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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-21-2016, 01:55 PM
  #2806  
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Originally Posted by avaldes
Hey Socket, what snap-ring pliers did you end up getting?
not socket....but i went with these for $4 http://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ri...ads-60531.html
they have other options to go with also

there are many options for snap ring pliers, Sears sells alot of models, i have not gone there personally but these look like they might work

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-snap-...2&blockType=G2
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:31 PM
  #2807  
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So I'm 95% with the car at this point. It's fast, and has stellar rear bite. Really looking for a bit more rotation and corner speed. The front likes to stall a little mid corner.

Going to add a little weight on the front and see the affect.
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:48 PM
  #2808  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
cmon man.. let it go..
We shouldn't shoot the messenger. If you were to graph the complaints directed at Bent, and Bent's participation in the thread, you would see a perfectly inverted correlation. I find Bent's help very valuable and hopefully he begins posting here more often again. my 2cents

Last edited by JAE; 04-21-2016 at 03:50 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:57 PM
  #2809  
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Originally Posted by Socket
I thought the fix was to loctite the screws?
Oh Socket. You make me laugh.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:51 PM
  #2810  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
cmon man.. let it go..
More as a joke is why I said it. Just a little giggle, really.

That said, I will shy away from the updated part; it still doesn't fix the insane 4 degrees of toe in the stock block. The exotek part will reset toe to 3 degrees, and this will allow me to play with the narrow and wide pivot while staying at 3 degrees toe.
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:11 AM
  #2811  
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Sorry if I've missed if already posted , What is the final drive ratio of the XB2 DE with 3 gear ?
cheers Mark
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:43 AM
  #2812  
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Same as the 4 gear. 2.65 times the pinion/spur ratio. The only difference is one less idler, but they are the same size. Thus the same gear ratio.
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Old 04-22-2016, 07:32 AM
  #2813  
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Adding 10 grams...

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Old 04-22-2016, 09:30 PM
  #2814  
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Thanks for the reply about FD ratio .
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:16 AM
  #2815  
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Wow!!! What an unbelievable car. I've been doing quite a bit of changes to the CE car and it seems that with each and every change it just keeps getting better and better. One of the easiest things that I've done is change the front Camber link to the outside of the front bulkhead and on the outside of the front C block w/the same spacers. Wow!!!! The car is so much more responsive now. And the rear of the car seems to rotate a heck of a lot better.
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Old 04-23-2016, 09:21 PM
  #2816  
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Made a few more changes to my de and it is by far the best buggy I've ever driven. Forgiving and fast.
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Old 04-24-2016, 06:28 AM
  #2817  
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Do not run the 22 servo horn. You won't get full throw.

Run the protek clamping.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:56 AM
  #2818  
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Wanted to throw this out there regarding the small screws holding (not) the hinge pins in place. On a whim I purchased the screws below. The heads are ~.2mm wider than the ones supplied by Xray. They hold the pins as designed. Of course YMMV. I tried the washers as suggested in an earlier post but what I found was on the front corners of the A-arm, the front wheels would rub on the screws (with washers installed) at full throw as the screws were out too far. This is on my DE edition. Funny that my CE car does not have these issues.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...h-3100/p141759

Last edited by timannnn6; 04-24-2016 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 04-24-2016, 01:24 PM
  #2819  
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has anyone tried other bodies...makes/brands, to fit on this car without severe hacking required?


to post above, your link takes me to amainhobbies

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 04-24-2016 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 04-24-2016, 05:01 PM
  #2820  
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
has anyone tried other bodies...makes/brands, to fit on this car without severe hacking required?


to post above, your link takes me to amainhobbies
The xray has everything I want in a body including a super lightweight version. Haven't had a reason to venture out.
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