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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-15-2016, 09:58 AM   #2686
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Originally Posted by ogmudbum View Post
I had a 22 3.0, put it up for sale the same day I drove my xb2 ce for the first time. I run on high bite clay and the xb2ce is really good out of the box I loved it. The 22 3.0 is a nice car too but with my lack of knowledge on setup I never got it close to where my xb2 is. I had a 22-4 as well when i had my 22 3.0, just waiting on my xb4 16 to get here now. Personally I would switch, take that for what It's worth haha
yeah, i love my 3.0 but im thinking the xb2 is a better base for carpet, considering my 2wd is for carpet only
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:31 AM   #2687
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yeah, i love my 3.0 but im thinking the xb2 is a better base for carpet, considering my 2wd is for carpet only
My xb2 carpet on carpet was super dialed.
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:22 PM   #2688
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
My xb2 carpet on carpet was super dialed.
even stock?
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:36 PM   #2689
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Originally Posted by pickle311 View Post
Was trying to finish up my buggy last night and couldn't get any pinions to fit. The largest I could get on was a 32 tooth and it was too tight. I pulled the spur gear off and it had an 81t spur. I bought the car used from someone, wasn't expecting that to happen. The car only had 1 race day on it. Oh well, hopefully the hobby shop at the track will have a 75t in stock so I can race it Saturday.
They just posted.. they do have the 75t xray spur gear in stock.. so.. your good to go..
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:55 PM   #2690
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even stock?
Bone stock with an exotek slipper eliminator. Went to kyosho springs and it was even better.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:02 PM   #2691
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
After a few nights I'm having some solid results with my xb2 carpet edition on clay. It will traction roll if you land wrong and does not tolerate over driving.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
I know it's only 17.5 but that's a pretty aggressive setup for clay. I would try stiffer springs and/or less camber to help it with traction rolling. It may sound crazy, but I find 1 or 2mm more under the inner front camber link can balance out a buggy with soft rear suspension and allow me to push harder through fast sweepers without traction rolling.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:03 PM   #2692
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Has anyone got anything to say about the dirt edition version ??? Is it amazing or just make the carpet one work on loose dirt
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:03 PM   #2693
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Originally Posted by Saturn V View Post
I know it's only 17.5 but that's a pretty aggressive setup for clay. I would try stiffer springs and/or less camber to help it with traction rolling. It may sound crazy, but I find 1 or 2mm more under the inner front camber link can balance out a buggy with soft rear suspension and allow me to push harder through fast sweepers without traction rolling.
Stiffer springs caused it to traction roll even faster.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:08 PM   #2694
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Originally Posted by jake alton View Post
I'm running the slipper eliminator with the ball diff. If their was an issue it should have showed up by now. ball diff thrust bearings are the root to binding. The diff balls are not under the same amount of pressure. That's why most use ceramic thrusts bearing so more pressure can be applied and the ceramics love the pressure. Most importantly. The binding is at the thrust bearing.
I replaced the factory thrust assembly with a used Schumacher one and it did smooth the diff out. Didn't help with the binding.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:13 PM   #2695
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Originally Posted by Rc4life1978 View Post
Has anyone got anything to say about the dirt edition version ??? Is it amazing or just make the carpet one work on loose dirt
i will know more this weekend.. i converted my carpet to a dirt edition.. i will post up after this weekend..
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:17 PM   #2696
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i will know more this weekend.. i converted my carpet to a dirt edition.. i will post up after this weekend..
I'm doing the same thing tonight actually.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:22 PM   #2697
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Cool thanks.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:23 PM   #2698
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Has anyone got anything to say about the dirt edition version ??? Is it amazing or just make the carpet one work on loose dirt
The dirt car is really good on loose dirt. Setup was pretty easy to figure out.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:47 PM   #2699
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Socket posted his setup a few pages back. Worth looking at!
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:56 PM   #2700
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My dirt edition is very good on clay track.
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