 dogbones that I modified to fit.
When you are ready to install the diff, it does require some shims to center it. I used 0.9mm (4x 0.2mm and 1x 0.1mm) on each side, this did have a little play so a 1mm should make for a tighter fit. Top racing sells a spacer kit that is this measurement or use typical metric diff shims.
This is what I did to build my car, and the fit is really nice. MIP is constantly improving their products and ready to help further the industry. My diff has never been smoother and has near zero slip with a tight slipper or lockout setup. Also you increase uptravel without a dogbone bind.
If you need to order any of the MIP parts feel free to contact MIP.
#2833
29 degree (it was a typo - corrected). the 29 degree aided in corner speed, as in power on cornering or a sweeper? Or, turning radius with tight 180's etc? Also, what is the optional front brace... if you happen to have links, that would be awesome as I can't seem to find the 29 degree anywhere or teh optional front brace. Thanks!
#2835
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
got rid of the corner push i was feeling.. especially in the tighter sections.. the 180's.. the car would hold the corner better.. and rotates much better once i made that change.. and that was on the carpet car.. i still have it on the dirt converted.. and the car is faster..